What details make an outstanding bespoke shoe?

[sully]

Originally Posted by iammatt

It is like anything else bespoke. The owner needs to be happy and the fit needs to be spot on.
Yes this is true, but I'm trying to get more opinions about the finer points in the construction or do members think all makers are similar.

 

[RJman]

Originally Posted by sully

Yes this is true, but I'm trying to get more opinions about the finer points in the construction or do members think all makers are similar.
Whose sock puppet are you?

 

[Will]

Originally Posted by sully

Yes this is true, but I'm trying to get more opinions about the finer points in the construction or do members think all makers are similar.

You're not getting responses because one or two details don't make bespoke shoes outstanding. If they did, every mid-range Italian RTW shoe would have them, just as they have working sleeve buttonholes.

 

[sully]

Originally Posted by RJman

Whose sock puppet are you?
I had some bespoke shoes made by two or three of the London firms about 20 years ago and I'm interested in a new purchase. I met a gent who does outwork for various firms but I didnt have the time to get his detailed opinions so I wanted to get pointers for the next purchase. I am not familiar with sock puppetry is it a new trend

Sorry if my question was not of interest.

 

[Will]

Originally Posted by sully

I wanted to get pointers for the next purchase.

That's a different question. Of the British makers, for example, W. S. Foster currently employs the man considered the best lastmaker in Britain. Gaziano & Girling likes to make more modern looking bespoke shoes.

 

[itsstillmatt]

Originally Posted by Will

That's a different question. Of the British makers, for example, W. S. Foster currently employs the man considered the best lastmaker in Britain. Gaziano & Girling likes to make more modern looking bespoke shoes.
From the samples I have seen in London, I would concur with Will that the Foster shoes have the most attractive lasts.

 

[Panzeraxe II]

I'm curious to know why so many people on this forum consider Terry to be "the best lastmaker in London." Is it simply because of jcusey's write-up on AAAC?

I ask as I've visited quite a few bespoke shops in London, and most of Savile Row speaks highly of GJ Cleverley in particular. I have little doubt that WSF, G&G and JL are all equally good, but why is Terry (and by extension, WSF) the "best"?

 

[itsstillmatt]

Originally Posted by Panzeraxe II

I'm curious to know why so many people on this forum consider Terry to be "the best lastmaker in London." Is it simply because of jcusey's write-up on AAAC?

I ask as I've visited quite a few bespoke shops in London, and most of Savile Row speaks highly of GJ Cleverley in particular. I have little doubt that WSF, G&G and JL are all equally good, but why is Terry (and by extension, WSF) the "best"?
Well, I don't know that he is "the best", but I tend to like squre toed shoes and I think that the Foster shape, which is a very nice square toe, just appeals to me more. Cleverley would be second for me, but Fosters looks just a smidgen better to my eye.

 

[luk-cha]

well if if Terry is not the best best he is certainly the oldest and the most experianced, i also like foster and son from what i have seen on the web and in the shop and when i was chatting to G&G at my fitting last month they spoke highly of foster and son.

personally i think it a lot to do with the Co. DNA and what you are looking for, i was wanting to have one pair made with G&G and another with foster and son, but as G&G were nearer (30minutes) to wear my mother lives it made sense to do both pair with G&G as i could not get to london for a fitting this year.

so if this is a detail/ factor then it helped make my mind up to go with G&G and hopefully with no regrets

 

[dopey]

Originally Posted by iammatt

Well, I don't know that he is "the best", but I tend to like squre toed shoes and I think that the Foster shape, which is a very nice square toe, just appeals to me more. Cleverley would be second for me, but Fosters looks just a smidgen better to my eye.

If you like square toes, I think Paul Davies a/k/a the London Shoemaker does an excellent version of this style.

 

[Cantabrigian]

Dopey, that is a great looking last.

 

[Will]

Originally Posted by Cantabrigian

Dopey, that is a great looking last.

Is Mr. Davies still working out of the Washington DC area?

 

[sully]

Originally Posted by dopey

If you like square toes, I think Paul Davies a/k/a the London Shoemaker does an excellent version of this style.


This is interesting, as many years ago Paul Davies worked under Terry Moore at Foster and Son before he joined Cleverley so maybe Mr Moore is a greater influence than it first appears . My choice for my next purchase is heading toward Foster & Son, but from what I understand most firms use the same small number of outworkers so apart from the shop style and leather selection would the craftmanship be of equal quality?

 

[bengal-stripe]

Originally Posted by iammatt

I would concur with Will that the Foster shoes have the most attractive lasts.
Unfortunately the samples that Foster & Son has on display are so ancient, that they were probably produced, long before Terry Moore joined the company (late 60s, or so); probably even before the good man was born.

This applies to virtually all the old-established shoemaking companies in London. They have no qualms to display shoes that were made by people who have long joined that great cobbler's workshop in the sky. All of the Lobb display shoes are probably from before WW1. Cleverley has some (new-ish) samples from when the current company was established (about mid 90s), but they still display the shoes of Anthony (George C's nephew, I believe). Anthony never had a show room and worked for a private clientele, which included such well-known aesthetes like Baron de Rede and Hubert de Givenchy.

Anthony (who must have been a contemporary of Terry Moore's), died sometime in the mid 80s. I believe he was the finest shoemaker of his generation.

Here is Anthony's portfolio as well as the samples displayed at Cleverley's (thanks to our friend "˜centipede'):

http://centipede.web.fc2.com/anthony/01.html
http://centipede.web.fc2.com/anthony2/anthony2.html

 

[medwards]

Originally Posted by Will

Is Mr. Davies still working out of the Washington DC area?


Yes, I visited with him yesterday at William Field's.