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which top tailor would have the most "militaristic" house style?

poseidon

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So after a few suits at WW Chan I think I have sort of figured out what kind of silhouette I want/am suited to; something that has strong shoulders, fuller chest, significant waist suppression, low button stance, and tapered sleeves/pants...and I am thinking of splurging on a tux from either savile row or one of the more well known italian tailors like caraceni, attolini, or cifonelli in paris, something that i can wear for a lifetime basically.

from the research that i've done it seems that huntsman/gieves hawkes have the most militaristic house styles on the row, is this correct? and maybe cifonelli in paris? whereas the italian tailors have much more natural shoulders? I take that "militaristic" would basically be the style that I've mentioned above?

Just wanted to check with everyone here who are far more experienced and knowledgeable than I to see if I am on the right track, and whether someone can point me down the right path if it is not the case, are there other houses that I should look at and possibly consider?

Thanks for everything!
 

aravenel

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"Italian" is awfully broad. Roman style, like Brioni, can have pretty strong shoulders and clean chests. However, the Naples-style manufacturers that so many on this forum like are the exact opposite of what you said you like.

If you really like classic British military cuts and can afford it, why not just go direct to the source? Huntsman is the classic, and Dege & Skinner is also well known for cutting that style suit.
 

Ich_Dien

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Welsh & Jefferies, Meyer & Mortimer, Dege, G&H, Huntsman...
 

Macallan

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Dege & Skinner

Although Gieves are military tailors, they do not have a set house style but have a similar style to Poole. They can do a military cut, if requested.

As mentioned above M&M and W&J are military tailors; however, Huntsman are not in the same bracket.
 
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Pembers

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I believe Dege cut their trousers quite slim - they might be what you are looking for.

Probably more so than Huntsman, whose cut is considered 'equestrian' rather than military. I'm not an expert, but I think that primarily means a longer coat.
 

Kuro

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cifonelli is maybe about 50% of what you describe - the shoulders are minimally padded (although I guess the roping could be described as strong) and the chest, as they describe it, is "small" with a light canvas. Also, the button stance isn't really low (but I suppose you could ask for that).
 
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add911_11

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I personally find Caraceni Rome has the most modern strong shoulder look. However, I knew there is a tailor in Hong Kong who does old school concave strong shoulder.
 

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