The Quintessential Dress Shoe: Black Cap Toe Oxford

[Chowkin]

Check out this Instagram post, especially the comments

https://instagram.com/p/BcDIdyilORc/

 

[flanker2000fr]

Check out this Instagram post, especially the comments

https://instagram.com/p/BcDIdyilORc/

Excellent. Thanks for this.

 

[wurger]

Check out this Instagram post, especially the comments

https://instagram.com/p/BcDIdyilORc/

Confirmed it's Cheaney, thanks Chowkin.

Not sure why is Armoury so secretive, us shoe nuts will find out pretty quickly.

 

[flanker2000fr]

Confirmed it's Cheaney, thanks Chowkin.

Not sure why is Armoury so secretive, us shoe nuts will find out pretty quickly.

That might be because Cheaney in HK is officially distributed by Tassels, which is literally across the alley from The Armoury Landmark. And therefore they could be seen as competing head to head with the official distributor. In any case, between the Yohei Fukuda last and all the small details we've been harping on (closed channel sole, distinctive stitching, simulated cap toe), these represent quite a substantial differentiation compared to the regular Cheaney range.

Case in point, Cheaney is probably not a maker I'd normally consider (I would go to C&J main line or Carmina, by default), and it didn't take me long to decide for the Pedder.

 

[shoesforever]

J.Fitzpatrick Yessler on the classic round(almond shaped) TMG last without the triple stitching:

 

[Carl1955]

wasn't people guessing Cheaney? incidently isn't Cheaney making Bodileys' own line as well?

I've recently spoken to Sarah at Bodileys, as I wanted to know who made these boots for them which I've ordered this weekend
https://www.bodileys.com/catalog/product/gallery/image/2249/id/1396/

Apparently Cheaney make there London Collection
https://www.bodileys.com/shoes/the-london-collection.html

But another English supplier make their top of the range Mayfair Collection
https://www.bodileys.com/shoes/the-mayfair-collection.html

Carl.

 

[jssdc]

Mayfair collection looks like Crockett and Jones.

 

[Carl1955]

Mayfair collection looks like Crockett and Jones.

Good guess I'd say, very good!!!! . . . lol

Carl.

 

[clee1982]

Good guess I'd say, very good!!!! . . . lol

Carl.

Also 341 / 318 / 72 all corresponds to real CJ last as well (though don’t think any modern CJ is on 318/72)

 

[Carl1955]

Also 341 / 318 / 72 all corresponds to real CJ last as well (though don’t think any modern CJ is on 318/72)

Correct, as do BOD125 = Cheaney 125 last on their London Collection.


Carl.

 

[Chowkin]

Their sole looks like the ones on Trickers 1829, but the insole is the same as Cheaney's, the same leather insoles made in England also shows up.

Just saw this photo in the Cheaney Imperial Collection thread:

 

[flanker2000fr]

Just saw this photo in the Cheaney Imperial Collection thread:

View attachment 935485

Thanks. This confirms what others were saying.

 

[mrjamescost]

I feel the black cap toe Oxford bug slithering onto my brain. I see myself going for the likes of Crockett & Jones hand grade, such as the Lonsdale. Perhaps I will eventually end up with a EG Chelsea if I can get it reduced a bit. Talking of Cheaney, I know it isn’t thought of too highly, but I must say, the Buckingham is looking very nice. If I found these reduced a bit, to say around £400, I would definitely consider them.

 

[wurger]

Any consideration for Alfred Sargent Armfield?

 

[mrjamescost]

Any consideration for Alfred Sargent Armfield?

Hello. Is this directed towards me? If so, yes, it has crossed my mind. However, despite a glowing review from yourself, I still wonder why the Armfield would be over a hundred pound cheaper than C&J Handgrade or Cheaney Imperial. Who knows, I might end up like you, owning all of them in time. No hurry though.