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Lapel Button-hole Style??

woolymammoth

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Referring to the enclosed picture...is one style of lapel button-hole more common on custom jackets over the other? Comments appreciated...thank you.

bh-b.jpg
 

Film Noir Buff

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The tear drop boutonniere on Mafoofan's jacket can only be done nicely by hand. Nino Corvato uses these unless instructed otherwise (And only two customers have ever asked him to do it otherwise) because he feels it is both an elegant and custom look.

The other ones are fine but obviously more common.

Interestingly enough, I just picked up a DB suit from Corvato and it had straight lapel button holes.
 

voxsartoria

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The American Living line at J.C. Penny has keyhole/teardrop lapel buttonholes, as do many high value brands other than Rubinacci or Corvato.

I think that you have to cut your own hole through the embroidery if you want to put a flower in...and it is a rare American Living model that has a keeper. It's not hard, though, to sew this on yourself.

Another brand that has keyhole/teardrop lapel buttonholes is Merona, which Target carries.


- B
 

Manton

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This has always been my favorite forum controversy. Truly the Bigendian / Littleendian dispute of our time.

Savile Row, I am sorry to say to you keyholers, considers anything but a straight cut buttonhole on a lapel to be absolutely the surest sign of a cheap suit. Probably because, in the UK, that is what cheap suits have. There is no tradition of a nicely shaped, handmade, teardrop buttonhole on the lapel of fine suit over there.

Also, there is an important distinction to be made here. A keyhole buttonhole is cut with a punch and looks absolutely regular in shape, like a lollipop. These really do look terrible, IMO.

A teardrop buttonhole is cut by hand and the wider end is irregular and smaller than the hole in a keyhole buttonhole. These don't look so bad to me, though I still prefer straight.

Also, the Neapolitan teardrop buttonhole tends to be very short, whereas the Savile Row straight buttonhole is quite long. A&S makes theirs 1 1/8" and calls them "Carnation buttonholes."
 

woolymammoth

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May I ask what is the difference between a teardrop buttonhole and a keyhole buttonhole...pictures would be great...thank you.
 

TheFoo

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Originally Posted by woolymammoth
May I ask what is the difference between a teardrop buttonhole and a keyhole buttonhole...pictures would be great...thank you.

Not to be mean, but did you see 'teardrop' and 'keyhole', then ignore all the sentence around them?
 

Manton

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Keyhole:

keyhole2.jpg


This was cut with a punch, essentially a cookie cutter. Notice how perfectly round the wide end is, especially where it meets the longer portion of the buttonhole. Human hands cannot cut that shape so perfectly evenly.

This is a teardrop:

teardroplapel.jpg


It was cut by hand using very small scissors. The shape is more uneven, less perfectly round. You can see this especially where the open end meets the closed part.

Or, just think of the difference between a teardrop shape and lollipop shape. The latter is like this:

---o

The fomer is more like this:

--<l
 

woolymammoth

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Originally Posted by Manton
Keyhole:

keyhole2.jpg


This was cut with a punch, essentially a cookie cutter. Notice how perfectly round the wide end is, especially where it meets the longer portion of the buttonhole. Human hands cannot cut that shape so perfectly evenly.

This is a teardrop:

teardroplapel.jpg


It was cut by hand using very small scissors. The shape is more uneven, less perfectly round. You can see this especially where the open end meets the closed part.

Or, just think of the difference between a teardrop shape and lollipop shape. The latter is like this:

---o

The fomer is more like this:

--<l


Thank you very much for your kind response...I appreciate the explanation and the pictures.
 

voxsartoria

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The American Living jackets from J. C. Penny have a teardrop, like this chino sportcoat (which is on sale for $39.99, nearly down to StyleForvm B&S territory...!)

In contrast, the Merona jackets from Target have the keyhole.

I think that both styles can work. The key thing is that each uses their natural style, just like bespoke English jackets using the straight hole.


- B
 

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