the best merino wool pullover

[multiccy-csa]

Following on from my earlier post regarding which Oxford button down (OCBD) shirt members perceive to be the best, which generated much discussion, i would like to pivot to the best wool (preferably merino) pullover.
For years i stuck religiously to John Smedley as they were well-made, fitted well, offered a great selection of styles, fits and shades, were relatively well-priced and made in the North of England, where i grew up.

But now i'm not sure they're quite right, as i often see finer looking garments, potentially Italian-made on other gentlemen that make the JS Belper, Connell and Lundy look a little 'flat'. I tried switching to cashmere, which simply increased the cost, decreased the longevity (although they certainly feel very nice) and tried blends of silk, sea-island cotton, cashmere and merino in various blends... but none seem to work quite as i'd like.

I attach a pair of examples: a 'flat' looking Smedley, vs a 'fine' looking alternative. The Smedley looks and feels a little too sharp (as if the photo has had a 'sharpness' filter added) whereas the other looks smoother and richer, yet i don't think is cashmere.

Either way, do members have a view on the best all-round purveyor of woollen/merino crew necks, rollnecks, v-necks and button-up pullovers, in a good variety of shades, styles and fits ?

Many thanks, as always.

 

[jdgershbein]

I went through a short-lived John Smedley phase. I am a Size Medium in most knitwear and always felt something was lacking regarding the look and drape--at least, on my body.

Fortunately, I discovered Luca Faloni for Merino and cashmere knitwear. I'm a big fan. The quality, fit, and attention to detail are impeccable. Great variety, too. I am particular about the angle of the 'V' of my V-neck sweaters, and the Faloni construction is stellar. I also recommend their quarter-zip cable knit cashmere sweaters. The pulls are stylish, and the zippers are smooth and precise.

I also like the Merino offerings from Gran Sasso. The brand seems to outdo itself every season. Barba Napoli, too, spins an exceptional sweater.

 

[breakaway01]

I just can't imagine restricting myself to a single knitwear maker. Asking about a single 'best' OCBD shirt maker is reasonable since that is a single style and fabric type. But knitwear? So many styles, yarns, and finishing techniques to choose from. Not sure why you want an all-round maker.

I have never been a fan of Smedley because I think their classic sweaters are knit too finely to drape well on most people. They feel very nice to the touch but IMO the fit has to be perfect for them to look good.

I am not sure what you mean by "finer" in your second photo, especially as the resolution is low. I see a sweater that seems to have a brushed finish, as opposed to the Smedley with a smoother finish. Is that what you're referring to?

 

[multiccy-csa]

I just can't imagine restricting myself to a single knitwear maker. Asking about a single 'best' OCBD shirt maker is reasonable since that is a single style and fabric type. But knitwear? So many styles, yarns, and finishing techniques to choose from. Not sure why you want an all-round maker.

I have never been a fan of Smedley because I think their classic sweaters are knit too finely to drape well on most people. They feel very nice to the touch but IMO the fit has to be perfect for them to look good.

I am not sure what you mean by "finer" in your second photo, especially as the resolution is low. I see a sweater that seems to have a brushed finish, as opposed to the Smedley with a smoother finish. Is that what you're referring to?

Thanks for your thoughts. I take your point that it's a far less specific questions introducing much wiggle room for qualified answers.
I guess what i had in mind was in fact a very specific style and look: that of a relatively light gauge, merino v-neck, for layering over a shirt (OCBD or otherwise). Now, when it comes to styles within that, or indeed different yarns and finishing techniques, this is where i need some help with discerning between each. Perhaps there is a helpful resource somewhere? This would make fascinating reading.

With respect to my images, agree the 'fine' shot is low-res, and not too helpful, nor is my 'fine' adjective, but i tend to use that when describing 'fine' examples of wristwatches or pieces of art - it just has a certain aesthetic (much like a 'patina') that escapes descriptive explanation, at least with my level of sartorial understanding, that makes it 'look better'.

Brushed isn't quite what i'd use to describe it, but i don't see why not. I wouldn't call the JS 'smooth' - it looks 'sharp' to me, too sharp. I agree the drape isn't so good either.

Bottom line, on reflection, asking for the 'best' was perhaps foolish.. a better one might have been to ask for members' favourite examples of the (semi-ubiquitous, as much as the OCBD?) v-neck pullover garment i have described.

 

[FlithyButler]

Following on from my earlier post regarding which Oxford button down (OCBD) shirt members perceive to be the best, which generated much discussion, i would like to pivot to the best wool (preferably merino) pullover.
For years i stuck religiously to John Smedley as they were well-made, fitted well, offered a great selection of styles, fits and shades, were relatively well-priced and made in the North of England, where i grew up.

But now i'm not sure they're quite right, as i often see finer looking garments, potentially Italian-made on other gentlemen that make the JS Belper, Connell and Lundy look a little 'flat'. I tried switching to cashmere, which simply increased the cost, decreased the longevity (although they certainly feel very nice) and tried blends of silk, sea-island cotton, cashmere and merino in various blends... but none seem to work quite as i'd like.

I attach a pair of examples: a 'flat' looking Smedley, vs a 'fine' looking alternative. The Smedley looks and feels a little too sharp (as if the photo has had a 'sharpness' filter added) whereas the other looks smoother and richer, yet i don't think is cashmere.

Either way, do members have a view on the best all-round purveyor of woollen/merino crew necks, rollnecks, v-necks and button-up pullovers, in a good variety of shades, styles and fits ?

Many thanks, as always.

Despite the low resolution, and if being forced to guess; the second one actually looks more like cashmere (which would certainly explain the greater fineness/brushed character you are trying to describe).

 

[Johnny80]

It depends on your budget of course....
For merino wool top quality fit and finish but a little more fragile is Zegna 12µ, for the same considerations but a bit more durable there is Colombo 12.8µ. For more durable there is 12µ combined with silk. Also their cashmere+30% silk
For a cheaper option there is Luca Faloni like it was already mention, also Gran Sasso but they build their merino a bit differently and are more rarely. If you want more structured/straight garment you can go with johnstons of elgin merino wool as well. For more fitted/slimmer garment you can try Colhays or Fedeli
For even cheaper i think there are a lot more merino wool options but im not an expert about their durability but for cashmere i wouldnt go that far since, from price/degradation/quality ratio point of view is far higher than merino wools. What i mean by that is that low quality cashmere it will be used far less than low quality merino wool

 

[breakaway01]

I wouldn't give up on cashmere just yet. Cheap(er) cashmere has poor longevity but high quality cashmere is very durable. I have a Malo V-neck pullover that I like very much. Yoox often has good prices on Malo knitwear.

I don't have any but hear that Colhay's is very good.

 

[Johnny80]

I tried switching to cashmere, which simply increased the cost, decreased the longevity

Cashmere is more durable than merino wool on the high tiers levels...on the lower tiers merino wool takes the crown

 

[Johnny80]

Brushed isn't quite what i'd use to describe it, but i don't see why not. I wouldn't call the JS 'smooth' - it looks 'sharp' to me, too sharp. I agree the drape isn't so good either.

If you dont like the "sharp/silky" look (if i understood correctly) , then you should avoid the "ultrafine merino" and maybe even "superfine merino" or you can try superfine merino with cashmere/linen blend