Tailoring overcoat (cashmere, blend, etc)

[CrimmyS]

I have a few questions as I've never owned nor really seen one in person due to where I live.

I was thinking about getting a full or 3/4 length overcoat tailored from Eleganza Uomo (Raymond Kiang). I'm asking for details regarding the fabrics and hope to have an answer from them when I come back this Monday.

USD 780 for wool overcoat
USD 980 for cashmere/wool (asking about the blend %) blend or camel hair
USD 1970 for pure cashmere


*Do these seem like decent prices? Seems a little expensive to me.

*Depending on the blend %, is there a significant difference in the material's hand? I can't personally visit the shop due to where I live though i might be able to ask for a swatch. I've never felt cashmere though.

*I really want full length, but worry it might look off on me (I'm 5'7" to 5'8" and late 20s). I hope to get 10+ years out of it (is that realistic?) so I don't mind if I'll "mature into it". I guess the height issue is bigger than the age one for me.

*Would this be one of the better ways to experience pure cashmere (provided it's good quality)? Or would something shorter be smarter (e.g. sportcoat/peacoat)?

*Since I ride a bike/use public transportation, is this a big thing to factor in?

*Most important is whether or not you would feel comfortable asking EU to make this coat at this price. I've had two suits, a sport coat, and some trousers done by them. I'm happy but some people pointed out problems that would push them away from doing business there again. Though i've also seen members praise what they've done. hard for me to judge personally...

Kind not sure what to do. I see this as an investment, but would not do this if the coats aren't expected to last for a while. I don't really need one, but would like one. It kind of sucks not being able to dress up in winter and one cashmere coat sounds like a nice thing to have.

 

[TOstyle]

I have a few questions as I've never owned nor really seen one in person due to where I live.

I was thinking about getting a full or 3/4 length overcoat tailored from Eleganza Uomo (Raymond Kiang). I'm asking for details regarding the fabrics and hope to have an answer from them when I come back this Monday.

USD 780 for wool overcoat
USD 980 for cashmere/wool (asking about the blend %) blend or camel hair
USD 1970 for pure cashmere


*Do these seem like decent prices? Seems a little expensive to me.

Yes - overcoats are expensive (I was looking for one myself earlier so I've just investigated this at a bunch of tailors). The wool/cashmere especially gets real expensive real quick, so if you're getting anything under US$1K you're doing alright.

*Depending on the blend %, is there a significant difference in the material's hand? I can't personally visit the shop due to where I live though i might be able to ask for a swatch. I've never felt cashmere though.

Yeah, the cashmere gets it nice and soft and gives it a great hand. Still enough warm (and cashmere itself is a warm fiber), but it being softer does affect the amount it wares over time.

*I really want full length, but worry it might look off on me (I'm 5'7" to 5'8" and late 20s). I hope to get 10+ years out of it (is that realistic?) so I don't mind if I'll "mature into it". I guess the height issue is bigger than the age one for me.

To the prior point, 100% wool will give you more durability. 5+ years should be reasonable for a good quality fabric/ well constructed, but cashmere coats will wear out sooner. You're only wearing this a few months a year, so you might have to get the buttons fixed up each season and replace the liner after a few, but it can last.

*Would this be one of the better ways to experience pure cashmere (provided it's good quality)? Or would something shorter be smarter (e.g. sportcoat/peacoat)?

*Since I ride a bike/use public transportation, is this a big thing to factor in?

If there is any worry I would have in your post, it is this. With a full-length coat it can very difficult to bike. It's big, it's bulky and it does get in the way a little when riding so it's not super comfortable. I know from experience as I generally walk/ bike to work, in Canadian/ North-East American winters.

*Most important is whether or not you would feel comfortable asking EU to make this coat at this price. I've had two suits, a sport coat, and some trousers done by them. I'm happy but some people pointed out problems that would push them away from doing business there again. Though i've also seen members praise what they've done. hard for me to judge personally...

Up to you, but I'm always uncomfortable not being able to do this in person with a tailor. I've bought a bunch of different ways, places, methods etc. and really settled on buying with a good local tailor. It does usually mean a higher price, but it VASTLY improves the chance you are actually going to get something you like, that fits well and doesn't have any fit issues. So you're paying for it either way, through uncertainty or more alterations out of pocket, but I have enjoyed the experience of settling on a tailor and or two and building out a wardrobe with them.

Kind not sure what to do. I see this as an investment, but would not do this if the coats aren't expected to last for a while. I don't really need one, but would like one. It kind of sucks not being able to dress up in winter and one cashmere coat sounds like a nice thing to have.

Hope that helps. Good luck!

 

[zty_07]

I asked EU for a bespoke coat last year. The Loro Piana cashmere would cost around 20000RMB, which is around 2500 to 3000USD. I did not go for that though.

 

[CrimmyS]

Hope that helps. Good luck!

I forgot to ask. What does the lining of an overcoat mean exactly? Is it a removable insert used to keep you warm?

When you say the coat is a little uncomfortable on a bike, is it really just a little or not worth wearing while riding a bike? I was more worried about keeping it clean and such while on a bike than comfort, as long as it's bearable.

Only 5 years? That still seems kind of short. I'm new to suits, sportcoats, etc. What exactly wears it down to the point where you need to replace it? Also, what's will happen to the buttons?

Were the prices you saw in retail stores or from tailors. Online I've been seeing prices ranging from 300-500 with blends like on JosBank but I know little of their quality.

It's good to know the blend feels nice and soft still. Is the hand of a blend vs pure a big difference? Will women still fondle me if I'm wearing a blend? Heh.

I asked EU for a bespoke coat last year. The Loro Piana cashmere would cost around 20000RMB, which is around 2500 to 3000USD. I did not go for that though.

Did you have one made or did you just inquire? If you had one made, could you let me know what you think about the quality of the tailoring, the fabric you used (how it's holding up) and if you feel it was worth it. Like I said, I don't really have a problem with what they've made, but some of the people here weren't impressed.

 

[zty_07]

I just asked about the price. Loro Piana cashmere fabric feels great. I just think the price is a little high. EU quality is good. Although I only have a few jackets from them, no overcoat.

 

[TOstyle]

I forgot to ask. What does the lining of an overcoat mean exactly? Is it a removable insert used to keep you warm?

When you say the coat is a little uncomfortable on a bike, is it really just a little or not worth wearing while riding a bike? I was more worried about keeping it clean and such while on a bike than comfort, as long as it's bearable.

Only 5 years? That still seems kind of short. I'm new to suits, sportcoats, etc. What exactly wears it down to the point where you need to replace it? Also, what's will happen to the buttons?

Were the prices you saw in retail stores or from tailors. Online I've been seeing prices ranging from 300-500 with blends like on JosBank but I know little of their quality.

It's good to know the blend feels nice and soft still. Is the hand of a blend vs pure a big difference? Will women still fondle me if I'm wearing a blend? Heh.


Did you have one made or did you just inquire? If you had one made, could you let me know what you think about the quality of the tailoring, the fabric you used (how it's holding up) and if you feel it was worth it. Like I said, I don't really have a problem with what they've made, but some of the people here weren't impressed.

For the lining, it is usually the same as a suit jacket, and serves the same purpose - hides the stitching and makes it easier to get the garment on-and-off. Some jackets can come with extra insulation in the lining, but I think it is unusual for custom jobs. I asked around about a month ago when I was looking for one, and didn't find anyone who would add more insulation. It also usually isn't removable (certainly possible to be zipped or buttoned in, but not common).

On riding, if it's full-length it's just a pain **********, since it is long and puddles around your feet when peddling. It's not a huge deal, but it's a bit more intrusive so not as comfortable as using a shorter jacket. Small point, so I don't think it would bother you.

I said 5+ because I didn't want you to get the sense that this would last forever or set your expectations too high. 5-10 years is pretty common for a well-made coat, but it can depend on the fabric you use so hard to generalize.

With regular use the threads holding the buttons will generally come loose (as you are pulling on them). They just need to be re-sewn so no big deal. Just make sure to have some extra buttons in case you loose them (and if you keep it 5+ years you definitely will at some point).

I'm talking prices for custom coats. Retail prices are lower, but then so is the quality. And if you're looking to make an investment and keep this for 10 years, it pays to get something good quality. An off-the-rack overcoat will be cheaper, but in my experience haven't lasted more than 5 years (and getting a little ratty towards the end of that).

You'll definitely get fondled with cashmere - that's why it's important to make sure that the length of the coat is juuust right.

The one I ordered should be coming in early next year. I'll try and remember to post some pics when it comes in.