The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Todd V]

Gents --

May I ask for some advice on jacket length? I'm 5'4" ~135lbs so I really try not to go too long (making me look like my suit is too big) but still maintain an office appropriate look. Finding a jacket at the perfect length is a challenge.

(I know the shoulder / sleeve looks off. I think it is they way I'm standing, plus this suit is OTR).

Thanks!

 

[emidyl]

Gents --

May I ask for some advice on jacket length? I'm 5'4" ~135lbs so I really try not to go too long (making me look like my suit is too big) but still maintain an office appropriate look. Finding a jacket at the perfect length is a challenge.

(I know the shoulder / sleeve looks off. I think it is they way I'm standing, plus this suit is OTR).

Thanks!

my rule is just covering your butt area or I use the 2nd set of knuckles from finger tips, give or take

 

[OTCtailor]

At 5'4" this jacket is not too short. Your already relatively shirt height can organically accept a jacket with shorter proportion. Proportions that if placed on a taller man would evidently be too short.
In other words, relax on official rules. It isn't so short that it shows your seat like a ladies jacket. Its more like just like long enough that it just barely covers the seat. At your height and looking for a modern fit, this particular proportional aesthetic is actually just what youre looking for.
The rest of the cut on the suit matches reasonably well with the length. Could it it be better? Yes and in a variety of ways...but you're doing better than most who post looking for a similar result and its best if we don't make you focus too much on all the smaller more technical issues with your suit.
It looks fine. Not perfect, but fine.

Gents --

May I ask for some advice on jacket length? I'm 5'4" ~135lbs so I really try not to go too long (making me look like my suit is too big) but still maintain an office appropriate look. Finding a jacket at the perfect length is a challenge.

(I know the shoulder / sleeve looks off. I think it is they way I'm standing, plus this suit is OTR).

Thanks!

 

[md2010]

Hi guys , bought this PZ suit in 36r. its 3 button unvented. I wear slim 36r. The shoulder on this is about 17.83 inches. Where as most of my best fitted jackets are 17.4 inches( Lightly padded). I feel the shoulder is a bit wide. But no divots or bulging. Looking at the poor pictures can you tell if it's too terrible.

 

[KyleT]

Quick question - is 3 1/4 yards of cloth (solid colour, no checks) sufficient for a DB suit for 5' 6" height, 125lbs

 

[TreverBrisance]

Cross-post from luxire thread
I would appreciate comments on the fit of my first Luxire shirt which has, as recommended, been washed and ironed (badly) twice. Fabric is sky blue oxford with NOBD II collar (picture with tie and jacket in spoiler). The fabric and build quality are just as good as I was led to believe, MOP buttons are just so much better than rubbishy plastic.

Left Yoke: -1 in
Right Yoke : -0.5 in
Right Cuff: -0.25in
Back Chest : -0.5in
Back waist: -1 in
Second button placement up 0.5in

Sleeve attachment rotated (I take it Luxire would do this the right amount if I sent a picture)
Issue with wrinkling behind the collar, from reading I gather that this may be to do with neck posture? If so I think my neck is back somewhat.
Shoulder slope, have I gone slightly too far and need to decrease the slope across my shoulders? (currently 23 degrees left, 29 degrees right)
Sleeve length? I think it's pretty good, maybe slightly long?
Sorry for the merely ok quality pictures, the one from behind is clearly not too useful but just shows slightly too big back chest and waist.

 

[Isolation]

I got these from luxire to be beaters. Thoughts? It's far from perfect and too long/needs belt but I was thinking maybe they're adequate. I usually go no break and quite slim and wanted a fuller pair with full break to try different cuts, so I'm not sure if this works or not, as it's not something I go for very much.

Here's a pic from a fit where I wore no belt.

Should I just shorten it or does rest of it need significant work too?

 

[Emoore17]

Hello all,

I am having the hardest time finding a suit. I am 6'4". This is a 41L Michael Kors modern fit suit. My thighs are big, so it's almost like a slim fit for me after I get it altered in the leg. Is this length acceptable? I need guidance because I am getting mix results. One guy said its not even worth tailoring because it will look like I am wearing someone else's clothes. The guy suggested this suit (jacket length).
I know the traditional suit should be longer, but I am not looking for traditional. I want a true modern/slim fit. Also, what would you alter if this is a decent fit? Please help me. I'm going crazy. Thanks in advance.

I

 

[SchwererGustav]

Fellas,

I'm looking to have this second-hand sport coat altered. I have never had anything altered before, and have some reservations.

The tailor give his input, but am not sure if what he is suggesting is classic or "trendy". I would prefer to go classic whenever possible.

I am six feet tall, and about 173 lbs. This jacket is a 42L. I have also been told that my rear is slightly prominent. The tailor suggests I raise the bottom hem to where it just skims the bottom of the patch pockets, whereas I read that a jacket should cover your ass. The tailor also recommends bringing in the sides and sleeve length. Is he leading me the right way, or just looking for a higher price?

Lastly, I am considering changing the buttons on the jacket. I believe they are some colored plastic, as the color has flaked off and showed white underneath. I have used a marker to color it in, but figure I could do buttons while I am at it and would appreciate suggestions.

 

[Spaghettimatt]

Alright so I need a little advice here but I don't have pictures.

I had a Lee Baron suit made in Hong Kong a while ago with soft/natural shoulder (minimal padding). I realized later that they didn't do a great job of fitting the suit shoulder to my own, natural sloping shoulder, as there was some rumpling across the top of the shoulders near where my shoulders drop off (basically a divot at the top of the shoulders where the sleeve head meets the cap).

So I brought it to a tailor and he suggested padding the shoulder out a little bit, which solved the rumpling problem but created a few other problems, including: sleeve pitch (wrinkling across front of the sleeves starting in the armpit) and slight divoting at the sleeve cap. The tailor reckons the divoting can be fixed by letting out the upper back, which is currently tight and perhaps pulling the shoulders back. I hope this works but I don't know about the sleeve pitch. Any thoughts on either of these?


I realize now I should have brought it to a better tailor and had shoulder reduced/recut where it was rumpling, but I'm worried it's too late for this.

Any help greatly appreciated.

 

[ter1413]



Hello all,

I am having the hardest time finding a suit. I am 6'4". This is a 41L Michael Kors modern fit suit. My thighs are big, so it's almost like a slim fit for me after I get it altered in the leg. Is this length acceptable? I need guidance because I am getting mix results. One guy said its not even worth tailoring because it will look like I am wearing someone else's clothes. The guy suggested this suit (jacket length).
I know the traditional suit should be longer, but I am not looking for traditional. I want a true modern/slim fit. Also, what would you alter if this is a decent fit? Please help me. I'm going crazy. Thanks in advance.

I

From the looks of it, the jacket doesn't look like a bad fit at all.

 

[Emoore17]



From the looks of it, the jacket doesn't look like a bad fit at all.

It's not. Got fitted and it looks great

 

[nekostyle]

All -

Having intended to post a request under this thread, I messed up and created a separate topic by accident.
Given that some kindly folks have already shared thoughts in response, I'll link to it here rather than double post.
Would very much appreciate any additional feedback/guidance.

http://www.styleforum.net/t/468466/suit-fit-check

 

[Despos]

Lots of issues with the cut of this suit. Look at the vertical line of the pattern in the cloth on the jacket fronts. The lines in the fronts make a V line rather than being parallel like this II. This is called scissoring and is a flaw in the cut. The strap is too short, the fronts need to be cut longer and maybe adjust the shoulder slope. Right strap needs more length than the left to match your shoulder at the neck

The back at the blades is huge and not easy to alter. You cannot reduce the armhole at the side body without deepening the back of the armhole which would produce drag and make the jacket uncomfortable. You can only reduce the back part. The back is also a bit short at the center back suggesting the shoulder slope is off.

You should accept them recutting the trouser so you will have outlets to work with in the future if you need more room. Try a wider knee and bottom measure to get a clean line to the leg. You can taper them later if you want. Looks like you may have a high right hip

Would be interesting to see if these issues are there with RTW

 

[SchwererGustav]

Fellas,

I'm looking to have this second-hand sport coat altered. I have never had anything altered before, and have some reservations.

The tailor give his input, but am not sure if what he is suggesting is classic or "trendy". I would prefer to go classic whenever possible.

I am six feet tall, and about 173 lbs. This jacket is a 42L. I have also been told that my rear is slightly prominent. The tailor suggests I raise the bottom hem to where it just skims the bottom of the patch pockets, whereas I read that a jacket should cover your ass. The tailor also recommends bringing in the sides and sleeve length. Is he leading me the right way, or just looking for a higher price?

Lastly, I am considering changing the buttons on the jacket. I believe they are some colored plastic, as the color has flaked off and showed white underneath. I have used a marker to color it in, but figure I could do buttons while I am at it and would appreciate suggestions.

Any advice for me yet?