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Suit fit critique.


Well-Known Member
Apr 11, 2020
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Ok. I have been lurking here for weeks as this site comes up in my google searches. My name is Doug. I am new here and I rarely wear suits. But, life has changed and I find myself needing/wanting to wear them more. I thrifted a couple of suits I thought fit well and used those to for measurement guidelines. I used those measurements to score these suits on ebay.

First, a navy oxxford with surgeons cuffs. S180 wool. Pick stithing.

Second is a charcoal Tom James with holland and sherry wool. S150. Surgeons cuffs.

Third is a samuelsohn gable. S120.

Fourth is an old hickey freeman international club. Glen check. I dont know the fabric type. There are no tags inside saying what it is. It feels courser and thicker than all my other suits. It feels very slightly fuzzy but kind of coarse. This was an early thrift that fit well enough and didnt even need the pants hemmed.

All of them have roll below the collar. What other areas should I Iook at and what should I ask a tailor? What are signs that I'm dealing with a good tailor? I've taken all of these to a local tailor and had the pants hemmed on three of them. He also took in the waist of the samuelsohn and the hickey freeman and let out the waist of the tom james. That is what I paid for anyway. My wife and I can tell no change in the jackets he was to work on. The tailor never brought up the collar roll. My wife and I noticed it after they came back from getting tailored. I think I need to look for another tailor. Thank you for any input on the fit of these suits and signs to look for when searching out another tailor.


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Distinguished Member
Mar 15, 2006
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Nearly everything fits badly - including areas too tight - on the first suit. It is a lost cause, at least for now.

The sleeves are too long on all the suit jackets. The jackets probably are too long, with the second suit the closest to the correct length.

The second and third suits do not look terrible and can be made better . Many tailors will not nitpick clothing for adjustments to make unless customers urge that. Check the link below - the website (username plus ".com") has an article about judging a tailor. There was also a recent forum thread about the subject, which naturally wasn't as good :)
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Jan Capek

Senior Member
Feb 17, 2018
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It's very hard to assess a suit fit from still images. One needs to see the symphony of cloth as it moves. Still, I don't see anything significantly wrong with the suits. Yes, there is some loose fabric on the back of one of the light ones, but nothing that can't be made go away with that certain something that comes from within. The taper on the first (or is it the second? The first is really good, actually...) is too agressive, which also translates in tighter lower back, with horizontal creasing. But I have seen these "special effects" even in the U.S. Congress. The roll below the collar is not easily seen in the images unless pointed out. I would consider that to be the biggest problem. People say this is easily fixable, but I have never encountered a tailor that would demonstrate that to me. The best attempts I've seen ended up with a messed collar (pulling it away from the back of the neck).
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Mar 16, 2020
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From a layman’s perspective who doesn’t know much about proper fitting, I think most of them are good. The one is a little tight in the back

So, I’d say it depends what you’re wearing them for. If you’re doing it for some high rank job where you have to look perfect and impress people, then I’d say perhaps go for some better fits. Pretty much anything else I can’t imagine people are going to be that critical, they look good.

Just my two cents,


Senior Member
Dec 8, 2017
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I think the jacket of the shadow stripe suit is too tight in the chest and too long in the sleeves. I think the other suits look okay.

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