The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[f800gs]

@oviov I can't help with fit but what brand is the espresso machine on the counter?

 

[hombreingwar]

Still on a lookout for my first sport jacket (versatile and leaning to a casual more). I wonder if I should keep this one(j.crew, 40% discount).
What do you think please? Tailorable? Casual and versatile enough color/pattern?

38R (I'm 6ft, 145-150 lbs) I guess rare 37L would be better for me (36R is usually tight in the chest and too short on me).
http://i.imgur.com/XRhtfbG.jpg

 

[Saxo]

Surely the jacket is quite trim but it would be ok if the front balance were longer and the back balance a little shorter. Looks like your posture is a little head forward. Shoulders more sloped and lower on the right. Forward hips and swayback, as well. The jacket shoulders look too big but they may not be sloped enough for your shoulders resulting in sleeve caps that are too high. Sleeves need to be removed and recut to fit the armhole. Maybe sloping the shoulders a bit would help too. THat's a big job.

Thank you for the feedback! I guess the conclusion is, that it is not worth trying to correct it - recut sleeves and sloping the shoulders sounds expensive, and it was a rather cheap suit (450 $). Problably better to search for a suit that fits me better OTR. But now at least I know what to look for!

 

[VOGESUS]

How and what shoulder adjustment did you ask for?
The issue here is you have square shoulders and the shirt is cut with more shoulder slope than your shoulder line. This creates the excess cloth under the collar and around your neck

Well I've ordered like 3 times from MT and this latest order I switched the posture to straight and shoulders to square.

 

[VOGESUS]

Much like a previous poster, it appears (though hard to tell with these perspective limiting photos) that your shoulders are a little more square or posture more erect than what is built into the shirt. Then, it looks like the yoke may be too wide falling off your shoulder but maybe not. The [main] problem is made a little worse by insufficient room in the chest only. Adding to the sideseam under the arm would be the right fix but isn't possible to a finished shirt.

Thank you. So I should increase the measurement of my chest?

Here's my current measurements from MT. We're talking half chest correct?

 

[OTCtailor]

Thank you for the feedback! I guess the conclusion is, that it is not worth trying to correct it - recut sleeves and sloping the shoulders sounds expensive, and it was a rather cheap suit (450 $). Problably better to search for a suit that fits me better OTR. But now at least I know what to look for!

It is definitely worth it to search around for a brand that might fit you better OTR. Understand, however, that most OTR brands are going to style their cuts near "normal" with shoulders, chest, back, stomach etc. I would say as a general guideline if one of those critical upper body fitting areas esp shoulders is horribly off, don't waste your time and money.

 

[OTCtailor]

Thank you. So I should increase the measurement of my chest?

Here's my current measurements from MT. We're talking half chest correct?

So one thing we don't have here in this thread is a working knowledge of whoever/whatever company you're going thru with these postural observations when combined with your actual measures and pics. Therefore, it's just about impossible to tell you how to proceed. Considering your pics were also very limiting, this reply post is just about useless.

We're here to help. If it were any other way, we would tell you.

There are too many moving pieces that you've unintentionally left out that any professional here would need in order to properly diagnose and address your issue.

 

[Zacharrrr]

hey guys, I need some help here. I have posted these two pics in another thread looking for help.
I have a massive problem with shirts I get from my MTM maker. He is local and i always have the issue with shirts from this guy that dress shirts are bulging. My body shape is probably athletic and I wanna know what the problem is here and what I need to look out for so I dont have this problem again. See pics.

pic1: notice how when im standing up the shirt das not fall "clean" and is bulging. Sorry if I cant desribe it any better.



pic2: this is what happens when I sit down. self explanatory. this is just unacceptable.

 

[ovlov]

Thanks for the input guys.

 

[VOGESUS]

So one thing we don't have here in this thread is a working knowledge of whoever/whatever company you're going thru with these postural observations when combined with your actual measures and pics. Therefore, it's just about impossible to tell you how to proceed. Considering your pics were also very limiting, this reply post is just about useless.

We're here to help. If it were any other way, we would tell you.

There are too many moving pieces that you've unintentionally left out that any professional here would need in order to properly diagnose and address your issue.

Understood. What can I do to get to a point where more help could be provided? Is the lack of good photos the limiting factor?

 

[madoxoflondon]

Since you have asked for measurements a few times now I will give them but I want to repeat the massive caveat that there really are no firm rules : just sketch various permutations (or have your tailor do it) and see what you like.

As an example, I just measured the suit below and there is 4" between each button and 2.75" between the top button and the highest point of the pocket which is slanted, as you can see from the image.


Now, returning to the caveat: the (womens) jacket below, from Chanel, is a design classic. In fact it's such an iconic and loved design that I actually took this photo last weekend at the Design Museum in London where it is being exhibited currently.

The reason I use this as an example is that there are many elements of proportion on this jacket that could be considered 'off' or 'untraditional' ... yet together the effect is quite stunning. I hope this visual example serves to illustrate the point that there is not a 'fixed' way of doing things and that great results can be had with some experimentation - that is part of the fun of bespoke!

Cheers

 

[TweedyProf]

Since you have asked for measurements a few times now I will give them but I want to repeat the massive caveat that there really are no firm rules : just sketch various permutations (or have your tailor do it) and see what you like.

As an example, I just measured the suit below and there is 4" between each button and 2.75" between the top button and the highest point of the pocket which is slanted, as you can see from the image.


Now, returning to the caveat: the (womens) jacket below, from Chanel, is a design classic. In fact it's such an iconic and loved design that I actually took this photo last weekend at the Design Museum in London where it is being exhibited currently.

The reason I use this as an example is that there are many elements of proportion on this jacket that could be considered 'off' or 'untraditional' ... yet together the effect is quite stunning. I hope this visual example serves to illustrate the point that there is not a 'fixed' way of doing things and that great results can be had with some experimentation - that is part of the fun of bespoke!

Cheers

I think this is directed at me? Thanks again for the photoshopped pic of my jacket. I think you hit the ideal buttoning point for that jacket and I will make sure to communicate that to the MTM person next time round. THis is all very helpful for us non-tailors.

 

[Shazam]

The problem with my shirts is the pulling from both shoulders towards the top buttons. Reading this topic made me think I have square shoulders and the shoulders of the shirts slope too much. Would decreasing the slope in future orders solve this problem, and how much (1 inch/2 inch)?

It feels like there is just not enough fabric to close the top buttons. Moreover, I think my chest pushes forward while my shoulders lean back. Must shoulder pitch also be adjusted? Also thought about yoke and chest measurements, so I'm kind of lost of what the real problem is. Hope you guys can enlighten me.

 

[jweiht]

Got a question that some of you may think is stupid.

My late dad was fortunate enough to own like more than 20 designer (Zegnas, Lanvin, Dior, LP) suits..etc. He wear 48 and i probably a 36, so there is no way I'm able to wear any of it and it has been left there for 2 yrs.

However, there is a favourite of his which is a cashmere overcoat which I'm thinking of altering for myself. More for sentimental reasons than anything else.

Is it possible? Cost is so much a concern unless it's ridiculous.

 

[gringodaddy]

Can knitwear be altered? I've lost a significant amout of weight and would like to have a few sweaters taken in. If so, can anyone recommend a tailor in NYC that does this?