Ralph Lauren Tailored Clothing/Suits Guide (2015 Update)

[To the Nines]

This is the definitive update of Ralph Lauren tailored clothing (as of May 2015). Being a dedicated RL tailored clothing fan, I felt the information available in the past, while helpful, was not updated nor comprehensive enough for someone seriously looking into purchasing a Ralph Lauren suit.

That said, the below should provide a great overall background for someone who is making that investment whether it is the first or the twentieth.


RALPH LAUREN PURPLE LABEL
*This is the very best that Ralph Lauren Tailored Clothing can offer with the current suits made by St. Andrews in Italy
(*Formerly made in England by Chester Barrie)
*Aesthetic: very English--structured, conservative --despite being made in Italy. fabric patterns often subtle or otherwise traditional (ex: Prince of Wales)
*Fabrics: Wool, Cotton, Linen, Cashmere, Vicuna (Made to Measure only) ranging from Super 150s+ with all season and seasonal weights
*Models: Drake, Savile Row, Hollywood (suit)
*FIt: Drake fits similar to RL BL Anthony suit (slim, higher arm hole) but with a Drop 6. Savile Row fits generously as traditional suits go
*Full canvas construction with extensive handwork used to create suit. 60+ hours of work to complete
*Bemberg lining (jacket and pants)
*typical sartorial aesthetics including pick stitching, functional lapel keyhole, basted sleeves (w/buttons in pouch)
*Natural casein or horn buttons.
*Jackets w/side vents
*Drop 6 (waist is six inches less than jacket size. ex: 40R suit comes with 34 pant)
*Pants have side tabs (as opposed to belt loops. belt loops can be added by an experienced tailor)
*Black and Navy Peak and Shawl Tuxedo options available
*Retail Price: $5K+ *Sale Price: $2.5K+ (if available)

*How is RL PL different than RL BL?
>more handwork involved as compared to more machine work with RL BL suits
>better quality canvas (both are full canvassed, but the quality differs)
>higher quality wool used (Super 150s+ v Super 120s-130s)
>basted sleeves
>Drop 6 in PL vs Drop 7 in BL
>fabric patterns, while subtle, are often more similar to Polo than BL (traditional vs modern)
>generally more traditional lapels


RALPH LAUREN BLACK LABEL
*Modern tailored clothing offerings made in Italy by Caruso
*Aesthetic: Often monochromatic, subtle designs (ex: shadow/ghost plaids, fine dot stripes, solids)
*Fabrics Used: wool, wool blend (wool, elastane), cotton, linen, cashmere in all season and seasonal weights. Super 120s-130s OTR.
*Models: Anthony, Austin, Nigel, Daniel
*Fit: Anthony model has a timeless yet modern fit with a tapered torso, higher armholes and drop 7 pant. The other three models have a combination of a shorter ("modern) jacket, more tapered legs, lower rise and slimmer ("modern") labels
*Drop 7
*Full canvas construction (past BL tailored clothing offerings had half canvas construction)
>mix of handwork and machine work
*typical sartorial aesthetics and features including pick stitching, functional lapel keyhole, and ticket pockets on select models
*Natural casein buttons. "Silver" buttons on basic sport coats.
*Bemberg jacket and pant linings. Anthony model has full jacket linings while other models may have half or minimal jacket lining
*Drop 7
*Pants have side tabs (as opposed to belt loops. belt loops can be added by an experienced tailor)
*Tuxedo available in Anthony model w/peak, shawl and notch lapel options
>Available in black. Peak and shawl models available in navy
>current model has no vents, while past models had side vents
>casein buttons (non-covered buttons)
>white dinner jacket available
>year round fabric option is wool with limited linen option
*Retail Price: $1.7K-$2.5K *Sale Price: around $1K

POLO RALPH LAUREN (aka Blue Label)
*Classic tailored clothing with modern fits made in Eastern Europe by Corneliani; made in USA Models by Hickey Freeman
(*past Made in Italy offerings made by Corneliani)
*Aesthetic: traditional English countryside and American prep looks that include herringbone, glen plaids, chalk stripes, along with standard solids and pinstripes
*Fabrics Used: wool, cotton, linen, cashmere in all season and seasonal weights. Super 110s OTR.
*Models: Harvard, Princeton, Polo I, Polo II
*Fit: current models are similar to BL Anthony fit with tapered torso, higher arm holes, Drop 7 ensemble. Made in Italy offerings fit generously through torso, with traditional armholes and have fuller cut pants (along with Drop 6 waist)
*natural horn buttons
*Jackets have (American) center vent
*Drop 7 (made in Eastern Europe, USA), Drop 6 (made in Italy)
*Pants have side tabs (as opposed to belt loops. belt loops can be added by an experienced tailor). "Made in Italy" models had belt loops.
*Partial Canvas Construction/Partially Fused (current). Half Canvas Construction on "Made in Italy" offerings
*Currently only one tuxedo option: Black, peak lapel with vent
*Retail Price: $900 - $1.5K *Sale Price: $600-$700

RRL (NOT to be confused with Rugby Ralph Lauren which is now defunct. RRL stands for Ralph Ricky Lauren; also named after Ralph's RRL Ranch)
*American heritage tailored clothing made in Italy by Caruso
*Aesthic: American heritage tailored clothing with looks and fits from the first half of the American 20th century; era authentic (ex: possible higher pant rises, button fly, etc)
*Fabrics Used: wool, cotton, linen, cashmere
*Models: n/a
*Fit: individual styles similar to clothing of the era; overall fits similar to RL BL with higher armholes and tailored through torso. pants may have higher rise
*Drop: jacket and pants often sold as separates
*Half Canvas Construction
*natural horn buttons
*no regular tuxedo option
*Retail Price: $1.7K (jacket and pant purchased together) *Sale Price: $1.1K
*note that RRL tailored clothing has very limited in store availability and select availability online

*So What About Rugby Ralph Lauren?
>defunct line with East Coast prep aesthetic and overall slimmer fits
>fabrics tend to be similar to Polo Ralph Lauren prep offerings with jacket and pants (sold separately) fitting similar and at times slimmer than RL BL
>tailored clothing options include those made in Italy;however largely fused construction
>fun fact: Rugby is the name of the Lauren family dog


LAUREN by RALPH LAUREN (aka "Green Label", "Silver Label") and RALPH by RALPH LAUREN
*licensed tailored clothing garments that serve as a mainstream introduction to iconic American looks
*Aesthetic: similar to Polo Ralph Lauren with preppy, countryside and conservative offerings
*Fabrics Used: (presumably non virgin/recycled) wool, wool blends, cotton
*Fits: range from modern to generous
*Fused jacket construction
*Plastic buttons
*Polyester/Synthetic jacket and pant linings
*Retail Price: around $600, but less with discounts! *Sale Price: below $500 with in store discounts/pre clearance
*Note that Lauren by Ralph Lauren is often found in department stores and factory outlets. That said it is advisable to strategically purchase on sale/promotion.

 

[dreamspace]

I tried on a couple of new blue label suits a couple of months ago, and I have to say, the were more sleek than any Corneliani made blue label I've tried. But they were very slim cut, especially the trousers.

Kinda like a hybrid between traditional black label and polo.

 

[To the Nines]

The Corneliani "Made in Italy" suits are of better construction, arguably better made than some of the RL BL Caruso suits.

However as style 101 would suggest, fit is more important than dollars spent/cost of item. New Polo/Blue Label suits took a page from BL and can offer a "better" (more modern and slim) fit at a lower price point.

 

[GoodLuckChuck80]

Hello Gentleman,
I greatly appreciate your combined efforts educating me in all things Ralph Lauren. I've learned so much, this is by far the most extensive, detailed & informative information on the web (trust me I've looked). Anyways, if any of the knowledgeable RL guys could help me identify this suit, I've searched for a while with no luck. I will post pictures below any & all information will be greatly appreciated fellas. Thank you for taking the time to read & reply.

 

[Phileas Fogg]

Hello Gentleman,
I greatly appreciate your combined efforts educating me in all things Ralph Lauren. I've learned so much, this is by far the most extensive, detailed & informative information on the web (trust me I've looked). Anyways, if any of the knowledgeable RL guys could help me identify this suit, I've searched for a while with no luck. I will post pictures below any & all information will be greatly appreciated fellas. Thank you for taking the time to read & reply.

based on the styling, I’d say it’s an older model. I believe Corneliani used to make RL suits a while back, at least their Made in Italy suits.

 

[GoodLuckChuck80]

based on the styling, I’d say it’s an older model. I believe Corneliani used to make RL suits a while back, at least their Made in Italy suits.

That's what I assumed, I tried narrowing it down by the model #'s description but couldn't. Not sure if it had any alterations or not. 3 button front, back vent and 4 inside pockets. Pants have a blue "dry clean only" sewn tag exactly like the polo & made in Italy ones. 6 brown buttons inside the waistband (maybe for a vest). Suit is in superb condition, just killing me as it's like no other RL suits I've owned or came across

 

[Phileas Fogg]

the buttons are for braces.

 

[GoodLuckChuck80]

Sweet. I appreciate the help. Even when I check any of the numbers associated with the jacket or trouser tags I come up with zilch.

 

[Phileas Fogg]

Like I said, it’s an older model. You’ll have a hard time finding anything official.

 

[GoodLuckChuck80]

Sorry if I seem bothersome. Older as in 1995-current or pre 1995 if you had to estimate?

 

[Phileas Fogg]

No clue. Sorry.