Raw Denim high quality : head is spinning from all the choices. What should I look for.

[ymc226]

I want to get a pair of very high quality dark indego raw denim in the 14+oz category, either Sanforized or non-Sanforized in a slim/tapered style. I've read the forum here for the last 3 days going through many of the threads on the individual makers: Roy, IH, etc. Either they go on to become "blogs" to advertise the latest additions in the store or are not that helpful at all.

I've also gone back and read about 80 pages of the Gustin thread. Posters write about quality in a number of posts but not many specifics are brought up. More often than not, praise is given to the quality of said maker. What specific traits are important and distinguishing. Is there an easy way to tell the quality of the build. It seems all hems are chain stitched. All of the quality makers use either Cone (American) or various Japanese fabrics. They all have personalized hardware. Rivets can be hidden; is this a good thing?

I am just getting into jeans, have about 4 pairs Gustins which coming from Levis growing up, is better. However, I'm looking for a step up in quality and workmanship. Looking a Roy's, his detail just from the pictures of the inside is amazing but he doesn't have a slim tapered model presently. Did he ever? Are there other marks I should consider? My preferences would be American made either American or Japanese fabric. Some websites have distressed models as well but I'd like to avoid those.

Given the price of IH and other Japanese makers, what makes them "better" in terms of construction/fit/fabric? I tend to be Japan centric at times and would like to get a pair of Japanese jeans as well but what are the distinguishing differences among the brands.

I know as one goes up the scale of anything, the perceived return quickly shrinks. I shoot with digital Leicas which are not better than SLRs from Canikon. Also have a GT3 which is not faster than any other sports car driven properly but I appreciate the timeless quality of design.

 

[LA Guy]

You should buy a pair of jeans because they fit well, and the fabric is interesting. Are they more durable? Well, than what? Sure, they are usually more durable than a pair of crap jeans from Walmart, which is made as cheaply as possible. On the higher end, there are all sorts of bells and whistles, but for me, it ends up being mostly about the fabric. While I would never advise anyone to look at a pair of jeans as an investment, I will recommend Momotaro jeans. The combination of (relatively) modern fits and the very tightly woven denim, which generally results in a more comfortable jean at the same weight, ime. And to a point, weight and durability are related.

If you are specifically looking for something that is made the the USA, of Japanese fabric, I like 3Sixteen, and something like this might fit your needs: http://www.3sixteen.com/collections/denim/products/st-130x-slim-tapered-heavyweight-indigo