The best slim-fitting tuxedo <$1500

[d4nimal]

Hey guys - I have been dissecting styleforum for days going over every tuxedo post but I thought I could use some specific help.

I am 6 foot, 148 lb, with narrow sloping shoulders (?feminine shoulders - took me a while to be at peace with writing that), as well as a 30 waist. I own 2 SS suits, one napoli navy in 35R and a Washington 35R 3-piece. The shoulders on the 35 and 34 at SS fit me perfectly, which seems to throw me out of a lot of RTW stores (I can also fit a 36 ludlow usually at J. Crew).

I've heard and subscribe to the mantra "fit first - everything else comes after." That's why I was hoping you'd be able to steer me towards brands and labels that would be less likely to need major surgery to fit me.

In general, I am looking for a slim fitting tuxedo (half or full canvas) in preferable midnight blue shawl 1 button and flat front pants, but I am flexible with the lapel and black (not on the pleats). If you have experience and opinions about these tux's I've found (or any to suggest on your own), please share and I'd be very grateful.

# J. Crew - $790 - Ludlow shawl - This says navy but surely they mean midnight?

http://www.jcrew.com/browse/multi_p...d=845524441804053&bmUID=kcOjYit&splitNumber=3

# Suitsupply classic or shawl (though I strongly dislike the loud ones)

# Isaia Aquamarine $1409 at Barneys - I can't for the life of me find any more pictures of this or get a sense of how it would fit compared to the two above, but I have heard great things about the craftsmanship. However, fit first above that is important to me.

http://www.barneys.com/on/demandwar...t/Product-Show?pid=054015285&cgid=men&index=0

#Paul Stuart $848 - they have just a crappy icon for viewing this as well as a few close in shots, but again I can't tell anything about the suit or what it would fit like

http://www.paulstuart.com/product_i...56&MainCatId=14&HEADERMENUID=1&SUBPRODCATID=0

# Benjamin Sartorial Tuxedo $550 - Impressed with the stats for the price, would love to know more about the fit as this particular item as it doesn't seem to fit into their other fits I have found

http://www.ehaberdasher.com/servlet/the-15493/Benjamin-Sartorial-Tuxedo-cln--36R/Detail

# Gilt Martin Greenfield Tux - $999 - Hard for me to imagine buying a $999 tux I couldn't get my money back on, but Greenfield has a good reputation here. Bit chopped in back though.

http://www.gilt.com/sale/men/formal...greenfield-black-slim-fit-shawl-collar-tuxedo

# Hugo Boss tuxes? - can't find much in the way of experience on these

# RLBL - I went to the RL store in Philadelphia today and couldn't find a single tux that wasn't Polo, so wasn't able to get a better sense of the label. I've heard they fit slimmer than the other lines

#Things I've kinda poo poo'd (?justifiably?)
- Brooks Brothers (everything I've ever tried there has looked like I'm swimming in fabric - also walked in the store today and was pretty much completely ignored until I left FWIW)
- JAB (same, but worse somehow in fit)
- Polo RL
- HM - I did say fit first above finish but at the same time I am not trying to buy a tux made to the same level of execution as the rest of their clothes

I must have 30 tabs open on my computer trying to narrow down choices. If you can help me close some of them I'd be ever in your debt. Again, I'm sure many of you own BB suits you love (and I do know they have a rather slim fitting line that apparently not a lot of stores carry), but I want to look good in my tux. I don't want to be the guy with the ill-fitting beautifully made tuxedo.

Thanks again,

DR

 

[styleguy9934]

although i don't own one i really like the j crew ludlow tux although i would get a peak lapel. I like peak lapel because it makes the shoulders appear broader and it shows everyone else in the room that you dominate. As for your question about midnight vs navy in this case they are the same i believe.
http://www.jcrew.com/browse/multi_product_detail.jsp?externalProductCodes=50678-BL8133:17555-BL8133%3A50675-BL8133%3A22181-WT0002%3A62283-BK0001%3A73871-WT0002%3A20762-SP5425&amp;FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302078473&amp;bmUID=kbYPv7g&amp;splitNumber=3

 

[GBR]

You need to try them on, guessing what might fit from a few words in quite impossible. your start point might be to go to shops that sell what you reckon fits and start from there.

 

[d4nimal]

You need to try them on, guessing what might fit from a few words in quite impossible. your start point might be to go to shops that sell what you reckon fits and start from there.

Good point, and well taken - However it is relatively easy for the Ludlow and SS which I have tried. Other labels like Benjamin, RLBL, and Paul Stuart are a lot harder to find in person, so was hoping those with experience would be able to tell me the trend of how these labels fit in general. Thanks for your 2 cents regardless. The Isaia isn't in stock in Philadelphia as well *(edited for the relevance to above)

 

[styleguy9934]

You need to try them on, guessing what might fit from a few words in quite impossible. your start point might be to go to shops that sell what you reckon fits and start from there.

you could always get it tailored after you buy.

 

[d4nimal]

Good suggestion, though I must say I'm planning on having it tailored regardless of what I go with.

I might have been a bit unclear in my original post - I am not trying to get someone to tell me if an Isaia Sirio model will fit me exactly or not. What would really help is if someone were able to help me with how they fit in general and I can go from there. I would love to try on all these suits, and very well may take a trip to NY just to do that. But realistically I still won't be able to find them all in brick and mortar stores, so I need to do a little educated guessing. Thanks again for the input thus far.

 

[akatsuki]

I'd just go the Kent Wang route personally. Order a standard suit from him for fitting purposes, take some measurements and pics and tell him what you want in a tuxedo. You can also have the shoulder's done to your specs to square them off a bit,

Paul Stuart will be boxy generally (even the slimmer fit) unless it is Phineas Cole. Brooks Brothers is even more boxy. J Crew Ludlow is generally a little too slim fit. SuitSupply is okay stuff, MIC if you care (I do)...

Never tried the Benjamin, but would try it. What you need to do is take a good look at the measurements and make a call.

The Isaia at Barney's is now $1000 at your size, so you could just take a risk on it, but I'd still go Kent Wang.

 

[d4nimal]

Thanks. This is exactly the sort of info I'm looking for. Appreciate it

 

[jaywhyy]

You say you have sloping shoulders, thus I would avoid anything sackish or Neapolitan, so as much Isaia is fantastic, it probably isn't for you. You need padding. Of these, RLBL will have the strongest shoulder expression, so I'd try that.

Look for something with high armholes and strong shoulders; everything else can be tailored.

I disagree with KW MTM, simply because I think online MTM are huge risks.

 

[akatsuki]



You say you have sloping shoulders, thus I would avoid anything sackish or Neapolitan, so as much Isaia is fantastic, it probably isn't for you. You need padding. Of these, RLBL will have the strongest shoulder expression, so I'd try that. 

Look for something with high armholes and strong shoulders; everything else can be tailored. 

I disagree with KW MTM, simply because I think online MTM are huge risks. 

Admittedly I did have the benefit of going to a trunk show for KW to try on a regular suit and modifying from there. This would really only work if you are reasonably close to standard sizing with some modifications needed. The nice thing is you can order a suit, see how it fits, and then modify appropriately.

RLBL is probably a good choice due to the strong shoulder....

 

[d4nimal]

You say you have sloping shoulders, thus I would avoid anything sackish or Neapolitan, so as much Isaia is fantastic, it probably isn't for you. You need padding. Of these, RLBL will have the strongest shoulder expression, so I'd try that.

Look for something with high armholes and strong shoulders; everything else can be tailored.

I disagree with KW MTM, simply because I think online MTM are huge risks.

This is also the sort of advice I needed - I have tried more natural shoulders like SS Sienna fit and always went towards the more strong shouldered suits, so really good to know re: the Isaia.