The Look goes on...

[Thin White Duke]

It's more achievable for us, now. A £100 thing is maybe not going to do it these days but a £1,000+ thing? That could be too much, we are not haute couture.

There was always a limit somewhere. I remember going a bit hungry for some things and effectively having only one 'good' outfit at a time.

My one regret is not keeping it going into the late 80s when some weeks I was earning over £400, but that for me was leaving behind childish things and 'growing up'.

It’s fun to look back at the cycle of acquisition.
As a teenager and young Mod in the late seventies I had my milk round money! Then I worked in a pub but was in a band and buying gear will swallow up any and all funds at that age!
For a lot of people in their late teens and early twenties they are single and earning so it could be a golden period. I was a broke student trying to make my grant (remember them?) stretch!
Then for a lot of people marriage, mortgage, children come along and they have to ‘put away childish things’ as you say and build some equity or something. That came late to me!
But after a while if your career progressed and you managed to get to a point where you have some disposable income, if you still have an interest you can shell out for previously unobtainable things. Most people lose interest at this point hence the plethora of hoodies, sweatpants and dad jeans!

 

[Mr Knightley]

Good to reminisce, especially at the time of ‘the rolling year’ ?

I remember that time between about 18 and when I married (for the first time) at the ripe old age of 26 as being a golden period. My parents were reasonably well off and didn’t screw me for too much and I spent many a happy hour buying clothes first at John Simons and then, over time, in some of the very expensive shops in London like Browns, Simpson of Piccadilly and various West End stores.

In fact the only time I was not able to spare much for clothing was when I was going through a divorce (who said divorce was too easy?).

Now, as back in the day, bespoke stuff sits (fairly) happily alongside High Street pieces in my wardrobe. And, when I think about it, both can give equal pleasure - or misery.

 

[Botolph]

I suppose @Thin White Duke with these JMM sunglasses we are talking about the absolute pinnacle of style. Perhaps recalling the days when it was so important to seek out the very best you could afford and try to outdo all your mates - something I rarely achieved

Some time ago, I remember @covskin sharing the beautiful little collection of Turnbull and Asser hankies he had bought. @Botolph often sports tip-top active wear. I suppose I am wondering if aspiring to 'the Look' in 2021 still demands the same pursuit of the Best as it did back in the day?

@Mr Knightley I"ve recently bought a couple choice rugby tops from Barbarian Rugbywear. One is a purple/white classic hooped one, the other is a black/gold/white one(NHL club colors). They suit me well, are relatively warm and layer easily, are well-made, and cover most of the tattoos so emmets don't ask "where I got my ink, bro"
Aside from that, the wife got me two long-sleeve Paul & Shark tops for Christmas- one a dark navy/cream rugby, and one a black pique polo shirt. Very nice indeed.
Also took order of two blazers made by Bookster. One has a subtle navy herringbone pattern with patch/flap pockets and welted breast pocket, 3-roll-2 button configuration(antique silver buttons), two-button cuffs, and hook vent. This one's for the Fall/Winter/Spring. The other is a navy "Cool Wool" super 100s with 4-hole bronze metal buttons(3-roll-2 configuration), three open patch pockets, and hook vent. This is the late Spring/Summer/early-Fall blazer. I'm very pleased with them and my old blazers will be going to charity shops(all but the one I got married in: a two-button peak lapel herringbone navy one).
I'll try and get photos up of some of these things as soon as.

 

[Kingstonian]

It’s fun to look back at the cycle of acquisition.
As a teenager and young Mod in the late seventies I had my milk round money! Then I worked in a pub but was in a band and buying gear will swallow up any and all funds at that age!
For a lot of people in their late teens and early twenties they are single and earning so it could be a golden period. I was a broke student trying to make my grant (remember them?) stretch!
Then for a lot of people marriage, mortgage, children come along and they have to ‘put away childish things’ as you say and build some equity or something. That came late to me!
But after a while if your career progressed and you managed to get to a point where you have some disposable income, if you still have an interest you can shell out for previously unobtainable things. Most people lose interest at this point hence the plethora of hoodies, sweatpants and dad jeans!

Older people tend to have more stuff than when they were young. So they may have wardrobes filled with clothes and therefore less need to acquire more. They may upgrade to better quality but might not want the most expensive, ‘must have’ items.

 

[Thin White Duke]

Worn recently - details on the blog ...

 

[Thin White Duke]

Older people tend to have more stuff than when they were young. So they may have wardrobes filled with clothes and therefore less need to acquire more. They may upgrade to better quality but might not want the most expensive, ‘must have’ items.

It’s fun to read the reminiscences of the original full-on dedicated Mods and how due to the one-upmanship of the times they would lust after some exclusive item that they craved and saved for ages. I remember reading one story of a purple suede trench coat that some lad finally acquired. I wonder how much use that got before it was discarded or forgotten. We can write these things off to the foolishness of youth but these days I usually have longevity in mind when I’m shelling out for an expensive item.

 

[Luigi_M]

I usually have longevity in mind when I’m shelling out for an expensive item.

Me too, and as a result of this almost all of my most coveted clothes and shoes are likely to outlive me.
Sad thing, my son is not my size; good thing, he's slowly leading himself to appreciate good clothing and of course I gladly second him, even if I'm still the one who pays ...

 

[donkeyjacket2]

Anyone got any experience with traditional double breasted suit jackets? just bought this daks db jacket for cheap says 40 chest on label but states 23 pit to pit on listing, im thinking it will be ok because it buttons up more to the right?.

 

[Mr Knightley]

Anyone got any experience with traditional double breasted suit jackets? just bought this daks db jacket for cheap says 40 chest on label but states 23 pit to pit on listing, im thinking it will be ok because it buttons up more to the right?.

Looks like a good pick-up mate. I have a 40 DAKS suit but it is SB. I'll measure it and report back.

If this one is British made it is probably pre-2005 ish and with a generous cut. I got one in 2003 that was made in England and one in 2007 that was made in Turkey.

You may be able to play around with the button placement, if you want to avoid major work.

Edit: Mine measures 22in. pit to pit. It is roomy by 2021 standards but not massively so:

 

[donkeyjacket2]

Cheers mate, nice jacket. I guess i'll find out when i get it but i'm thinking it will be ok, planning on wearing a thick jumper underneath anyway. I have a SB jacket what is 22 p t p what fits well but feels a bit tight if the button was more to the right so i think an inch would help.

 

[covskin]

Anyone got any experience with traditional double breasted suit jackets? just bought this daks db jacket for cheap says 40 chest on label but states 23 pit to pit on listing, im thinking it will be ok because it buttons up more to the right?.

Six inches bigger than 40 but a double breasted should fit a bit roomier in a late 80s/early 90s way.

 

[Luigi_M]

I'm fond of DAKS clothing and have a suit very similar to @donkeyjacket2 's coat (nice buy his, btw).
I think it's more recent, but still a good one, labeled an UK 40 with 34" (double pleated) waist trousers and the only alteration I had made is lenghtening strides to the max, while slimming the hem at 21 centimeters. Jacked was slightly wider than needed but I simply moved the buttons outward of about 1,5 cm and called it done.
Pit to pit is 55 cm (about 21" 3/8) which fits well my 187 cm. x 83 kg frame.

 

[Swampster]

Anyone got any experience with traditional double breasted suit jackets? just bought this daks db jacket for cheap says 40 chest on label but states 23 pit to pit on listing, im thinking it will be ok because it buttons up more to the right?.

The pit to pit measurement should be as worn, not with the jacket open, so DB and SB shouldn't matter. Measuring across the back would probably give an easier measure.

I have a SB DAKS flannel suit which I bought last year. I don't know how old it is but it is quite generously cut. That might put it in the 80s or 90s but it has more shape than you sometimes get from back then.

 

[VinceCompost]

The pit to pit measurement should be as worn, not with the jacket open, so DB and SB shouldn't matter.

Yeah, this. If the person measuring knows what they are doing, they will have buttoned the jacket as-worn and placed it flat before measuring. Sizing being equal, even a straight jacket measured pit-to-pit should produce the same measurement as a single breasted one

 

[Mr Knightley]

I'm fond of DAKS clothing and have a suit very similar to @donkeyjacket2 's coat (nice buy his, btw).
I think it's more recent, but still a good one, labeled an UK 40 with 34" (double pleated) waist trousers and the only alteration I had made is lenghtening strides to the max, while slimming the hem at 21 centimeters. Jacked was slightly wider than needed but I simply moved the buttons outward of about 1,5 cm and called it done.
Pit to pit is 55 cm (about 21" 3/8) which fits well my 187 cm. x 83 kg frame.
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DAKS have an interesting history. I believe they were the first company to produce ‘self-supporting’ trousers.

I particularly like their house check and have a cap (which has a brief history of DAKS woven into the lining) and scarf in the check.