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Waist suppression limited for side vent jackets (PICS)?

up1bin

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I just received my M. Valentino suit from Jeff at Wizard of Ahhs (36S, notch lapel, 2 buttons, side vents) and promptly took it to my tailor. I was advised that although it is a very nice suit, I should return it because he could not suppress the waist properly. The reasons were:

1. He could not take in the side seams because it is a side vent suit and the seam and **** lines wouldn't match.

2. He couldn't take much from the center seam because the vents would start pulling away causing a gap.

Are these true? I was unaware of how limited waist suppression could be on a side vent jacket. I thought SF members regularly take in the side seams on side vent jackets??? I'd appreciate any advice/comments. Thanks!

EDIT: Didn't think to take photos of the fit until now. There seems to be excess fabric on the back of this jacket! Can this suit be altered or is it just too large? The fit seems fine on the shoulders/chest.



 

TomW

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BS.. I regularly have it done with perfect results. Time to find a tailor that actually knows his trade.

Now that you've posted pictures.. I'd send it back to Jeff and size down... it's too big in the chest and shoulders as others have noted.
 

up1bin

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Ok, so it seems like either my tailor doesn't really know what he's doing OR doesn't want to mess with the extra work of possibly taking in 3 seams (2 sides and center)...

Do you guys usually take in all 3 seams when suppressing side vent jackets or just the sides? I suppose it depends on the initial fit, but if/when I find a tailor who can do this job, I'd like to be informed enough to know if he's trying to take short cuts.

On a side note, any suggestions on a good tailor in the North Jersey / NYC area?

Thanks for all your comments so far!
 

alliswell

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How does the coat fit on your chest and shoulders? If it fits well there, you should only need side seams opened. I can recommend Flormont Tailors, 212 255 2549, 17th and Broadway.
 

obiter dictum

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I've had a side vented jacket suppressed in the waist without any problems. You should ask a different tailor for a second opinion, IMO.
 

TC (Houston)

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Did your tailor happen to mention that the jacket is at least one full size too big? From the pics that's what I'm thinking. Working from a better starting fit in the shoulders and chest, you will have much better results with the tailoring.
 

JayJay

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My tailor remakes the side vents when he adds waist suppression to my jackets. I have this done routinely on all the jackets I purchase.
 

Despos

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From the back view, if you fit the waist to your size and not narrow the shoulders and blades you will look like frankenstein or even worse. Jacket is not close enough to your size or proportion to fool with.
 

soupcxan

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That jacket is definitely a size too big, but you're sure it's a 36S? You must weigh <100 lbs.
 

voxsartoria

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v2008-09.gif


- B
 

up1bin

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I'm 5'8" and ~145lbs. Usually 36 suits are somewhat snug across the chest/shoulders but I can't jump to a 38 because my waist is barely a 30" and supposedly a recut is needed on a 32" pant.

Not sure why this M. Valentino 36 is larger than other 36's I own... I thought it was supposed to be a slim fitting suit?
 

Coburn

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Originally Posted by up1bin
I just received my M. Valentino suit from Jeff at Wizard of Ahhs (36S, notch lapel, 2 buttons, side vents) and promptly took it to my tailor. I was advised that although it is a very nice suit, I should return it because he could not suppress the waist properly. The reasons were:

1. He could not take in the side seams because it is a side vent suit and the seam and **** lines wouldn't match.

2. He couldn't take much from the center seam because the vents would start pulling away causing a gap.

Are these true? I was unaware of how limited waist suppression could be on a side vent jacket. I thought SF members regularly take in the side seams on side vent jackets??? I'd appreciate any advice/comments. Thanks!

EDIT: Didn't think to take photos of the fit until now. There seems to be excess fabric on the back of this jacket! Can this suit be altered or is it just too large? The fit seems fine on the shoulders/chest.


I suspect the tailor realized the suit is one size to big.
He knew waist suppression will
not fix the primary problem so he invented an excuse to avoid taking the fall for a suit that cannot be fixed.
 

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