Recent commissions (Zegna Couture)

[naturlaut]

Dear members, The board is growing. Â It's great to see so many new members. Finally signed up for a hosting service --- Image Shack doesn't allow me to access their site due to my current location (Hong Kong) so I can't view or uploading anything on Image Shack. Â Here are some of my recent commissions, do give me suggestions and criticism.

Zegna Couture (formerly Napoli Couture) Material : 60% linen, 40% silk NC uses a separate collection of fabrics from the regular Zegna (for old time's sake, I will continue to call it Napoli Couture). Â They are usually finer, offers a better hand, and has a natural shine that the others do not have. Â I picked this mainly because of its weight; it is very light. Â Zegna's fabrics are graded and priced in a alphabetical scheme: 'A' for cheapest, 'H' for more expensive, and so on. Â I think this fabric was around 'F', and it came out to be around US$2200. Fit: very light. Â The shoulder of the jacket wraps around my shoulders pretty comfortably, without the burden of heavy padding or stiffness. Â The armhole is relatively high, especially at the front of the armhole. Â The lapel roll is good, not perfect, but good nevertheless. Â Since it's a 3-button-rolled-on-2, the top button will not be used. Â The second button is placed at 2" below my rib cage. Â Large patch pockets at the level of the last button, they are lined with a think piece of cotton in matching colour (this lining resembles those used in Oxxford pants). Â I ordered it quarter lined --- the lining will stop at the side of your body (a half-lined jacket will have the lining going a bit further back, usually stops at where the side-vent flap begins). Â The seams inside the jacket are exposed, though they are obviously not trying to cover them (some tailors fold the fabric onto itself to provide added protection for the seams). Â Handstitching is evident in the entire jacket. Since it is only a MTM, there are many features that I cannot customized. Â For example, the back neck is not a tiny bit too low for my body; maybe 1/8" higher would be better. Â Now if I wear a shirt that has higher neck (like 2" collar band) this would not look very nice. Â Also, since it's a quarter-lined jacket, the waist could be taken in just a bit to give a more pronounced dividing line between the upper chest and jacket skirt. Â It is a very comfortably tailored jacket. Â The fabric is definitely the best part of it. Rating: *** (out of 5) Value: *** (out of 5)

 

[naturlaut]

For those who have missed this post, do give some thoughts on this coat. Thank you.

Naturlaut

 

[BjornH]

It's a fine coat but I suspect much is lost in the photography as it's very hard to do the fabric justice without professional lighting. What surprises me is the cost. $2200 is way below what I would expect to pay for MTM Zegna NC, not that I've had the courage to ask around.

When you get tired of it I'll be watching ebay like a hawk - we use the same size execpt my arms are 1/2 inch longer or so.

B

edit: And thank you once again for these reports. They are much appreciated as looking at clothes is much more satisfying than reading about them.

 

[1Dgaf]

Is the notch where the collar meets the lapel (the gorge?) larger than on most 'highstreet' RTW suits at the moment? The placement of it seems slightly lower than I see being worn on the street, which is something I like.

 

[truthhurts]

It's always hard to say anything about suits without seeing them worn by their owner.

 

[Giona Granata]

Very nice, I like it. Can you show it on you?