Winter Tweed - where to shop?

[Knick from NY]

Hi all,

Last winter I had a very heavy harris tweed sport coat made at Martin Greenfield, plain weave in navy blue with bits of burgundy three roll 2, side vents and patch pockets. It's a cold weather jacket roomy enough that I wear with Jeans over a warm sweater and boots with a drake's scarf. Love the jacket though should have had it a bit shorter. I am looking to buy OTR or MTM something similar in a different color but that will go with all the same stuff, leaning towards grey to keep it as versatile as possible.

I didnt know of JPress until I happened upon the store after a trip through Paul Stuart where I never actually buy anything. Looking online and I came across this, love this fabric but no idea about their quality or fit except that it's OG Trad and I've read boxy & formless. Love this fabric here: https://jpressonline.com/collection...sport-coat-classic-fit?variant=32318808490031

Looking for opinions ordering from there or somewhere similar. Final option would be back to MG or if someone might suggest another MTM in NYC that does tweed well while keeping it at or under the $1250 I paid at MG.

I see Jpress offers MTM at $1295, anyone tried them? It says US made, any idea who?

thanks all

KFNY

 

[FlyingHorker]

How about this?

Bottoli - Light Gray Donegal

Spier & Mackay

www.spierandmackay.com

Though I don't think it would be as heavy as harris tweed.

 

[TheShetlandSweater]

Hi all,

Last winter I had a very heavy harris tweed sport coat made at Martin Greenfield, plain weave in navy blue with bits of burgundy three roll 2, side vents and patch pockets. It's a cold weather jacket roomy enough that I wear with Jeans over a warm sweater and boots with a drake's scarf. Love the jacket though should have had it a bit shorter. I am looking to buy OTR or MTM something similar in a different color but that will go with all the same stuff, leaning towards grey to keep it as versatile as possible.

I didnt know of JPress until I happened upon the store after a trip through Paul Stuart where I never actually buy anything. Looking online and I came across this, love this fabric but no idea about their quality or fit except that it's OG Trad and I've read boxy & formless. Love this fabric here: https://jpressonline.com/collection...sport-coat-classic-fit?variant=32318808490031

Looking for opinions ordering from there or somewhere similar. Final option would be back to MG or if someone might suggest another MTM in NYC that does tweed well while keeping it at or under the $1250 I paid at MG.

I see Jpress offers MTM at $1295, anyone tried them? It says US made, any idea who?

thanks all

KFNY

If you like the sack cut, O'Connell's has a bunch of tweeds. Some of the Southwick ones in particular look nice (I have heard good things about the Douglas and Cambridge models, but I am not sure they stock the latter). I don't know what weight their tweeds are, though. Ben Silver also has a more traditional cut, but their tweeds tend to be on the lighter side. In the past, Berg & Berg has stocked heavier tweeds, though--like the other makers--I can't vouch for the quality as I have no experience with their tailoring. I got an Orazio in a heavier Harris Tweed from Michael Jondral a couple of years ago that I really like. I don't know what they'll have this year. I like the Armoury's stuff, but they don't appear to have any heavier tweeds. A lot of people on this forum like Spier and Mackay. I have no experience with them, but it looks like if you go MTM with them, they stock a bunch of Harris Tweeds. J. Press is apparently very mixed. They have historically had problems with their shoulders, but maybe they have resolved these problems. I would be sure to try on in-person before deciding. A lot of stores won't have their full winter selection in stock yet, so you might want to wait a few weeks before making a move.

 

[Knick from NY]

How about this?

Bottoli - Light Gray Donegal

Spier & Mackay

www.spierandmackay.com

Though I don't think it would be as heavy as harris tweed.

If you like the sack cut, O'Connell's has a bunch of tweeds. Some of the Southwick ones in particular look nice (I have heard good things about the Douglas and Cambridge models, but I am not sure they stock the latter). I don't know what weight their tweeds are, though. Ben Silver also has a more traditional cut, but their tweeds tend to be on the lighter side. In the past, Berg & Berg has stocked heavier tweeds, though--like the other makers--I can't vouch for the quality as I have no experience with their tailoring. I got an Orazio in a heavier Harris Tweed from Michael Jondral a couple of years ago that I really like. I don't know what they'll have this year. I like the Armoury's stuff, but they don't appear to have any heavier tweeds. A lot of people on this forum like Spier and Mackay. I have no experience with them, but it looks like if you go MTM with them, they stock a bunch of Harris Tweeds. J. Press is apparently very mixed. They have historically had problems with their shoulders, but maybe they have resolved these problems. I would be sure to try on in-person before deciding. A lot of stores won't have their full winter selection in stock yet, so you might want to wait a few weeks before making a move.

I dont necessarily like the sack cut, just need room in the jacket for a sweater. I msg'd jpress to see if the store or the MTM are open. I checked out O'Connels and they had a jacket with similar fabric but I liked the Jpress better. I'd opt for the more fitted version so long as there's room for layers beneath. Could always go back to MG.

 

[johng70]

If you want a huge selection of tweed patterns and don't mind importing and doing local tailoring, I'm a big fan of Bookster Tailoring in UK. The only challenge with sport coats is theirs are real cuff buttons so if you need sleeves shortened more than a fraction, that's a big deal. You can specify exact lengths if you know them so that isn't an issue.

 

[TheShetlandSweater]

I dont necessarily like the sack cut, just need room in the jacket for a sweater. I msg'd jpress to see if the store or the MTM are open. I checked out O'Connels and they had a jacket with similar fabric but I liked the Jpress better. I'd opt for the more fitted version so long as there's room for layers beneath. Could always go back to MG.

You were just mentioning J. Press and they do the sack cut--that is why I mentioned it. O'Connell's pictures tend to be of poor quality, so I would keep that it mind. I mentioned them because they probably have the biggest stock of tweed and because Southwick has a good reputation. FWIW, I believe the nicer stuff at J. Press is Southwick, so they are pretty similar (I believe O'Connell's is cheaper).

A lot of the more popular places to get tailoring these days don't offer heavier tweeds rtw for whatever reason. That is another reason why I was mentioning more traditional clothiers. If you are willing to do MTO or MTM, I strongly recommend the Armoury. Their model 3 is very nice.

 

[Knick from NY]

You were just mentioning J. Press and they do the sack cut--that is why I mentioned it. O'Connell's pictures tend to be of poor quality, so I would keep that it mind. I mentioned them because they probably have the biggest stock of tweed and because Southwick has a good reputation. FWIW, I believe the nicer stuff at J. Press is Southwick, so they are pretty similar (I believe O'Connell's is cheaper).

A lot of the more popular places to get tailoring these days don't offer heavier tweeds rtw for whatever reason. That is another reason why I was mentioning more traditional clothiers. If you are willing to do MTO or MTM, I strongly recommend the Armoury. Their model 3 is very nice.

Thank you. The sack cut does makes sense if I'm not there in person, otherwise I'd be guessing at a size that will accomodate the layers. I'll check out the Armoury. Greenfield had an overwhelming amount of fabrics to choose from and it's got some shape to it as I brought layers with me to the fitting.

This looks pretty great tho: https://oconnellsclothing.com/tailo...with-red-blue-yellow-oc029-hd509-e6-hb1a.html

 

[Camerashy]

Is this of interest

Edward Jacket

For those who love the classic gent style, you will be happy to know the Edward suit cut was inspired by none other than King Edward VIII - a sharp dresser who never looked anything but chic.

www.walkerslater.com

 

[Knick from NY]

Is this of interest

Edward Jacket

For those who love the classic gent style, you will be happy to know the Edward suit cut was inspired by none other than King Edward VIII - a sharp dresser who never looked anything but chic.

www.walkerslater.com

That is a great jacket, but would need to try in person to size it with right for wearing over layers. Love that cut but with the fabricin the Southwick on Oconnels which I linked.

 

[TheShetlandSweater]

Thank you. The sack cut does makes sense if I'm not there in person, otherwise I'd be guessing at a size that will accomodate the layers. I'll check out the Armoury. Greenfield had an overwhelming amount of fabrics to choose from and it's got some shape to it as I brought layers with me to the fitting.

This looks pretty great tho: https://oconnellsclothing.com/tailo...with-red-blue-yellow-oc029-hd509-e6-hb1a.html

To be clear, I am not trying to push the sack cut in particular (I mainly wear Neapolitan or Neapolitan inspired tailoring). It's just that you'll find more rtw heavy tweeds in the sack cut and you were already consider J. Press. Other things might fit just fine. The sack cut is not necessarily any easier to fit except in the waist.

That said, I think the sack is underrated, especially for a more athletic body type. Here are a couple of examples.

 

[FlyingHorker]

Based on the way he's standing with his arms, this makes him look like a pear, I don't find that desirable.

I'd say the main benefit of undarted cuts is they don't mess up the pattern on jackets like this.

 

[comrade]

Hi all,

Last winter I had a very heavy harris tweed sport coat made at Martin Greenfield, plain weave in navy blue with bits of burgundy three roll 2, side vents and patch pockets. It's a cold weather jacket roomy enough that I wear with Jeans over a warm sweater and boots with a drake's scarf. Love the jacket though should have had it a bit shorter. I am looking to buy OTR or MTM something similar in a different color but that will go with all the same stuff, leaning towards grey to keep it as versatile as possible.

I didnt know of JPress until I happened upon the store after a trip through Paul Stuart where I never actually buy anything. Looking online and I came across this, love this fabric but no idea about their quality or fit except that it's OG Trad and I've read boxy & formless. Love this fabric here: https://jpressonline.com/collection...sport-coat-classic-fit?variant=32318808490031

Looking for opinions ordering from there or somewhere similar. Final option would be back to MG or if someone might suggest another MTM in NYC that does tweed well while keeping it at or under the $1250 I paid at MG.

I see Jpress offers MTM at $1295, anyone tried them? It says US made, any idea who?

thanks all

KFNY

Looks boxy. Doesn't seem top have TRUE natural shoulders.
Press may be slipping again. Check out O'Donnells for huge selection.

If you are ever in Edinburgh Scotland Stewart Christie has heavy tweeds
in bespoke, MTM and RTW. Their MTM and RTW has those square shoulders
that Brits love. But I've seen their bespoke with natural shoulders.

Stewart Christie & Co - Bespoke Specialist Tailors, Edinburgh Scotland

Stewart Christie & Co, Edinburgh carry out bespoke tailoring to your exact specifications. Tweed and Scottish highland wear, menswear, ladieswear. 0131 225 6639.

www.stewartchristie.com

 

[comrade]

Based on the way he's standing with his arms, this makes him look like a pear, I don't find that desirable.

I'd say the main benefit of undarted cuts is they don't mess up the pattern on jackets like this.

Hardly a pear! That's Vic Sexias, Top Ten Tennis player and World War 2 bomber pilot,
now 97.

 

[comrade]

Hardly a pear! That's Vic Sexias, Top Ten Tennis player and World War 2 bomber pilot,
now 97.

 

[saskatoonjay]

I dont necessarily like the sack cut, just need room in the jacket for a sweater. I msg'd jpress to see if the store or the MTM are open. I checked out O'Connels and they had a jacket with similar fabric but I liked the Jpress better. I'd opt for the more fitted version so long as there's room for layers beneath. Could always go back to MG.

What you’re describing is exactly what Spier and MacKay do really well. Their contemporary fit has room and drape—and they offer a Neapolitan-inspired cut in fabrics from reputable mills: Moon, Fox Bros, Drago, Marling & Evans, Minnis. Fantastic MTO program with countless off-the-menu options. You’re making a mistake if you don’t investigate.

SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

Hello Everyone. We would like to formally introduce ourselves to the SF Community. We are SPIER & MACKAY (www.spierandmackay.com), a Toronto, Canada based menswear outfit that caters to both Off-the-Rack as well as Custom Tailoring Needs. We founded the company on the driving principle...

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