Regarding white suits

[Tumbleweed]

I've always had a thing for white suits, since they're a fun thing to drag out in the appropriate (or perhaps inappropriate) situation. A technical point has been bothering me.

Earlier this year I had a white suit made in Thailand and in direct light the shadow of fabric excess in the seam allowance and shoulder pads can be seen. This limits its use to evenings. It's difficult to tell if this is the result of lesser tailoring standards or something unavoidable with light coloured fabric. The suit itself was made from a 9.5oz gabardine, so it's got a decent body to it.

I had a look at some suits at Harrold's and Ralph Lauren for comparison and it seems even Pal Zileri and RLPL white suits at least show a bit of shadow on the seams. However, both these suits were lightweight linen and of a deconstructed style. Would it be possible that if made with a sufficient weight of fabric and lined that it would be consistently opaque? Or is a bit of shadow acceptacle, if unavoidable?

I also like the idea of flannel or hopsack weave (since texture is always fun with solid colours) in a darker ivory that could see a bit of use in colder months. The attached RL suit has a particularly good colour.

 

[Tomasso]

Originally Posted by Tumbleweed

It's difficult to tell if this is the result of lesser tailoring standards or something unavoidable with light coloured fabric.

It's the fabric. You could circumvent the issue by having the trousers fully lined, but............

 

[Tumbleweed]

It was actually more of the coat, particularly along the shoulders and the down the back seam.

 

[Tomasso]

Then I reiterate; it's the fabric.

 

[Tumbleweed]

So would a heavier weight or different weave alleviate the problem, or is it unavoidable with light colours?

 

[Tomasso]

Originally Posted by Tumbleweed

So would a heavier weight or different weave alleviate the problem, or is it unavoidable with light colours?
Well, it's not a color issue per se as it certainly wouldn't be an issue with Winter white flannel.

I have black and chocolate Dupioni silk suits that show their seams, to some extent, though nothing like the lighter colored stuff. To some degree a little transparency is part and parcel to the white look.