superfans124
Senior Member
- Joined
- Jun 2, 2009
- Messages
- 311
- Reaction score
- 0
after posing and having these pictures taken, I'm really confused of what to think and say of my understanding of dressing suits, I thought I had gotten better along the way, but now I can't say so certain. unlike mr.spiffy, I'm not sure about the way I dress, so please chip in, and all comments are appreciated, if you can also post illustration as references, if would be even more superb.
first of, I'm 27, 6'2-3, really slender build, 160 lbs-ish. At my age and income level (also matureity level), I prioritize "look" more than anything else (work and material quality, details, etc).
The black pinstripe in the first pictures is the end result of my learning curve. It is my 2nd suit bought a few years ago for my 1st real job, a way overpriced tommy hilfiger for $500-something, and took it to a shaitty tailor recommended by TH staff at georgetown, DC., paid additionally overpriced $200 to have it tailored (double ouch!). Since I didn't know better, I couldn't quite pin point what I felt off and what I wanted exactly, so when I came to HK then China, I found a shanghai tailor who's much cheaper and more knowledgable (and eager to listen), he showed me how the first tailor butchered the suit (pucked shoulders that needed rotation, damaged fabric and half-assed work quality where untrained eyes wouldn't pay attention to), at that point I said "F it" and decided to use that suit as a lab rat to create a look I "vaguely" knew that I wanted.
The suit has undergone through some severe alteration: one thing the shoulders have been altered to fit me better (according to most on SF, shoulder alteration is severe enough by itself I believe), and serious waist suppresion. the sleeve length in the 1st picture looks short than it really is in reality for some reason. waist doesn't look severely suppressed in the frontal view, but from the back and side, you can see. when I pull my arms forward (in the side view pic), the back really hugs my curve. This is something I'm not sure about: whether have I gone beyond the limit, or am I being a little bit progressive? I thought since suits are about "fit", if the back hugs me, it's not against the principle. but does the back look too tight (from the back view), do I have absolutely TOO MUCH ripple (upper back and lower back)? on a side note, what could be done to bring this suit look "better"?
and then it comes the space suit, bought this versace knowing I won't find any appropriate occasion to wear, but against my better judgement I bought it at deep discount. anyways I purchased it, and this is how it looks on me right now, I'm not satisfied with the look, I want it to look more like I'm wearing a versace (I know the way I put it sounds very deutschy). I think there's room for alteration, except this time I want to be more knowledgable and cautious than the last time.
(pics 4-6 are the versace, and note the shirt has gone sideways) sleeves are long that I can tell, I also feel the shoulders aren't perfect fit, I think the TH shoulders fit me better from the pictures. let's say if we are not concerned about pucked shoulder seams, does TH have a better shoulder fit? another aspect I'd like to see more is the suit hugging my torso, to create more space between my arms and body (and maybe to enhance the look with more flair on the skirts), I can accept some radiating ripples from the tied suit button. I've tried to achieve it on the TH, but the back looks like it's already at its absolute peak of tightness yet the front doesn't look close enough to what I wanted, what am I missing?
one of my fundamental questions is: have I butched my suits by altering them too much? since I never had the financial means to shop really highend suit shops, I've never encountered a suit that looks "just right" on me OTR, even RTW highend labels (like this versace), so I thought either I have to do severe alteration or go full bespoke. the high cost of tailor alteration in the States might be one primary reason why people are against excessive tailoring (only my guess), so since now I'm in Asia and it's cheaper here, I can experiment as much as I want, is this view wrong?
another perspective crashing lesson came from these pictures. I suddenly realized what I normally view myself is drastically different from what an average person view me. the way I see myself from a 6'2 view angle is pretty neat, but from an eye level of a regular height person, I look really flat and shapeless (as in these pictures). "what I see myself" and "what others see myself", how do you more experienced dressers adjust to this perspective dilemma?
all in all, I hope these learning curves all goes to the bank, and pay off eventually when I get my first bespoke suit that I'm planning on getting later this year in HK.
thank you all very much for spending the time going through my problems.
first of, I'm 27, 6'2-3, really slender build, 160 lbs-ish. At my age and income level (also matureity level), I prioritize "look" more than anything else (work and material quality, details, etc).
The black pinstripe in the first pictures is the end result of my learning curve. It is my 2nd suit bought a few years ago for my 1st real job, a way overpriced tommy hilfiger for $500-something, and took it to a shaitty tailor recommended by TH staff at georgetown, DC., paid additionally overpriced $200 to have it tailored (double ouch!). Since I didn't know better, I couldn't quite pin point what I felt off and what I wanted exactly, so when I came to HK then China, I found a shanghai tailor who's much cheaper and more knowledgable (and eager to listen), he showed me how the first tailor butchered the suit (pucked shoulders that needed rotation, damaged fabric and half-assed work quality where untrained eyes wouldn't pay attention to), at that point I said "F it" and decided to use that suit as a lab rat to create a look I "vaguely" knew that I wanted.
The suit has undergone through some severe alteration: one thing the shoulders have been altered to fit me better (according to most on SF, shoulder alteration is severe enough by itself I believe), and serious waist suppresion. the sleeve length in the 1st picture looks short than it really is in reality for some reason. waist doesn't look severely suppressed in the frontal view, but from the back and side, you can see. when I pull my arms forward (in the side view pic), the back really hugs my curve. This is something I'm not sure about: whether have I gone beyond the limit, or am I being a little bit progressive? I thought since suits are about "fit", if the back hugs me, it's not against the principle. but does the back look too tight (from the back view), do I have absolutely TOO MUCH ripple (upper back and lower back)? on a side note, what could be done to bring this suit look "better"?
and then it comes the space suit, bought this versace knowing I won't find any appropriate occasion to wear, but against my better judgement I bought it at deep discount. anyways I purchased it, and this is how it looks on me right now, I'm not satisfied with the look, I want it to look more like I'm wearing a versace (I know the way I put it sounds very deutschy). I think there's room for alteration, except this time I want to be more knowledgable and cautious than the last time.
(pics 4-6 are the versace, and note the shirt has gone sideways) sleeves are long that I can tell, I also feel the shoulders aren't perfect fit, I think the TH shoulders fit me better from the pictures. let's say if we are not concerned about pucked shoulder seams, does TH have a better shoulder fit? another aspect I'd like to see more is the suit hugging my torso, to create more space between my arms and body (and maybe to enhance the look with more flair on the skirts), I can accept some radiating ripples from the tied suit button. I've tried to achieve it on the TH, but the back looks like it's already at its absolute peak of tightness yet the front doesn't look close enough to what I wanted, what am I missing?
one of my fundamental questions is: have I butched my suits by altering them too much? since I never had the financial means to shop really highend suit shops, I've never encountered a suit that looks "just right" on me OTR, even RTW highend labels (like this versace), so I thought either I have to do severe alteration or go full bespoke. the high cost of tailor alteration in the States might be one primary reason why people are against excessive tailoring (only my guess), so since now I'm in Asia and it's cheaper here, I can experiment as much as I want, is this view wrong?
another perspective crashing lesson came from these pictures. I suddenly realized what I normally view myself is drastically different from what an average person view me. the way I see myself from a 6'2 view angle is pretty neat, but from an eye level of a regular height person, I look really flat and shapeless (as in these pictures). "what I see myself" and "what others see myself", how do you more experienced dressers adjust to this perspective dilemma?
all in all, I hope these learning curves all goes to the bank, and pay off eventually when I get my first bespoke suit that I'm planning on getting later this year in HK.
thank you all very much for spending the time going through my problems.