Tweed Suit and general suit advice for a newcomer

[BrentBowie]

Hello!

I was hoping to get some advice on what to look for when purchasing suits and what my best options would be!
I am wanting to slowly build up a collection of three piece suits with a focus on tweed. I have attached some photos to give you an idea of what I am looking for.

One thing that has confused me with looking at the many different suit brands is materials. Some suit brands focus on 100% wool outer with 100% polyester or similar for the lining. While brands found on ebay and throughout the UK (even quite expensive brands ie Simon Prince) seem to be blends of wool and polyester such as a 10% wool with 90% polyester.

How important is material? I am based in Australia where I have cold winters and very warm summers, breathability is important and I definitely don't want to be wearing a very cheap looking suit.

I can't afford a bespoke suit at this stage but am open to spending $500-$800 and I am quite often in South East Asia and the United Kingdom. I thought of having a suit made when I find myself in India, Thailand or Vietnam but have held off because I see suits as investments and don't want to rush in blindly. I am more then open to buying off the rack with the option to tailor but I don't know what to look for with an off the rack suit, how much can it be tailored? I am assuming the waist can't be altered? the buttons on the jacket should be done up with no gut sucking in? haha

Looking forward to getting some advice, thanks!!

Brent

 

[comrade]

The first suit is cartoonish, the second almost so.
The second two are fine.
Does it really get that cold in Australia? in
Northern California real tweed is wearable
less than half the year because it never gets
very cold like Northern Europe or the Northern US.

 

[Chowkin]

Have a look at Cordings’ offerings:

https://www.cordings.co.uk/menswear/country-suits

As for altering an off the rack suit, here are some guidelines:

https://www.permanentstyle.com/2009/01/how-to-get-a-ready-to-wear-suit-altered.html

https://www.artofmanliness.com/arti...hool-part-ii-the-alterations-every-man-needs/

https://putthison.com/does-it-fit-checklist-a-friend-of-mine-recently/

https://putthison.com/how-a-suit-jacket-or-sport-coat-should-fit-a/

 

[useless_username]

Waistcoat will make the suit warmer than no waistcoat. And tweed is one of the warmest fabrics out there. Throw in the effects of global warming and you're looking at a self-induced hyperthermia.

Avoid synthethics and synthetic blends, go for pure wool (or linen, or cotton, or some blend of them). The lining is usually semi-synthetic (e.g. viscose), even in high-end suits. With affordable SE Asian tailors you usually get what you pay for. Off the rack and alterations often produce good results, assuming you're an 'easy fit' (average body type) and the alterations tailor knows what he's doing.

There's a dedicated Australia thread on this forum, probably useful for you.

 

[Bromley]

Hi Brent,
Tweed is great! Glad you're into it.

Synthetic fibers are fine for linings, but I would avoid synthetic fibers in the cloth itself. You can find good, real tweed for less money than most other cloths, anyway. That's a corner best not cut.

One of tweed's primary characteristics is warmth. I'm not sure how cold the winters are where you live, but that's something to keep in mind. A vest will certainly add to the warmth.

The tweed pictures you posted run the gamut. The first looks like a tweed-effect worsted. Second looks like a loosely-woven city tweed. Third is a stiff, heavy gamekeeper's tweed. The last looks a little like Shetland. If you're not familiar with the differences, I'd like to think a kind-hearted tailor in your area would be willing to show you swatches and explain the differences. No harm in asking, especially if your interest takes you that far.

You mentioned that you're looking to slowly build up a collection, and that you often travel to the UK. If that's the case, you might have fun checking out vintage/thrift stores while you're there. Friends of mine in London have had good luck finding beautiful, old bespoke suits in London vintage shops, and then having them altered. Otherwise, Chowkin's advice to check out Cordings is spot on.

Good luck!

 

[comrade]

I have shopped at Cordings...for shirts.
Their tweeds tend to be stiff and heavy
and quite inexpensive. I personally would
never wear their exaggerated English cut with
built-up shoulders, etc. For a more refined, higher quality,
take on tweed in the " natural" cut favored in the US see
The Andover Shop:

https://theandovershop.com/index.ph...th=1_6&zenid=320d7dc95f39fa3d85ad0007f68b45eb

Also, O'Connells:

http://www.oconnellsclothing.com/Sport-Coats/

 

[Andy57]

I have shopped at Cordings...for shirts.
Their tweeds tend to be stiff and heavy
and quite inexpensive. I personally would
never wear their exaggerated English cut with
built-up shoulders, etc.

Huh. That's exactly why I love the look of their jackets. I'd buy one in a New York minute, if I did that sort of thing.

 

[comrade]

"New York Minute"? I'm from New York. Even in the menswear
shopping heyday of the 60s through the 80s one could not find
that style in NYC retail.I love British fabrics and have owned a British Warm
and still have an Invertere greatcoat and a Burberry wool Balmacaan.
It's the prominent shoulders and tight fit that turn me off
They remind me of the clothing in the classical Monty Python , Upper Class Twit
skits:



BTW, you don't dress like that, as I recall

 

[Andy57]

"New York Minute"? I'm from New York. Even in the menswear
shopping heyday of the 60s through the 80s one could not find
that style in NYC retail.I love British fabrics and have owned a British Warm
and still have an Invertere greatcoat and a Burberry wool Balmacaan.
It's the prominent shoulders and tight fit that turn me off
They remind me of the clothing in the classical Monty Python , Upper Class Twit
skits:

BTW, you don't dress like that, as I recall

Classic sketch, thanks for that reminder!

My tweeds aren't cut quite like that, it's true.