The Look goes on...

[Mr Knightley]

Never worn a cummerbund with Black Tie, from first wearing back in the 80s when that was exceptional. Now that the cummerbund itself is the exception I decided to finally get one, not the usual black one but a white one. I think there is an argument to be made for the white cummerbund

* white is not problematic in Black Tie as a colour, Black Tie *is* black/white

* a white cummerbund in Black Tie is cognate with the white waistcoat of White Tie

* historically the cummerbund is the item that has seen the most variation in Black Tie, including examples in white

Also, it just looks too good, and with a white marcella bow tie it produces a creative Black Tie/White Tie hybrid well within the tradition, even if outside the rules.

I like the sound of it cov.

By raising the point here (rather than on the CM board) you are expanding this thread too! Where did you get the cummerbund?

The first time I wore black tie nearly 20 years ago I wrongly wore one with a DB jacket - obviously, if you are meant to keep the buttons fastened even when sitting the cummerbund seems redundant. On the few occasions that I do wear a DJ it is a DB so I have not worn one since that occasion.

Wearing a white bow with a black tie rig got many iGents into a state after Obama wore that combo at some point, I recall...But, as black tie is semi-formal, why not break the current 'rules'.

Is it time for an evening wear survey?

 

[Mr Knightley]

Another outfit from my recent hols that bears a passing resemblance to the Look?

https://www.styleforum.net/threads/...ar-casual-style.253842/page-1615#post-9045947

 

[covskin]

I like the sound of it cov.

By raising the point here (rather than on the CM board) you are expanding this thread too! Where did you get the cummerbund?

The first time I wore black tie nearly 20 years ago I wrongly wore one with a DB jacket - obviously, if you are meant to keep the buttons fastened even when sitting the cummerbund seems redundant. On the few occasions that I do wear a DJ it is a DB so I have not worn one since that occasion.

Wearing a white bow with a black tie rig got many iGents into a state after Obama wore that combo at some point, I recall...But, as black tie is semi-formal, why not break the current 'rules'.

Is it time for an evening wear survey?

Got it at Hawes and Curtis

https://www.hawesandcurtis.co.uk/accesoriesevening?acc=167

All very commendably restrained* and each having some justification. I did search the State of Black Tie thread on here just to be sure but I don't need their approval, not that it would be forthcoming anyway. The cummerbund is fairly thin, which is good, and has a button loop but the clip is black plastic and could do with swapping out for silvery metal

* except for their use of the #word dapper

 

[MonkeySpanner]

Back in the day about an eight inch opening (we called it 16 inch then).

Today I go for just over - 8.25 to 8.5 for tailored trousers and a 'half-break'.

Clearly your height, size of your feet, style of shoe worn will all play a part in your consideration as to opening width.

Informative stuff thanks, perhaps there was regional variation? i recall browniecj mentioning that his trousers were 18 inch opening. I personally think there is a lot of room for personal taste these days, when i wear 8 inch trousers with my crombie it looks like i have chicken legs a bit. the wider trousers hide my skinny legs a bit more.

 

[Botolph]

Got it at Hawes and Curtis

https://www.hawesandcurtis.co.uk/accesoriesevening?acc=167

All very commendably restrained* and each having some justification. I did search the State of Black Tie thread on here just to be sure but I don't need their approval, not that it would be forthcoming anyway. The cummerbund is fairly thin, which is good, and has a button loop but the clip is black plastic and could do with swapping out for silvery metal

* except for their use of the #word dapper

Interesting topic. I think that depending on in what circles one runs in, and how often one dresses in evening wear, one can adhere more or less to the strict rules or not. For me, my black tie ensemble is very conservative, as I only bring it out once a year or less.
Turndown collar, waffled bib, peak lapels, one button, no vent, barathea trim on seams(and trouser seams), black cummerbund, onyx/mother-of-pearl studs and cufflinks, black barathea bowtie, black patent leather formal shoes.
I could absolutely see swapping out one’s black cummerbund for a white, which seems like it’s within the boundaries of good taste. The navy? Maybe for more light-hearted evening events where you know that many men will be wearing “their” version of “black tie”(back suit with a black necktie).
Red cummerbund: A bit Count Dracula, blah? Or maybe for a Christmas event?

 

[covskin]

Well I'm not at the smoking jacket stage yet, maybe when I'm older! This is how I see the colours

Black - default

Midnight blue - default for the midnight blue suit option

Maroon - the only acceptable colour option for accessories

White - reasons above

If I ever go for an alternative then it will be black

 

[cocostella]

I like this discussion and I kinda’ dig those loafers MK. No longer have a black tie rig, myself. Had a nice Hickey Freeman tux I inherited from my dad back in the late 90s/early 00s, but tore the pants and scuffed up the sleeve going drunken 007 on a motorcycle in San Francisco one night. Since then I’ve just made due with black suits from various makers... Kind of a cop out, but can’t justify the $ in the circles I run in now.

 

[covskin]

The thing I like about Black Tie is that, for all the rules and uniformity, every Black Tie outfit is different. I don't get to wear it enough though. When I started in the 80s you would see old fellas with outfits shabby and frayed from use, for a young bloke buying a faded ex-hire outfit was actually a good idea, lots of single-cuff shirts and jackets closed with links still around, and young women your age too!

 

[Thin White Duke]

The thing I like about Black Tie is that, for all the rules and uniformity, every Black Tie outfit is different. I don't get to wear it enough though. When I started in the 80s you would see old fellas with outfits shabby and frayed from use, for a young bloke buying a faded ex-hire outfit was actually a good idea, lots of single-cuff shirts and jackets closed with links still around, and young women your age too!

Spot on about the possibilities to make it your own within a fairly strict boundary. My own rig is very similar to what Botolph posted although it’s gathering dust these days. Wish I had more occasion to dust it off.
Back in the sixties wearing black tie wasn’t such a huge step. My dad would get penguinned up at least a couple of times a year for a New Year party and maybe some other formal occasion. Lads whose dads were in the masons would have seen them get plenty of use out theirs. I like how when you watch Mad Men they clearly convey that the fellas were comfortable in their tuxes as they had them on with some frequency. Here’s a pic of my Dad and other family members and friends taken at our house New Year’s Eve/Day 1966-67. I think they’d all been out to a ‘dinner dance’ and came back to ours for drinks. Us kids were all fast asleep upstairs. There’s another pic of all the ladies, all in floor length dresses of course.

(My dad with glass in hand, standing second from the left)

Everyone in that pic is long since dead with the exception of the young fella with the wispy hair third from the right. That’s my ‘uncle’ Alan who a few months before this pic got married to my Mam’s sister on World Cup Final day! Used to play tight end for Gosforth alongside Roger Uttley. I saw him when I was home in September. He’s now a mild mannered retired headmaster, hair long since departed!

Carpae Dium lads!

 

[covskin]

Haha, the bloke with the *** in his mouth, he is Mr Black Tie, completely owns it

 

[MonkeySpanner]

He looks like the average old bloke you see in the working mans club, top bloke.

 

[Thin White Duke]

He looks like the average old bloke you see in the working mans club, top bloke.

Haha good spot, that’s my godfather - ‘uncle’ Gerald. He was probably the most blue-collar of the group, an old coal miner. We all went on holiday to Scotland en masse back then. He was wary of filling his tank full as there was so much petrol syphoning going on in those days so he only used to put a couple of gallons in at a time. My dad warned him that stations were few and far between in the highlands and sure enough he ran out of petrol and had to call the RAC!

Hard to believe I’m older now than my ol’ fella was in that pic!

Interesting though that’s Gerald probably had his big-shouldered peak-lapel double-breasted since the fifties whereas my Dad’s looks more contemporary with the slim fitting shawl lapel. Not even sure if he has on a cummerbund, I know he did have one but can’t tell if he’s wearing it here.

 

[Botolph]

Haha good spot, that’s my godfather - ‘uncle’ Gerald. He was probably the most blue-collar of the group, an old coal miner. We all went on holiday to Scotland en masse back then. He was wary of filling his tank full as there was so much petrol syphoning going on in those days so he only used to put a couple of gallons in at a time. My dad warned him that stations were few and far between in the highlands and sure enough he ran out of petrol and had to call the RAC!

Hard to believe I’m older now than my ol’ fella was in that pic!

Interesting though that’s Gerald probably had his big-shouldered peak-lapel double-breasted since the fifties whereas my Dad’s looks more contemporary with the slim fitting shawl lapel. Not even sure if he has on a cummerbund, I know he did have one but can’t tell if he’s wearing it here.

Great pic and great story!

 

[MonkeySpanner]

Haha good spot, that’s my godfather - ‘uncle’ Gerald. He was probably the most blue-collar of the group, an old coal miner. We all went on holiday to Scotland en masse back then. He was wary of filling his tank full as there was so much petrol syphoning going on in those days so he only used to put a couple of gallons in at a time. My dad warned him that stations were few and far between in the highlands and sure enough he ran out of petrol and had to call the RAC!

Hard to believe I’m older now than my ol’ fella was in that pic!

Interesting though that’s Gerald probably had his big-shouldered peak-lapel double-breasted since the fifties whereas my Dad’s looks more contemporary with the slim fitting shawl lapel. Not even sure if he has on a cummerbund, I know he did have one but can’t tell if he’s wearing it here.

Great story, you can always tell an old miner when ya see one.

 

[Man-of-Mystery]

My late parents in evening drag, late 60s, maybe early 70s. I rather like my dad's burgundy peckham.