The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[hitsuji]

Yeah the bump is the fabric. My actual body doesn’t have a bump like that (See attached photo)

The other jacket was identical in construction and design.

Essentially, they’ve said it’s because I have less muscle mass on the right shoulder blade, and my left shoulder is further forward. And that’s somehow caused the bump at the top in the shoulder line.

Something I would have expected to be adjusted for seeing as we’re talking about bespoke.

That is absurd if you're talking bespoke especially the "we did all we could" excuse, I'd be fuming. I don't see why your muscle imbalance was not addressed in any of the fittings. Were you aware of it before it was finished?

This to me initially looked like an MTM gone wrong but it is unacceptable that the cutter saw that flaw and let you leave with the store with it.

is it just excess fabric or do you feel some padding too?

 

[OGE1815]

That is absurd if you're talking bespoke especially the "we did all we could" excuse, I'd be fuming. I don't see why your muscle imbalance was not addressed in any of the fittings. Were you aware of it before it was finished?

This to me initially looked like an MTM gone wrong but it is unacceptable that the cutter saw that flaw and let you leave with the store with it.

is it just excess fabric or do you feel some padding too?

Absolutely, it’s not what I expected. And I agree with you, I would have thought this is the kind of thing bespoke is for. Hiding issues.

I’ll tell you one thing though… it makes me appreciate my other tailor (Chittleborough and Morgan) - they go above and beyond. Can’t fault them in any way. I’ve actually sent this photo to them too, to get their opinion and will likely take it in next time I’m in London.

Your question:

There’s very light padding there. That’s why I believe the bump is more prominent.

 

[OGE1815]

That’s bespoke?? What firm let that out their door and argued about making it right? That’s unacceptable.

Believe it or not, it is. I’ve sent you the name - all things considered I don‘t feel right slamming them in public.

ps. The shoulder is the only issue. The back looks like it has a lot of drape, and that’s because it’s not a standard jacket. It’s a bomber (same model as one pictured).

 

[marmite]

This looks like a jacket by Michael Brown?

It's not just the "bump", the back should also be much much cleaner. Do you mind my asking how much he charged you for the jacket? Did you also get the matching pants?

edit: I'll remove the name if you're not comfortable seeing it here.

 

[dougc33]

This looks like a jacket by Michael Brown?

It's not just the "bump", the back should also be much much cleaner. Do you mind my asking how much he charged you for the jacket? Did you also get the matching pants?

Browne - or leave the "e" off for "effective tailoring"

 

[hitsuji]

Absolutely, it’s not what I expected. And I agree with you, I would have thought this is the kind of thing bespoke is for. Hiding issues.

I’ll tell you one thing though… it makes me appreciate my other tailor (Chittleborough and Morgan) - they go above and beyond. Can’t fault them in any way. I’ve actually sent this photo to them too, to get their opinion and will likely take it in next time I’m in London.

Your question:

There’s very light padding there. That’s why I believe the bump is more prominent.

It probably would be great to get another opinion of a tailor you trust on the reasoning behind that bump. Possibly C&M?

I suspect, although I'm not knowledgeable at all that due to your imbalance, the pitch of the back/front panels may be misaligned to make that bump happen? But again, I tailor you trust should be able to diagnose it and then you could go back to that firm and ask again because it is a catastrophe and a respectable firm would let you walk out without offering assistance.

 

[OGE1815]

This looks like a jacket by Michael Brown?

It's not just the "bump", the back should also be much much cleaner. Do you mind my asking how much he charged you for the jacket? Did you also get the matching pants?

No it’s okay - Initially wanted to focus on this issue and not the tailor (because some of his work is amazing, beautifully done and I’m sure there are many positive experiences).

Obvious from the photo though, and being new to the forum I underestimated how well known he’d be.

It was £6,750.

I didn’t get the matching pants, no (I can’t justify London bespoke prices for trousers - whitcomb or Sexton offshore is the max I’d go, both great)

 

[OGE1815]

It probably would be great to get another opinion of a tailor you trust on the reasoning behind that bump. Possibly C&M?

I suspect, although I'm not knowledgeable at all that due to your imbalance, the pitch of the back/front panels may be misaligned to make that bump happen? But again, I tailor you trust should be able to diagnose it and then you could go back to that firm and ask again because it is a catastrophe and a respectable firm would let you walk out without offering assistance.

100%. I’m going to take it into C&M when I’m back in the UK - already emailed

 

[zspasic1]

Hello, just received this vintage Polo Ralph Lauren DB jacket and need some advice as to whether it can be shortened 1” without compromising the balance of the jacket too much.

I already had pants in the matching fabric, so I was ecstatic to find this in good condition in my size. From the measurements, it should have fit pretty spot on, but upon trying it on, it is a bit too long.

I’ve pinned it up 1” from the jacket hem just to see how it would look. Also need to get the sleeves shortened and take in the waist/back a touch. But what do you think? Is it feasible to shorten the length on this jacket?

 

[stylecounsel1]

I love my favourite RL tan jacket so I bought a similar blue one. The tan one is POLO (yellow writing on blue background) with patch pockets and working cuffs the blue one is POLO logo white writing in white box "Polo by Ralph Lauren" with flap pockets and non working cuffs but seems slightly better made albeit dry clean only. Its length is about 2cm shorter so better for me although the longer tan one is still a good fit.

The fit is good except when I look at the blue one, one of the shoulders looks wrong. In the picture, one shoulder slopes down smoothly but the other looks more boxy. The tan one looks more symetrical even though my anatomical shoulders differ a little.

Is there something wrong with the blue jacket in it's construction? Should I return it? They have another the same cut as the tan one but blue with patch pockets, longer, etc so I could exchange. What do you think? Thanks

 

[zspasic1]

I love my favourite RL tan jacket so I bought a similar blue one. The tan one is POLO (yellow writing on blue background) with patch pockets and working cuffs the blue one is POLO logo white writing in white box "Polo by Ralph Lauren" with flap pockets and non working cuffs but seems slightly better made albeit dry clean only. Its length is about 2cm shorter so better for me although the longer tan one is still a good fit.

The fit is good except when I look at the blue one, one of the shoulders looks wrong. In the picture, one shoulder slopes down smoothly but the other looks more boxy. The tan one looks more symetrical even though my anatomical shoulders differ a little.

Is there something wrong with the blue jacket in it's construction? Should I return it? They have another the same cut as the tan one but blue with patch pockets, longer, etc so I could exchange. What do you think? Thanks

The blue one’s shoulders look fine to me. If it’s washed cotton, as it appears to be, it’s gonna have a little asymmetry by nature of the fabric. Could also be the spalla camicia being a little more pronounced on the left. But nothing to obsess over. It looks good!

If the jacket fits well otherwise, I would keep it

 

[OGE1815]

I love my favourite RL tan jacket so I bought a similar blue one. The tan one is POLO (yellow writing on blue background) with patch pockets and working cuffs the blue one is POLO logo white writing in white box "Polo by Ralph Lauren" with flap pockets and non working cuffs but seems slightly better made albeit dry clean only. Its length is about 2cm shorter so better for me although the longer tan one is still a good fit.

The fit is good except when I look at the blue one, one of the shoulders looks wrong. In the picture, one shoulder slopes down smoothly but the other looks more boxy. The tan one looks more symetrical even though my anatomical shoulders differ a little.

Is there something wrong with the blue jacket in it's construction? Should I return it? They have another the same cut as the tan one but blue with patch pockets, longer, etc so I could exchange. What do you think? Thanks

I think it looks good mate.

Is the camera angle slightly different for each photo?

 

[zspasic1]

Hello, just received this vintage Polo Ralph Lauren DB jacket and need some advice as to whether it can be shortened 1” without compromising the balance of the jacket too much.

I already had pants in the matching fabric, so I was ecstatic to find this in good condition in my size. From the measurements, it should have fit pretty spot on, but upon trying it on, it is a bit too long.

I’ve pinned it up 1” from the jacket hem just to see how it would look. Also need to get the sleeves shortened and take in the waist/back a touch. But what do you think? Is it feasible to shorten the length on this jacket?

Just following up on this. Took the suit to my tailor, and he advised me to proceed with shortening the jacket 1”. Also taking in the waist, shortening the sleeve, and widening the pants to help balance the slightly large jacket.

 

[joorinainen]

SuSu trousers are severely limited if you're going for a fuller cut and aren't very slim yourself. For example, I have larger thighs and the SuSu builder maxes out its thigh measurement way too slim for what I'd want to wear.

Jackets are fine though.

Actually quite the contrary. You can make a custom pair of SS trousers for a small upcharge and make as full of a cut you like.

 

[Themistocles]

Any advice on if you can alter a pair of trousers that are a touch too “flat” feeling when standing and a little tight when sitting down? Will letting out the seat help fix this? I have thicker thighs/seat area so tend to go looser these days and just take the waist in, but these are like 90% there. https://theanthology.net/shop/trousers/civilman-trousers-taupe-cotton-drill