Upgrading my wardrobe, need advice on shoes.

[Mokurkalfe]

Hello styleforum. As part of upgrading my wardrobe I am starting out with the shoes. I have been walking around in sneakers for as long as I remember, but it is now time to take a step in the more professional direction. For now, just focus on the shoes and not the rest of my outfit.

I live in Denmark, as in England, the weather is not always great here. Actually it is more often not great than it is great. So a criteria for the shoes is that they have to be able to withstand water to some degree. Furthermore, the actual price of the shoe is not as important as the cost per use. I would rather buy a more expansive shoe that can be used for a longer time.

The following styles are what I have in mind:
Black chelsea boot (Maybe Loake 1880)
Brown derby brogue (Maybe Grenson Archie with the white vibram sole)
Black loafer (Maybe Loake 1880)

Would the loakes live up to my demands on quality, or should I dish out a bit more cash and get a better shoe? In this case what brands and what pricepoints should I be looking at to get the best value shoe.

How does this type of shoe hold up to water given the right treatment. Regular shining, using shoe tree's, not wearing them for 2 days in a row etc.

To quantify; how many years of daily use would be expected from a lower end brand like Loake compared to a higher end brand like C&J given the same treatment?
Does the law of diminishing returns apply to shoes, if so where is the sweet-spot?

Thank you for taking your time to help!
Regards from Denmark.

 

[Anachronist]

Hi Mokurkalfe, first of all, welcome to the party

My first recommendation is to buy at least 2 pairs of good shoes and shoe trees (e.g. from www.bexley.com, which are regularly on sale at a good price) if you want to get longer wear from them. What makes shoes last long are the basic rules: i) one day of wear, one day pause, ii) put fitting shoe trees in right after wear and iii) regular care (clean if dirty, let dry naturally if wet, cream and wax at least once a year).

If you buy e.g. a brown brogue and black chelsea you'll be set for virtually most occasions.

If weather is frequently poor (and I know what you mean from my previous time working in Denmark, although I cherish the memories of this lovely country), I would recommend to go with rubber soles. Personally, I favor the Dainite soles for rainy days as these have shown to be very long wearing.

Whilst Loake can be seen as the entry level to welted shoes, they probably pose the best value for money and will last as long as many more expensive shoes. I would personally however recommend to try on various brands as the key criteria for buying shoes and enjoying them is fit. This is a result of the last shape and these differ substantially from maker to maker. Personally, I found that Loake makes good looking shoes that are a bargain, but they feel somewhat poorly cushioned (less of the cork paddening in the sole) and less comfortable than e.g. slightly more expensive shoes from e.g. Carmina, Barker or Crockett & Jones. But if you don't want to shell out a fortune at the beginning, Loake or Cheaney shoes may be a good start.

 

[Mokurkalfe]

Hi Mokurkalfe, first of all, welcome to the party

My first recommendation is to buy at least 2 pairs of good shoes and shoe trees (e.g. from www.bexley.com, which are regularly on sale at a good price) if you want to get longer wear from them. What makes shoes last long are the basic rules: i) one day of wear, one day pause, ii) put fitting shoe trees in right after wear and iii) regular care (clean if dirty, let dry naturally if wet, cream and wax at least once a year).

If you buy e.g. a brown brogue and black chelsea you'll be set for virtually most occasions.

If weather is frequently poor (and I know what you mean from my previous time working in Denmark, although I cherish the memories of this lovely country), I would recommend to go with rubber soles. Personally, I favor the Dainite soles for rainy days as these have shown to be very long wearing.

Whilst Loake can be seen as the entry level to welted shoes, they probably pose the best value for money and will last as long as many more expensive shoes. I would personally however recommend to try on various brands as the key criteria for buying shoes and enjoying them is fit. This is a result of the last shape and these differ substantially from maker to maker. Personally, I found that Loake makes good looking shoes that are a bargain, but they feel somewhat poorly cushioned (less of the cork paddening in the sole) and less comfortable than e.g. slightly more expensive shoes from e.g. Carmina, Barker or Crockett & Jones. But if you don't want to shell out a fortune at the beginning, Loake or Cheaney shoes may be a good start.

Thank you for clarifying! I dont mind spending a minor fortune if it is a good investment, so I will definitely check out some of the more expensive shoes and keep the fit and comfort in mind. I think that answered all of my questions!

 

[flipstah]

I'm just here to confirm how great Dainite soles are. I have them on my Allen Edmonds and they've been grippy in slightly slushy weather here in Canada.

 

[maxalex]

All types of leather will eventually get soaked through; it is porous and the top layer is only water resistant to a point, even when oiled. Some types of welts, such as the so-called Norwegian welt, are better at keeping water out of the joint between sole and upper—but they are chunky and more suited to boots. Thus even with Dainite soles, if you walk through slush puddles in leather shoes you will get wet feet.

Two options remain: first, invest in a pair of LL Bean duck boots for really miserable days. In certain arrondissements of cool (e.g. Williamsburg, Brooklyn) they have attained a hipster status that shows no sign of abatement although I can’t speak for the citizens of Copenhagen in this regard.

Second, get a pair of galoshes to wear over your dress shoes when venturing outdoors in inclement weather.

Please don’t tell me that Danes no longer ice skate to work.

 

[charleswilsonuk]

Agree with Anachronist, If you go for Black chelsea boot or Brown derby brogue then you will set for occasions. According to weather just go for rubber soles shoes.

 

[Chouan]

I must say that I have yet to see anybody wearing galoshes, ever. Even in the UK when it rains I haven't found that I need anything more than Dainite soles, or Topy's on leather soles. The advice about styles is good. Then expand!

 

[jkingrph]

I live in east Texas, the extreme western edge of the deep south of the US. We tend to get a lot of extreme temperature fluctuations this time of year, 70's F yesterday, two days from now low predicted is mid 20's.

At my older age I have gotten to wearing Allen Edmonds boots during the cooler months, and cannot recommend the Danite soles enough for wet weather. I am not usually out enough to worry about galoshes so keep my shoes/boots well waxed and polished. The higher cut of the boot, or really a high top shoe does wonders for keeping feet dry and warmer. If things get really bad I have a pair of insulated flight boots left over from my Air Force days.