The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Torzano]

I have a pair of chinos that the waist is too big. It causes bunching of fabric when I have a belt on. Would taking in the waist remedy this problem?

 

[Ttailor]



Do Despos or any other tailors have thoughts on the collar gap and shoulder dimple (on top of the shoulder)? It may be worth noting that there's a bit of pressure on my shoulder at the seam (where the sleeve meets the body).

This is a MTM linen suit and it seems to fit well in other aspects. I took it to Enzo Caruso in Los Angeles, a wonderful bespoke tailor by all accounts. He simply pulled the jacket up on my neck and told me to wear it for a month, buttoned and frequently pulling down on the jacket, until the collar and shoulders molded to my frame. He also told me he would not change anything about the cut for future commissions. Indeed, when I pull down the jacket, the collar gap disappears, but that's not really the natural state of the jacket.

Thanks for the advice. Video below, let me know if more images are needed.

What I noticed is a very slight tension across the very upper back which terminates mid shoulder.
The shoulder seam may be slightly too hollow or straight there for your particular shoulder shape/ slope/body type.

Or, maybe you do need a very marginal lengthening of the cb, and neck point, which would be blended down to the original shoulder point. In other words more shoulder slope by raising the cb rather than lowering at the shoulder point.

Likely a moot point though in this particular jacket. It is more of a change to be done at the pattern stage or early fitting stage of a custom made garment.

 

[yoshiwaan]

Hello,

I've ordered a linen shift from Propercloth and I'm having trouble working out why it looks so bad fit wise and what to do about it. I've not ordered or really worn much linen before so it might just be me not understanding the properties of the cloth or maybe it's just the cloth that I ordered, but I digress, (poorly lit and including half a lightswitch) pictures:





I don't like the huge folds of cloth on the back, around the belly or under my arms from the front. It seems to be extremely rippled (not charming linen wrinkles), as if there's far too much fabric all over the place.

Any suggestions?
* Do I need to hugely let out the waist and bottom width measurements so that it's less tapered and thus becomes a baggy shirt?
* Is the fabric just too thin to drape properly (it's just a different colour of this if it helps).
* Do I need darts and width reductions to try and reduce the back fabric?
* If I lift my arms up the yolk looks way too large, but it sits quite nicely on the shoulders with my arms down, any adjustment needed there?

I'm lost, I've not had a shirt so far off from Propercloth.

Using a random google image search ideal fit would be something like this or this

Any help is appreciated.

 

[angusangus]

Hi experts -- I'm swallowing my pride and seeking some help. I'd be truly delighted if any of the regulars would comment on these shirt and trouser patterns:

First issues I've picked up:
1. My pleats are opening more than they should.
2. The pants tend to pull against my knees a bit more than normal when I walk. Does this mean the back rise should be made slightly higher than the front rise to compensate for front-back pelvis tilt?
3. The shirt is a fair bit off around my chest/shoulders. Shoulder slope issue?

 

[Foxtorpedo]

Hello all!

Looking for opinions on jacket fit - Any critique welcome!

It's clearly tight around the waist (esp. blue one) - but this should be amendable?

I'm also going to add ca. 1 inch to the sleeves.

Opinions?

 

[bobbynardo]

Hello, all. Blank Label recently made an MTM suit for me. While I'm generally happy with the final product, I would be really grateful for any feedback from the community on what could be done to improve the fit for this and any future MTM suits that I might commission from them. Many thanks in advance!





N.b. In photo above, the coat's bottom button isn't buttoned; rather, it just got caught on the edge of the jacket.

 

[mensimageconsultant]



Hello all! Looking for opinions on jacket fit - Any critique welcome! It's clearly tight around the waist (esp. blue one) - but this should be amendable? I'm also going to add ca. 1 inch to the sleeves. Opinions?

Sloped shoulders. Could use some padding to camouflage. How much, if any, horizontally depends on facial width, which is unknown.

 

[Foxtorpedo]

Sloped shoulders. Could use some padding to camouflage. How much, if any, horizontally depends on facial width, which is unknown.

Thanks! Hadn't even thought about my shoulders tbh, but they are def more on the sloped side.

How hard is it to add padding (both jackets are SuSu) and/or salvage the creasing?

 

[fire and zen]

This is very helpful, thanks. So you think the shoulders are too square on my frame, and that they should be more sloped?

And what is CB? Collar back? If so, could we raise the collar on this jacket too?

What I noticed is a very slight tension across the very upper back which terminates mid shoulder.
The shoulder seam may be slightly too hollow or straight there for your particular shoulder shape/ slope/body type.

Or, maybe you do need a very marginal lengthening of the cb, and neck point, which would be blended down to the original shoulder point. In other words more shoulder slope by raising the cb rather than lowering at the shoulder point.

Likely a moot point though in this particular jacket. It is more of a change to be done at the pattern stage or early fitting stage of a custom made garment.

 

[mensimageconsultant]



Thanks! Hadn't even thought about my shoulders tbh, but they are def more on the sloped side.

How hard is it to add padding (both jackets are SuSu) and/or salvage the creasing?

To where it makes a noticeable difference, it's probably not feasible; but unless a tailor chimes in here, a visit to one is the only way to find out. To be qualified to evaluate that, the tailor probably should have experience in making suits and not work in a laundromat. There's an article on tailor selection on the website.

 

[Ttailor]



This is very helpful, thanks. So you think the shoulders are too square on my frame, and that they should be more sloped?

And what is CB? Collar back? If so, could we raise the collar on this jacket too?

CB is centre back.
I did not specifically say I thought the shoulders are too square for your frame, i think the general interpretation of that paints a different picture in most people's minds. The tension line is mid shoulder.
The back shoulder seam may have too much of a hollow to it, your upper shoulder/ blade might be more full than average and the jacket does not account for it. Speaking as a patternmaker It made me think of two possibilites to fix what I saw.

Determining the fix would mean having it looked at in person. One cannot tell from the internet whether one solution or the other would work.
In a finished garment, some fixes are not possible- you cannot add fabric where none exists or not worth the money to take something apart and put it back together.
.

 

[Kolossaal]

Hello all,

I received my Luxire order a few days ago: a pair of twill trousers. The fitpics:









As can be seen, there is quite some room for improvement unfortunately. There is too much fabric in the crotch (they made the half hip measurement 21 inches instead of 20 like I asked, but I'm in contact with them about that) and around the thighs (under my bottom). They are also a tad too long and wide to my taste, both in general and at the bottom cuff. The improvements that I was thinking of myself for a next pair (that I would like to be a more slim fit) are as follows:

- taking in the waist with 1/4 inch (as at the moment they are a little bit too wide);
- taking in the half hip measurement with 1 inch (to reduce the excessive fabric in the crotch);
- reducing the back rise with 1/2 inch (so that the fabric under my bottom will be one straight line instead of excessive fabric that it looks like right now);
- taking in the thigh measurement with 1/2 inch (as it looks too wide to me right now)
- taking in the knee measurements with 1/4 inch (also a tad too wide to my taste)
- taking in the bottom cuff width to 7 inches

I will also contact Luxire about this, but I would like to have some comments from you, any help is appreciated!

 

[Brick]

Thoughts on the fit of this coat?

 

[fire and zen]



CB is centre back.
I did not specifically say I thought the shoulders are too square for your frame, i think the general interpretation of that paints a different picture in most people's minds. The tension line is mid shoulder.
The back shoulder seam may have too much of a hollow to it, your upper shoulder/ blade might be more full than average and the jacket does not account for it. Speaking as a patternmaker It made me think of two possibilites to fix what I saw.

Determining the fix would mean having it looked at in person. One cannot tell from the internet whether one solution or the other would work.
In a finished garment, some fixes are not possible- you cannot add fabric where none exists or not worth the money to take something apart and put it back together.
.

Thank you for clarifying, this is helpful. There is seam allowance of approx 2" pretty much everywhere and they'll adjust it free of charge for me. What alteration would you recommend? Taking out the center back? Or is this an issue with the shoulder?

 

[jeam3130]

I'm thinking about getting some cotton trousers let out at the waist. Im worried that this is gonna leave some visible lines. I took it to my tailor and he opened up some fabric in the back and material he would release is same same color as the pants. Any idea if there will be visible stitch lines? If so, do they usually look bad?