The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Limniscate]

Mr. Reeves/Mr. Despos:

If you could please provide some insight as to my pants, I'd really appreciate it.

Here's a pic from the basted fitting with no braces:

Here's a pic after the tailor enlarged the seat slightly and with braces. He said he couldn't do anything about the wrinkles without compromising comfort. Do you agree with him? Do the wrinkles have to do with my stance?

 

[Despos]

trouser needs the same adjustment that was done to the jacket. The jacket was pinned up across the back to erect the jacket, make the back shorter in relation to the front. If you pin the trouser in the same way across the back of the trouser just below the pockets, it will clean up the wrinkles under the seat and not effect the comfort. Don't know why the seat was let out, it looks way too big and sloppy. Looks like the waist seat and crotch need to be reduced

 

[Returningson]

Found my answer

 

[Limniscate]



trouser needs the same adjustment that was done to the jacket. The jacket was pinned up across the back to erect the jacket, make the back shorter in relation to the front. If you pin the trouser in the same way across the back of the trouser just below the pockets, it will clean up the wrinkles under the seat and not effect the comfort. Don't know why the seat was let out, it looks way too big and sloppy. Looks like the waist seat and crotch need to be reduced

Mr. Despos, thank you for your prompt reply. I may have lost some weight between the basted fitting and the final form, so is it something that's fixable by sending it back to him?

 

[bourbonbasted]

No fit pictures, but I have a question: A number of my shirts (about 10 at this point) have developed a horizontal tear in the left elbow either right below or above the flex point. This problem has only arisen within the past couple of months and has happened with both RTW and custom shirts.

I spoke with my shirt guy and he seems to think it's mostly regular wear-and-tear. While I'm sure that has something to do with it (every shirt with a tear is at least a year old) it seems odd that it's happening all at once with shirts that are ten years old and shirts that are practically new (in comparison). He suggested possibly adding some fabric around the elbow area, but my shirts are already pretty full through the arm (I don't want a bunch of bagging).

Worth noting that I have changed my workout routine in the past six months, so I thought that might be an issue. However, since it's only the left elbow, I'm not sure if that's really the cause...

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!

 

[indigoroots]

Would greatly appreciate some advice on what measurements to change with this MTM shirt. Most measurements are adjustable through the online ordering system (shoulder seam length, armhole diameter, bicep diameter, waist width, hip width, etc). I realize the bicep measurement is too small and will be changing that, but I don't think that accounts for all of the problems seen here. Thanks in advance.

Main issues:
1. Right shoulder bunching (both front and back)
2. Left shoulder loose on back side
3. Extra fabric in the lower back area

 

[Betelgeuse]

Would love to hear some feedback for this trousers.

Thanks!

 

[Limniscate]

Here's another photo from today:

 

[Shirtmaven]



No fit pictures, but I have a question: A number of my shirts (about 10 at this point) have developed a horizontal tear in the left elbow either right below or above the flex point. This problem has only arisen within the past couple of months and has happened with both RTW and custom shirts.

I spoke with my shirt guy and he seems to think it's mostly regular wear-and-tear. While I'm sure that has something to do with it (every shirt with a tear is at least a year old) it seems odd that it's happening all at once with shirts that are ten years old and shirts that are practically new (in comparison). He suggested possibly adding some fabric around the elbow area, but my shirts are already pretty full through the arm (I don't want a bunch of bagging).

Worth noting that I have changed my workout routine in the past six months, so I thought that might be an issue. However, since it's only the left elbow, I'm not sure if that's really the cause...

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!

you must be leaning on that elbow.. sometimes if the cuffs are too tight, it can cause stress at the elbow as well.
we have a way of patching an elbow, that is good , all things considered.
if your shirtmaker has fabric, then they can replace a sleeve

 

[Shirtmaven]



Would greatly appreciate some advice on what measurements to change with this MTM shirt. Most measurements are adjustable through the online ordering system (shoulder seam length, armhole diameter, bicep diameter, waist width, hip width, etc). I realize the bicep measurement is too small and will be changing that, but I don't think that accounts for all of the problems seen here. Thanks in advance. Main issues: 1. Right shoulder bunching (both front and back) 2. Left shoulder loose on back side 3. Extra fabric in the lower back area

the chest, is too tight the armhole and sleeve are way too small. the breaks at the sleeve from the side are normal.. except yours are too tight! your posture looks off, but that might be due to taking the photos yourself you have a right low shoulder that seems to push forward, hence the breaks the fullness in back is normal. add very deep darts. you can take more shape at the waist, but you will end up with an hourglass of a shirt.

 

[JSDNJ]

Just picked up a new suit (Italian chino Ludlow) for summer.

I got a 38R with their slimmer pants (had to order them) Does the jacket look too small? I ordered a 39R to compare as well. It isn't pressed and the vents are still closed but you get the idea. My concern is in the arms, when I try to 'hug' myself. My arm movement is a little restricted.

Don't mind the shorts, I was being lazy.









As an aside, anyone have experience with Ludlow slim pants? I like them slim but I am afraid the narrow leg opening might make my feet look too huge.

 

[bourbonbasted]



you must be leaning on that elbow.. sometimes if the cuffs are too tight, it can cause stress at the elbow as well.
we have a way of patching an elbow, that is good , all things considered.
if your shirtmaker has fabric, then they can replace a sleeve

Thanks, Carl!

On further reflection I do find I lean to that side more often when sitting at my desk. Another thing I thought of: while I generally wear a sport coat to the office, it's not long before I take it off and roll up my sleeves. The roll may be creating tightness in the forearm that's pushing pressure to the elbow. I think I'll add some width at the forearm, elbow and wrist, as well as increase the diameter of the armhole to reduce tension through the arm.

Thanks again!

 

[Shirtmaven]



Thanks, Carl!

On further reflection I do find I lean to that side more often when sitting at my desk. Another thing I thought of: while I generally wear a sport coat to the office, it's not long before I take it off and roll up my sleeves. The roll may be creating tightness in the forearm that's pushing pressure to the elbow. I think I'll add some width at the forearm, elbow and wrist, as well as increase the diameter of the armhole to reduce tension through the arm.

Thanks again!

rolling up to below the elbow. may cause stress on the sleeve
i roll my sleeves to above the elbow..
i would not change the armhole.
just at the elbow through the forearm.
does the cuff feel tight? sometimes fused cuffs shrink more then they should

 

[bourbonbasted]



rolling up to below the elbow. may cause stress on the sleeve
i roll my sleeves to above the elbow..
i would not change the armhole.
just at the elbow through the forearm.
does the cuff feel tight? sometimes fused cuffs shrink more then they should

I usually just fold them over twice so that they are rolled to mid-forearm. I'm not even sure why I do it, really -- not as if I'm toiling in the fields. I think (given an office environment) I may look silly rolling them above the elbow, so maybe I'll just try to wear them buttoned going forward.

The cuffs aren't really tight, even after washing. In fact I have my left cuff cut with a larger diameter to accommodate a watch and it's far from snug around the watch. I think the elbow and forearm may be the sources of the problem. I'll ask to give each an extra half an inch or so next go-round.

 

[ter1413]



I have a question about the proper way to hem chinos.  I just picked up two pairs of Incotex cotton chinos from a local alterations tailor I've had good luck with in the past.  To my surprise, they finished both pairs like jeans: that is, with visible double seam, leaving no material for further alterations (except I suppose for shortening).  This is not what I've expected, not what I've seen before on this type of pants, and there's no apparent way to fix it because they didn't leave enough fabric to do a more formal rolled under hem.  [COLOR=FF00AA]Am I unreasonable in thinking chinos should not be finished this way?[/COLOR]

Yes.
The proper way to hem chinos is the way that you REQUEST them to be hemmed.

If you would have said that you asked for it one way and the tailor hemmed it the other, then you have a point. If this was not the case....you really don't.