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DWFII

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clee1982

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Speaking of Chinese bespoke, has anyone tried the Chinese bespoke on this thread?

I know there are a ton of handwelt RTW option coming out from China these days, some bespoke as well, though the only guy who probably had experience in all of them is @ThunderMarch who doesn't post here anymore (and he probably just had a ton of bespoke in general, though seems like he has a lot more Italian/Japanese/Chinese than English).
 

dieworkwear

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Speaking of Chinese bespoke, has anyone tried the Chinese bespoke on this thread?

I know there are a ton of handwelt RTW option coming out from China these days, some bespoke as well, though the only guy who probably had experience in all of them is @ThunderMarch who doesn't post here anymore (and he probably just had a ton of bespoke in general, though seems like he has a lot more Italian/Japanese/Chinese than English).
I haven't, but a friend of mine who lives in Beijing has a lot of experience with bespoke taioring and shoes. He said that the bespoke shoes in China aren't very good, but I didn't ask him to elaborate further. The stuff I've seen online looks a bit Instagram-y.
 

clee1982

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I haven't, but a friend of mine who lives in Beijing has a lot of experience with bespoke taioring and shoes. He said that the bespoke shoes in China aren't very good, but I didn't ask him to elaborate further. The stuff I've seen online looks a bit Instagram-y.
label king? is his info recent though? Some of the stuff in these past 2~3 years looks impressive on picture
 

dieworkwear

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label king? is his info recent though? Some of the stuff in these past 2~3 years looks impressive on picture
No, not Label King.

It's all a matter of taste, obviously, but a lot of the Chinese stuff strikes me as a bit gimmicky. They often have really pointy lasts, bright colors, aggressive fiddleback waists. It just feels like the shoe was designed for Instagram, rather than wearing in an outfit. The shoe becomes this standalone object.
 

clee1982

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Some of them, but looking at all the recent ones I think they have come a long way, I mean this are a few from TM's IG

I think both of these are MTO (they can do bespoke, but given COVID right now, not really an "option")

think these are bespoke

might lack some originality, but all seems very sensible to me

these are ACME (Medallion guy has equity in it?), they do RTW to bespoke standard (supposedly), but also does bespoke

looks too "GG Deco/aggressive Japanese last" for me, but reduce the aggressive of the last then I would say your'e good to go
 

dieworkwear

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Some of them, but looking at all the recent ones I think they have come a long way, I mean this are a few from TM's IG

I think both of these are MTO (they can do bespoke, but given COVID right now, not really an "option")

think these are bespoke

might lack some originality, but all seems very sensible to me

these are ACME (Medallion guy has equity in it?), they do RTW to bespoke standard (supposedly), but also does bespoke

looks too "GG Deco/aggressive Japanese last" for me, but reduce the aggressive of the last then I would say your'e good to go
Those shoes don't really do anything for me. But it's bespoke, as you noted, so maybe you can get what you want out of them.
 
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ecwy

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Speaking of Chinese bespoke, has anyone tried the Chinese bespoke on this thread?

I know there are a ton of handwelt RTW option coming out from China these days, some bespoke as well, though the only guy who probably had experience in all of them is @ThunderMarch who doesn't post here anymore (and he probably just had a ton of bespoke in general, though seems like he has a lot more Italian/Japanese/Chinese than English).
I haven't, but a friend of mine who lives in Singapore who has a lot of DIRECT experience with bespoke shoes. He said that some of the makers in China are pretty good but there are some not so good ones amongst the ones he has PHYSICALLY seen.

He also suggests that if you don't know better how to evaluate technical aspects of shoes that you should "trust the brand" and buy cleverlys.
 

clee1982

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well, I don't want to send in my qualifying photos...

For what I like, if I want to pay up (vs. Chinese bespoke) might as well go Japanese (YK), would think I can at least trust that.
 

acapaca

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I was intrigued to read how highly ThunderMarch spoke of Yim. Seems like he puts that maker a notch above the others in that class? I haven't paid a whole lot of attention to that maker/brand yet, but I think I'd like to start to.

Similarly, perhaps, Graziat (or whatever the name is) out of Taipei. I want to learn more.
 

Manuel

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Hahaha, today I leave you some rough shoes, this type of stitching is very old, perhaps 1900 until a long time after the war, approximately ... 1965-1970, I think I uploaded some photographs of others like them and I think you call it "willy stitched"

Long before the footwear industry appeared and when everything was made by hand and sewn with hemp, most of the "cheaper" footwear was made this way and it was for most people, then car wheel rubber was used to the soles and were sewn directly, the shoes, sandals and field boots were made of a thick calf, they had no linings, no eyelets, no glue ........
I like to make this type of footwear, it takes me back in history .... there are still people who use it .....

I have modified the work a bit so that they give another image.

There were entire towns in my city where entire families worked in their homes, when the summer or winter season arrived they loaded their horses, mules and donkeys and moved around the rest of the province to sell them ...... famine season and misery ..... but not everything was bad....

IMG_20200916_210805.jpg
 
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clee1982

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I was intrigued to read how highly ThunderMarch spoke of Yim. Seems like he puts that maker a notch above the others in that class? I haven't paid a whole lot of attention to that maker/brand yet, but I think I'd like to start to.

Similarly, perhaps, Graziat (or whatever the name is) out of Taipei. I want to learn more.
I thought Graziat is RTW (made in China then finish in Taiwan)?

edit: or I'm thinking someone else, maybe Graziat is all made in Taiwan?

edit2: and they look too "french" on IG for me
 

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