The Rubinacci Thread.

[whnay.]

The pockets are a major blow to a jacket that otherwise has a lot of potential. I've never seen this design from them, Luca has a few coats with vented crescent pockets but nothing with a flap. I agree with others, it looks odd.

I love the fabric and having seen it in person I can attest that its a real beauty - there is at least three suits lengths still available at the London store for those interested.

 

[whnay.]

On a related topic - I'm going back to London to pick up a few things including the often obessed over brown suit which I had made up in a Smith's 9/10 oz. fresco with fancy lining. I also opted for the Foo approved airforce blue house fresco in a 3/2 suit. A few shirts, ties, and a pocket square round out the last order of the year. I'll take pics for you guys.

 

[TRINI]



I'll take pics for you guys.

Please do.

 

[zalb916]

What I find interesting about the pockets, which most of us seem to agree look odd, is that the dude wrote the following on his blog in an earlier post about his commission from Rubinacci:

"'As it is your first jacket, I would like to make you something that you will wear forever – something very versatile and classic,' said Luca. 'I like to experiment on the second or third jacket, when I know the customer’s taste a little better.'"

In my opinion, the jacket seems to be the exact opposite. I suppose it can still be versatile. It's not as if he won't wear the coat in certain situations because of the pockets. And I suppose those pockets could be considered classic to some. I guess I just interpreted Luca's statement as more "your first jacket won't look weird." The pockets, frankly, make the jacket look weird.

 

[TRINI]

I can only assume that Crompton intends for it to be a casual jacket.

Let's not forget that he went out and got these made from Huntsman.

 

[Redwoood]

I believe many of Crompton's bespoke commissions have some gimmick or another. That's how he likes it.

 

[Gus]

I actually like the close up photo of the pocket taken from the side. The shape of the flap and pocket detail is very nice, even graceful. However, the photo from the front and seeing the jacket as a whole, I have to agree with the other comments that the pockets appear to low and probably not the right choice for a short jacket.

 

[mmkn]

Nice bespeaking Mr. Crompton.

It passes my muster of seeing the man [S.C.] first, then his clothes [M.R.].

- M

 

[quar]



On a related topic - I'm going back to London to pick up a few things including the often obessed over brown suit which I had made up in a Smith's 9/10 oz. fresco with fancy lining. I also opted for the Foo approved airforce blue house fresco in a 3/2 suit. A few shirts, ties, and a pocket square round out the last order of the year. I'll take pics for you guys.

 

[Ich_Dien]



I can only assume that Crompton intends for it to be a casual jacket.

Let's not forget that he went out and got these made from Huntsman.

To be honest I think he gets what he is given in most of these cases as they are freebies in exchange for a puff piece on his blog.

 

[MrKaizen]



I thought his Poole DB looked good, despite the howls here on SF.

Re: this Rubinacci, It's also a pity because it looked like it was shaping up to be a great piece in this earlier photo at a fitting:



Then again I guess we should all keep in back of our minds the limitations of a single, static photo when evaluating fits.

The fitting here is amazing

 

[NewYorkIslander]

I don't dig the pockets, but I don't see the fit being half bad for a first commission, free or not. I also think the jacket is a bit short for most situations, but for him, and his stylistic interpretations, it works. Again, it wouldn't work for the board room, but for a style blogger seems ideal. Most of you guys seem to get that.

 

[Mark Seitelman]

The coat is too short. The whole look is skimpy.

The accordion wrinkling on the sleeves is due to lack of a lining. This is a good example of carrying too far the mania for unlined coats. There is a reason for linings.

Rubinacci should have a recall.

 

[Sanguis Mortuum]



If you go back and look at the lapel shape during the fitting the whole thing works much better - in my opinion it is precisely because of the strength of the lapel in the photo of the fitting.

The quarters are more open at the fitting too, which I also prefer.

 

[Cravate_Noire]

I can only assume that Crompton intends for it to be a casual jacket.

Let's not forget that he went out and got these made from Huntsman.

To be honest I think he gets what he is given in most of these cases as they are freebies in exchange for a puff piece on his blog.

Still fritzl's guess was ca.1k€ too low...

Very soon a totally untructured jacket should be ready for me, even without any canvassing or inlay in the lapels...the man who makes it is ca.80years old and never did stuff like that, so I wonder if he is going to stuff a broomstick in all Italian-tailor asses (incl. those I use) by sheer cutting technique and finishing.