Your dream bespoke suit

[aeglus]

I'm about ready to get my first suit done up in a good English fabric, so I want to make sure I don't forget anything and screw something up like I did with the first two suits that I had made. I don't need to make the thread just about myself though, so let's hear it. If you are making your dream suit, what features would it have? What are the things you can't live without, and what new things would you like to try? Also, what purpose would your suit be for (casual, business, etc.)?

So far I think that I'd want on the jacket:
-four functional sleeve buttons
-a 3-roll-2 with slim notch lapels
-side vents with buttons to make it ventless
-an interesting lining (actually not sure since I might want this to be a summer-only suit, but inspired by LK's orange suit)
-flap pockets
-inside the flap pocket, have a smaller pocket for cell phone
-soft shoulders
-high arm holes
-close fit

For the trousers:
-flat front (no pleats)
-mid-atlantic cuff (I want people to be able to see the shoe but not quite my socks)
-side pockets made as double pockets, bit difficult to explain but keeps it from flaring the hips
-can't decide if it's better to have it be at the true waist or be more fashion forward and rest on the hips
-button fly, no zipper

Can't decide on the color exactly, but as it'll be mostly for summer with some use in spring and fall, I'm thinking mohair in a dark blue (not as dark as navy), a grayish-blue with some very subtle single-thread purple-lavender-purple stripes, or a dark blue with some subtle bright colors that only show when up close or hit with some light.

Also I'm short but an athletic build, so I'd like to make sure it will be a flattering cut.

Again, I'd love to hear of some things that aren't quite standard. I'll go in with my design next week, but I'd love to hear what you'd put into your suit, whatever the purpose.

 

[trex]

People here tend to favour not having belt loops on your trousers

 

[cheessus]

Can someone link me to LK's orange suit?

 

[radicaldog]

Buttons to close the side vents? Unnecessary and potentially disastrous, IMO.

 

[GBR]

Originally Posted by trex

People here tend to favour not having belt loops on your trousers

Not necessarily.

I certainly mix this, some with loops, others with braces, fish tail back and very high rise.

 

[instep]

Originally Posted by GBR

Not necessarily.

I certainly mix this, some with loops, others with braces, fish tail back and very high rise.
+1

Not sure where he got that impression from.

 

[DandySF]

Are you sure you don't want the cell phone pocket located within the jacket's interior? This location would better conceal it.

 

[aeglus]

Originally Posted by radicaldog

Buttons to close the side vents? Unnecessary and potentially disastrous, IMO.

It's about as unnecessary as functional sleeve buttons. They work fine on my single vent jacket, but I'd like to know what is potentially disastrous about it so that I can go ahead and drop the idea. Also not a fan of braces even though they work much better than a belt. For some reason when I put my cell phone in my interior pockets, either it sticks out and ruins the lines of the jacket, or it is too hard for me to reach quickly.

As I've said, this is the first time I'm going in to a place actually knowing what I should get, but I'd like to make sure I don't forget anything.

 

[instep]

Originally Posted by aeglus

It's about as unnecessary as functional sleeve buttons. They work fine on my single vent jacket, but I'd like to know what is potentially disastrous about it so that I can go ahead and drop the idea. Also not a fan of braces even though they work much better than a belt. For some reason when I put my cell phone in my interior pockets, either it sticks out and ruins the lines of the jacket, or it is too hard for me to reach quickly.

As I've said, this is the first time I'm going in to a place actually knowing what I should get, but I'd like to make sure I don't forget anything.
I'd imagine that when you sit down, there would always be 2 things digging into your behind. Also, the chance of the button pulling on the fabric as you're sitting seems a distinct possibility to me.

 

[radicaldog]

Originally Posted by instep

I'd imagine that when you sit down, there would always be 2 things digging into your behind. Also, the chance of the button pulling on the fabric as you're sitting seems a distinct possibility to me.

Indeed. And won't the vent gape open between buttons? And what do you need a ventless coat for anyway? Tuxedos/dinner suits call for no vents, but apart from that I'd say it's unnecessary. Maybe some DB, but I think you're doing a SB suit, no?

 

[lasbar]

Don't pick up some sartorial obssessions from others Sfers...
Pick a silhouette you like ,a great fabric and a very good tailor , they're the most important point and the rest are gimmicks...
Are you going for a notch lapel ,peak lapel,Tautz lapel?
Is it a sb or a db?
Straight pockets ,hacking pocket ,Ticket pocket?

 

[aeglus]

Doubting I'd ever really close the vents, just a small detail that I liked from one of the suits I picked up off the rack. There's no gap and it works just as it should on the suit I have that has it, but I never actually button it up.

It's just going to be a simple SB, notch lapel, no ticket pocket (don't feel I'm tall enough to make it work well), and haven't quite decided yet if I'll do straight or hacking pockets. Someone brought up a good point to me somewhere else though. Forgot that summer is hot as hell so it might be a good idea to only do half or quarter lining. Actually, do you think height really matters much on ticket pockets?

 

[GBR]

Much of the styling is for you to decide no one can do so here. However the detail is for and you have most of it I think though clearly there are alternatives.

You don't mention inside jacket pockets - size and position bearing in mind you are NOT restricted to the standard offerings

For the trousers again back pockets, button and hole or flap, one , two or even no pockets. Front waistband fob pocket size etc or not at all. Indeed this can be outside at the waist band or inside at the top of it.

There are also various forms for the back and side adjusters of the trousers and the profile merits thought.

 

[aeglus]

Originally Posted by GBR

Much of the styling is for you to decide no one can do so here. However the detail is for and you have most of it I think though clearly there are alternatives.

You don't mention inside jacket pockets - size and position bearing in mind you are NOT restricted to the standard offerings

For the trousers again back pockets, button and hole or flap, one , two or even no pockets. Front waistband fob pocket size etc or not at all. Indeed this can be outside at the waist band or inside at the top of it.

There are also various forms for the back and side adjusters of the trousers and the profile merits thought.

Thanks, these are the kinds of things that are often overlooked and I'm glad that you brought them up to think about.

 

[JibranK]

Agreed. Belts are ugly and interrupt the line of the suit.