Valentino Dinner Jacket with Pick Stitch

[JPHilbert]

So I need some advice. I have my wedding coming up at the end of December and looking to purchase a tuxedo for the event. As some background, it is simply a small evening dinner (quite atypical) following a short ceremony in the foyer. Now as for me, I was initially considering wearing one of my suits from work (I usually wear JAB, RL, and a couple Banana Republic throw-arounds, tho they fit me the best), but since decided I should look a little different than everyday. So I have been looking on ebay and elsewhere and slowly increasing my budget. This is mainly due to my specifications and lack of willingness to buy sight unseen. Hence here we are.

My new budget is $1000 for the jacket and pants (does not include bow tie, braces, shirt, etc). I specifically want peaked lapel, single button, no vent, flat front. Circulating the stores around my town of Pittsburgh (if any one is here, please help), I found the stores that know their style: Saks Fifth Avenue and Larrimores (the latter being beyond my budget). Also I am a bit of a runt for 35, being 5'8 and 130# so the fit is hit or miss (my JABs seem a bit big in the chest, though they have been tailored). The best I have found is this Valentino at Saks. Basically it has everything I ever wanted and fits like a glove, however (see picture), it has pick stitching all over the place. Yes, I have heard this is an utter 'no no', but I think it is growing on me. Or perhaps I need to hear it again (and again).

​

So here are my questions:

• Is it too trendy and I'll regret this in XX years?
• Who is this 'Valentino' at Saks?
• Is it worth 1k?
• Anyone have other local recommendations?
• Can I do (local) MTM in my budget?

I am going to go circulate downtown Pittsburgh again during lunch and see if I can answer some of these myself, but I am always interested in opinions and extra advice.

 

[jk2317]

I don't know any rules for or against pick stitching on a dinner jacket; however, I would think it should be VERY subtle, if it makes an appearance at all. What you show there looks like crap, IMHO.

My tuxedo came from Mr. Ned, a three piece for about $1100. So it seems you can definitely get MTM in your price range if you can find a local tailor of similar quality. I don't know anything about Pittsburgh, so don't ask me!

 

[landshark]

Definitely no. It looks like it's from Macy's.

 

[Viral]



Definitely no. It looks like it's from Macy's.

what's wrong with Macy's?

OP, Valentino offers one of the best offerings for the money. Their fit is amazing and that is what should drive your decision-making. The pic you posted accentuates the detail perhaps too much, but I doubt that under most circumstances it will stand out as much.

I have a couple Valentino SC from recent collections and even my tailor (Pablo @ Stanton) commented on the quality of the garments.

For 1K, I'd pull the trigger..............you'd be hard-pressed to get more for your money especially if it fits like a glove (as you stated).

 

[JPHilbert]

Well I do agree with landshark with Macy's. The best they could they had was a Tommy H with a notched lapel. It was slim fitting so it fit rather well, but it felt like a $200 suite. I would not want to spend four times as much and still get the relatively same look. Thought I do think that it is more important how it feels on me rather than how it 'looks' like it feels (but I guess there is some correlation between the two).

I haven't made up my mind, but I should mention that the Valentino had another quirk which would be more out of my pocket: it had belt loops. Has anyone else seen this? The tailor at Saks said he could remove them (but for a price) in addition to altering the pants a bit. Granted I may be the only one who would have noticed this and ultimately would know, but I am detail person.

Now, as promised, I did go out yesterday. I ended up finding Joseph Orlando, a local retailer of Samuelsohn and Jack Victor (I think). Thought he didn't have anything in stock nor my size, he mentioned they are doing a trunk sale (20% off) in a week bringing even the Samuelsohn MTM down to the same price as the Valentino (granted Saks has an additional 10-15% credit card discount). The thought of having something made for me, rather than a hanger in a store is quite appealing. I guess I might already know your opinions, but does this pretty much solve my problems (or just created more)?

(I am also waiting on an answer from a local tailor that may do a bespoke dinner jacket for slightly less, too)

 

[Viral]



Well I do agree with landshark with Macy's. The best they could they had was a Tommy H with a notched lapel. It was slim fitting so it fit rather well, but it felt like a $200 suite. I would not want to spend four times as much and still get the relatively same look. Thought I do think that it is more important how it feels on me rather than how it 'looks' like it feels (but I guess there is some correlation between the two).

I haven't made up my mind, but I should mention that the Valentino had another quirk which would be more out of my pocket: it had belt loops. Has anyone else seen this? The tailor at Saks said he could remove them (but for a price) in addition to altering the pants a bit. Granted I may be the only one who would have noticed this and ultimately would know, but I am detail person.

Now, as promised, I did go out yesterday. I ended up finding Joseph Orlando, a local retailer of Samuelsohn and Jack Victor (I think). Thought he didn't have anything in stock nor my size, he mentioned they are doing a trunk sale (20% off) in a week bringing even the Samuelsohn MTM down to the same price as the Valentino (granted Saks has an additional 10-15% credit card discount). The thought of having something made for me, rather than a hanger in a store is quite appealing. I guess I might already know your opinions, but does this pretty much solve my problems (or just created more)?

(I am also waiting on an answer from a local tailor that may do a bespoke dinner jacket for slightly less, too)

If you already know that Macy's doesn't carry the same level of merchandise as Saks then why would you even compare the two? I recommend you don't overthink the situation...........decide what your deal-breakers are and go form there.

 

[JPHilbert]

If you already know that Macy's doesn't carry the same level of merchandise as Saks then why would you even compare the two?

I recommend you don't overthink the situation...........decide what your deal-breakers are and go form there.

Well I was just commenting on landsharks comparison. But I do agree with you, there is nothing wrong with Macy's for particular items (have a CK jacket from them). My (future) wife says the same thing about over thinking (though she calls it something else ). Your right, thanks.

 

[scurvyfreedman]

The pick stitching seems to highlight the fact that the lapels do not have satin or grosgrain. Because it does not, I wouldn't consider it a dinner jacket, despite the other formalities (black, no vent, peak lapels). It's just a formal black suit.

 

[Roger Everett]

Pick stitching is a bit trendy , and looks like pop on a tux, which calls for being a more traditional pc. of clothing. The picture you show of the jacket kinda looks like sh*t with the pick stitching. Belt loops on tux pants " never " , and why would one pay to have removed something that doesn't even belong there. Maybe it's some sort of new trendy tux. However you usually buy a tux to last a long time, since it's not worn very often, so I would buy a good one that is more traditionally styled, unless you;re a movie star and just need it to make a statement at an awards show.

 

[Klobber]

You like the Valentino jacket, so whats stopping you?

 

[Sanguis Mortuum]



The pick stitching seems to highlight the fact that the lapels do not have satin or grosgrain. Because it does not, I wouldn't consider it a dinner jacket, despite the other formalities (black, no vent, peak lapels). It's just a formal black suit.

I think the lapel is satin, it certainly looks to be a different fabric to the rest of the coat at least.

 

[JPHilbert]

The pick stitching seems to highlight the fact that the lapels do not have satin or grosgrain. Because it does not, I wouldn't consider it a dinner jacket, despite the other formalities (black, no vent, peak lapels). It's just a formal black suit.

I think the lapel is satin, it certainly looks to be a different fabric to the rest of the coat at least.

Yes, you are correct, the lapels are satin in addition to the pant seam. On a side note, the satin on the pants had similar stitching. I only bring this up to yield more information on this particular product (in case anyone else falls into this rut in the future). I, myself, plan to see if Saks has a Valentino that does not have the stitching or go with the MTM Samuelsohn (Gable cut, if they still make it, didn't have a chance to go through the style book) or Jack Victor.