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Darting a RLBL dress shirt?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by ramuman, Sep 22, 2009.

  1. ramuman

    ramuman Senior member

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    I have a couple of RLBL dress shirts and would like to slim them down. One of them, I got darted, but it just doesn't look right with the two small pleats.

    Should I just go ahead and get them taken in from the side?

    Problem is my tailor charges $40 per shirt to take them in from the side through the armhole. I've heard lesser tailors charge $20-30, but this is from what SF (and I) consider Atlanta's best tailor.
     
  2. jamesbond

    jamesbond Senior member

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    Its a toss up for me, darts can work fine if the shirt fits pretty well and it just the swall of the back thats too baggey. If the whole shirt, arm holes, sleeves, etc. are too baggey then go for the whole thing being taken apart. $40 is actually a pretty standard price for this alteration. I know tailors that won't even do it because its such a pain in the ass. I would definitely want a competent tailor doing such a job.

    BTW, I have had great success with this type of alteration. Some of the shirts have come back fitting much better then my bespoke shirts. Just don't go too tight in the chest area or you will regret it.

    Good luck.
     
  3. ramuman

    ramuman Senior member

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    It is basically just the small of my back. However, I just don't like the look of darts on a more formal shirt (even those these would be solid colors), especially with the small pleats on the RLBL.
     
  4. jamesbond

    jamesbond Senior member

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    It is basically just the small of my back. However, I just don't like the look of darts on a more formal shirt (even those these would be solid colors), especially with the small pleats on the RLBL.

    Hmm, when i have had mine done they usually put the darts in right below the pleats so it makes a continuous line? I don't like darts either but sometimes if the shirt is slim enough it just doesn't make sense to rip it all apart, it can easily come back too slim and then your screwed.
     
  5. embowafa

    embowafa Senior member

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    darting RLBL? You must be skinny.
     
  6. ramuman

    ramuman Senior member

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    darting RLBL? You must be skinny.

    Quite so. I'm a 38 chest, 30 waist. This would be on a 14.5 RLBL too.
     
  7. MatthewN

    MatthewN Well-Known Member

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    darting RLBL? You must be skinny.
    I have a 35" chest and 29" waist. I was thinking of picking up a RLBL shirt from B&S recently, and I compared the measurements provided with a TM Lewin slim fit shirt I already had. The RLBL was bigger, and even the TM Lewin has some extra room around the waist. At least it was within an acceptable margin, though; the RLPL shirt I really wanted would have had me swimming in it. The problem is that my neck is 15", and it seems that the typical 15"-necked man is a little more beefy than I. I need to start lifting weights or something.
     
  8. embowafa

    embowafa Senior member

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    Quite so. I'm a 38 chest, 30 waist. This would be on a 14.5 RLBL too.

    I think not darting your shirt is always optimal. It just looks cleaner.

    Then again, I'm wearing a darted (via alterations) shirt right now. No one will see the back because I'm wearing a jacket. If you do get it darted, I wouldn't wear it w/out jacket or sweater, IMO.
     
  9. jamesbond

    jamesbond Senior member

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    darting RLBL? You must be skinny.

    There actually cut quite roomey, just like most rtw shirts. The only thing is that RLBL sleeves tend to be a bit slimmer then RLPL but other then that there still pretty big. Do you like your shirts on the fuller side?
     
  10. Wes Bourne

    Wes Bourne Senior member

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    I have a couple of RLBL dress shirts and would like to slim them down. One of them, I got darted, but it just doesn't look right with the two small pleats.

    Should I just go ahead and get them taken in from the side?


    Hmm, when i have had mine done they usually put the darts in right below the pleats so it makes a continuous line? I don't like darts either but sometimes if the shirt is slim enough it just doesn't make sense to rip it all apart, it can easily come back too slim and then your screwed.

    Imo, shoulder pleats + darts just looks weird.

    darting RLBL? You must be skinny.

    Quite so. I'm a 38 chest, 30 waist. This would be on a 14.5 RLBL too.

    Strange, I'm a 36 chest/31 waist and find a 14.5 RLBL shirt to be quite as is. The only alteration I'd consider is shortening the sleeves.
     
  11. embowafa

    embowafa Senior member

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    There actually cut quite roomey, just like most rtw shirts. The only thing is that RLBL sleeves tend to be a bit slimmer then RLPL but other then that there still pretty big. Do you like your shirts on the fuller side?

    Not at all, actually. I have quite a few RLBL (15-15.5) and they fit me just about perfectly. I'm 6'2" but definitely on the 'skinny' side.

    It's the RLPL shirts that I have to get taken in. The neck always fits perfectly, but the sleeves and body are generally too baggy. Getting the sleeves and body (from the sides) taken in make them perfect.
     
  12. ramuman

    ramuman Senior member

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    Undarted, I swim even in the 14.5. I have a very V-shaped torso and fairly broad shoulders.

    I wonder if the pleat crease itself could be extended down as the dart to be cleaner. The shirts I am considering getting altered would generally be worn with a jacket, but I still dislike the unclean look of darts+pleat.
     
  13. IBJanky

    IBJanky Senior member

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    I get pretty much all my dress shirts darted.

    Matter of fact, just dropped off a RLPL shirt at my tailor's to get taken in and darted.

    myke
     
  14. hitokiri8

    hitokiri8 Senior member

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    Not sure if it will still fit after you do this to a RLBL, but for my RLPL shirts that are less formal (like a button down), my tailor will open up the back pleats and dart the shirt from there, eliminating the back pleats. Looks much better IMO than darts + pleats.
     
  15. ranker

    ranker Senior member

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    Darting is ugly/cheaper option in my opinion. I'd only dart if you can't afford to have it taken in from the side. Taking it in from the sides is a full scale operation for my shirts since I often have the sleeves slimmed and the length shortened to balance the shirt as well. However, in the end its well worth the expensive as the shirts come out looking fantastic as if they were bespoke. Hell my RLPL shirts fit/look better than some of my T&A shirts I had done.

    I used to buy RLBL shirts just because they were slimmer but even then found that they weren't as fitting as I'd like. The only shirt that fits me perfectly OTR are Emporio Armani's. However, they don't make many FC shirts. Therefore, I now purchase RLPL FC shirts and have them taken in from the sides. Not only are they better fitting now than OTR RLBL's but the construction/materials used are better.

    Since I often drop off 10+ shirts every few weeks, I get a discount from my tailor. He charges me $45 to take the shirts in from the sides, slim the sleeves, shorten the sleeves by an 1", and shorten the length of the shirt. Normally he charges about $60 for all of that work.

    TL;DR. If RLBL doesn't fit you perfectly OTR, buy RLPL and get it taken in from the sides. You'll end up with a better shirt at the same cost. It's an expensive lesson I learned as I now have many RLBL shirts I don't wear.
     
  16. sho'nuff

    sho'nuff Senior member

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    dude, rlbl shirts are slim enough, do you want them to look literally like a triangle silhouette?
     
  17. ramuman

    ramuman Senior member

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    dude, rlbl shirts are slim enough, do you want them to look literally like a triangle silhouette?

    No, I want them to fit my body. If I have an 8" or 9" drop and the shirt doesn't follow that, what should I do with it?
     
  18. CTGuy

    CTGuy Senior member

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    I have seen some shirts with front darts and I really do not like that look. Rear darts don't really bother me if the shirt is solid colored, but I saw a guy wearing a patterned sport shirt with rear darts on the T the other weekend and I couldn't help thinking how feminine the shirt looked.
     
  19. sho'nuff

    sho'nuff Senior member

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    No, I want them to fit my body. If I have an 8" or 9" drop and the shirt doesn't follow that, what should I do with it?

    i dont think a shirt has to follow your line exactly or even need to be as tapered as your body (congratulations to you btw) i have seen many a guy wear a dress shirt not billowy but standard classic fits (not slim) where it still looks actually pretty good. i am seeing more and more the classic fit (less waist suppression) being more of a better look than the ultra slim or tapered /too tailored look in men's clothing.
    i wouldnt go altering a shirt that needs to be taken in more than 2 inches , i would go with a more made to measure shirt.
    i recommend going to kent wang, i have seen a couple of his dress shirts on a guy here who works on occasion with me, the dress shirt is made very well. the fit is absolutely a hit. only 100 bux i think. kent wang is an affililate here
     
  20. ramuman

    ramuman Senior member

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    i dont think a shirt has to follow your line exactly or even need to be as tapered as your body (congratulations to you btw) i have seen many a guy wear a dress shirt not billowy but standard classic fits (not slim) where it still looks actually pretty good. i am seeing more and more the classic fit (less waist suppression) being more of a better look than the ultra slim or tapered /too tailored look in men's clothing.
    i wouldnt go altering a shirt that needs to be taken in more than 2 inches , i would go with a more made to measure shirt.
    i recommend going to kent wang, i have seen a couple of his dress shirts on a guy here who works on occasion with me, the dress shirt is made very well. the fit is absolutely a hit. only 100 bux i think. kent wang is an affililate here


    I think the main problem is I don't like excess fabric around my waist and lower back. That gives an unclean look when the shirt is tucked in.

    I have considered Kent Wang shirts as well as the online MTM guys, but judging from the pics I've seen posted, the first try rarely nails it. Before that I might try a local MTM or bespoke shirt though.
     

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