starting my wardrobe, please critique

[lovestorm]

Hi guys, I'm currently in Chiang Mai, thailand and planning on heading to a tailor to get a suit made for myself. I feel it's time I start dressing a little older. I'm 24, work in a bar and manage a folk rock band, so looking professional isn't required, but I feel like injecting some style. Here's what I look like: 5'10" 160-170 lbs, depending on if I've been hitting the gym or slacking off, brown eyes, fair skin, a goatee that never gets truly thick, and dark brown hair, which I usually keep shaved down to only a milimetre or so. my haircut is generally like this: http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._1870789_n.jpg but with a goatee like this: http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._4220588_n.jpg And I think that's the way it's going to stay. I like short because I hate styling my hairdo, and though I'm not the biggest fan of my goatee, everyone says it suits me and adds some much needed years to my babyface. Anyway, here's what I'm planning on grabbing to start my wardrobe and the tailor I'm going through (check out the site for pictures): http://www.maxxfashion.net/ I'm thinking: Jacket Style 3, Business suit, single breasted with two buttons. Two side pockets with flaps. One top pocket three sleeve buttons and inside three pockets. double vented, no pattern charcoal grey wool, and peaked lapels to give me a little extra height Trouser 3, charcoal grey, one pleat since I am rarely standing in one place. (should I get it with pinstripes or stay with no pattern? I'm still confused as to patterns and whether the trousers should be the same as the jacket) ...Vest 3 (maybe? I'm in the dark with vests. Maybe get it in blue or orange/yellow with a pattern? what pattern would you suggest?) As for dress shirts... no idea either for colour or style, but cotton seems to be the standard to stick with. Accessories: cufflinks, pocket squares, and ties... my plan is to go with charcoal grey and let my accessories pop and really make the look. But I've even less idea what to look for when it comes to these. Should pocket squares NEVER match ties in terms of colour and pattern? I read that since I'm high contrast (dark hair, light skin) I should go for contrast in my colours... complementary colours and triad colours, but no analogous colours. I'm thinking I like the combos of orange-yellow + blue violet, along with orange-yellow + violet-red + blue-green as shown here: http://www.kitchengalleries.com/news...olor-wheel.jpg All my style advice so far is coming from the art of manliness blog and other sites referenced there. Please help guys! I'm leaving soon and really want to suit up quick!

 

[pvrhye]

I have a lot of negative visual associations with goatees... I briefly had one to the sound of resounding cheers when it went away. I have a beard now, but that's because I'm already in a comfy relationship. Notice any culture where men have facial hair, women usually have next to 0 political power. I'm assuming that's no a coincidence.

If you're just starting your wardrobe, don't buy odd vests. Get a 3 piece and jack the vest time to time to wear with other things.

I don't think peak lapels necessarily make you look taller, but ones with a high gorge potentially will. Mind you, at 5'10" you don't have to pay a lot of attention to that. You're a pretty normal height.

You made no mention of shoes, but they really do make the man. Lurk here a bit til you find some you like. Unfortunately, they're never very cheap.

I don't know what kinda tailor you're looking at, but warned... buy cheap, buy twice.

Read the link in my sig and lurk for at least a couple weeks before you drop all this $.

 

[lovestorm]

My time is limited, and I'm doing this but would appreciate opinions. What do you think of the designs I've chosen? Also some ideas for good shirt patterns would be appreciated.

 

[koolhistorian]

Try one suit - with thai tailors is quite a gamble! Charcoal is ok, drop the vest, better have 2 pants made - same color and fabric with the jacket. Buy 2-3 crisp white shirts and 2-3 blue (leave aside the flusser theory), 2-3 ties -burgundy, solid navy, maybe a navy with white polka dots. 2 pairs of captoe oxfords - one black, one brown, 2-3 white linen PS and you have the basics covered. Its boring, but it starts like that.

 

[lovestorm]

thanks!

The tailor comes well recommended from others I've spoke with personally and through online review sites. These seem to be legit posts as well, the users mostly have 500+ posts so it probably wasn't a username made by a disingenuous tailor.

They're saying they have 3 choices for fabric in my price range:
80% Cashmere, 20% Wool
70% Cashmere, 30% Wool
Cotton-Polyester

So I've heard Cotton Polyester should never be used in a suit, so that leaves 2 choices. What's the difference? I also asked if they had 100% wool but they just insisted I'd like Cashmere better, so I'm guessing they don't do just wool.

 

[Nicola]

The fact they even suggested a poly blend should worry you.

Cashmere is softer and tends to be warmer.

Good cashmere is more expensive then similar quality of wool. Which makes the suggestion of a poly blend even more worrisome.

 

[Kiwi Man]

I know that Chiang Mai can be a little colder than Bangkok, but I personally would not wear wool in Thailand anywhere unless it is in the winter. I don't know how long you have been in Thailand. I was born and raised here until I was 17 year old then I went away for abord for the last ten years.

The last time I was told since I have come back, the weather has not changed that much! Please do not let the "surprisingly" cool weather that we had several weeks ago fool you. It didn't happen that often.

My main concern is that if you wear suits which warm you up, your dress shirt will not last that long because of the ring around the collar problem.

It is very true when people said that you definitely SHOULD get one suit first. If you like what you see after your first suit was made, then you can order some more. Mininizing the risk in Thailand SHOULD ALWAYS BE your first priority.

 

[lovestorm]

So... 80% cashmere or 70% cashmere? Like I said, they gave me what was in my price range.