Questioning Fit of this Suit (and shirts) - Part 2

[Bob01]

Well I took back that suit and those shirts to get fixed...

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=66707

Server may be slow...pictures may take a bit to load....

The shoulders of the suit were shaved by about 1.5 cm on each side, and was told the
sleeves were made more trim (don't think they were though) - also the tailor was
really hesitant on trimming the sleeves to wrist bone length...was tired of arguing
day, and will probably take it to another tailor to get it the way I want...Pants were also
shortened...

Suit
(Group 1)
Before....

After/Now....

Shirt & Pants
(Group 2)
I think the proper term is Darts? - about an inch of fabric from each side was stitched in for the shirts that were previously ordered, sleeves were shortened and slimmed down....

Before...

After/Now...

Turnback cuffs (by the tailor who made the shirt above)....seem to stick out alot -
probably just need to really crease/iron them more?
(Group 3)

Linen (by the tailor who made the shirt above)...with more point-ish collars (was
thinking I'll get the remainder of my shirts - both casual & business, with this type
collar?- any opinions?), flat hemmed (I think I got the length right?), without darts
since it was made after I told them to trim down the sides...
(Group 4)

Was thinking of getting all my flat hemmed shirts with 1-1.5 inch vents on the sides?
Any thoughts on this?



Another Tailor...Turnback cuffs, but made with a higher quality cotton (or so I was told)
Not sure the fit is as good as the ones above though (from the other tailor)?...
(Group 5)

Another Suit....
This suit was made by a tailor closer to home (about 4km away), unfortunately he uses
an 80/20 wool/polyester mix (though on the plus side hes honest about it, unlike most
at the Shanghai Fabric Market - claims his reason for this choice is for wrinkle
resistance). This guy was easier to work with than the tailor who made the suit above,
but had to sign my name next to the revisions (shave the shoulders 2cm each side,
shortening & slimming the sleeves, etc) and pay in advance the remaining balance of
the suit, since he was confident that it was going to look silly ;-)

If there aren't any major problems with the fit of this suit, I'll have him fix the other
tailor's suit sleeves and have him make my sport coats & pants (linen, corduroy, cotton)

Suit #2 (Group 6)

Not really a fan of the shirt though, the sleeves seem too roomy/baggy? Sides look like
they can be taken in by 1/2" or so? Pants seem to look ok though?
(Group 7)

So, basically looking for additional comments about the fit of the items above... Anything obviously wrong glaring at you that I missed? ;-)

And yes...I know...the Shoes are HORRIBLE....As soon as I get back to the states, I will
be making a beeline to the nearest Allen Edmonds store for a fitting...Think I'll get the
most common "starter" shoe (atleast from what I read on this forum ;-))...the Park
Avenue in black, later down the road maybe also get the brown or merlot one as well

The shirts in Groupings 2, 3 & 4 - I think fit the best? If not major errors with the
current fit, I may end up doing a bulk order for some casual and business shirts
through them this week

When commenting about the items above, if you can refer to their Groupings (Groups 1-7) to reduce any communication issues it would be greatly appreciated!

 

[kngrimm]

I'll start with the good... I like the linen shirt.

Not so good... the added darts [I think] don't look nice and I don't see a big difference... nothing really changed.

I cannot really say much more because most, if not all, of the pictures look like RTW fit... it doesn't feel custom.

 

[gnatty8]

Those shoes are not so good

 

[penguin vic]

The 'after' suit is a noticeable improvement on the 'before'. Both suits have very low armholes - it seems moving your arms slightly throws everything off - if you use these tailors again I suggest this would be one of the key things to fix up.

 

[Bob01]

Originally Posted by gnatty8

Those shoes are not so good

Yes...as in the original post.....
"And yes...I know...the Shoes are HORRIBLE....As soon as I get back to the states, I will
be making a beeline to the nearest Allen Edmonds store for a fitting...Think I'll get the
most common "starter" shoe (atleast from what I read on this forum ;-))...the Park
Avenue in black, later down the road maybe also get the brown or merlot one as well "
I would burn them, but then I'd have to take the pictures in my sneakers....


About the Linen Shirt comment:
Thanks! - All my future shirts should look/fit like this one (if I continue to order through that particular tailor). The ones with the darts, were made after a suggestion that the shirts were too wide...this one was made after I told them to slim it down...Guess I'll be ordering a few more from this tailor...


For group #6, Any comments about the fit on that one? If its similar to Suit #1 (bring up the arm holes) - then I might go through this guy to make some sport coats....


On a side note...I'm getting a "bespoke" (we'll see how well that definition fits the tailor claiming it in a few weeks) suit made - Chesa 150s "Cool Wool", Half lining, canvassed with horse hair... - will hopefully not look RTW....we'll see I guess though....


Thank you all again!

 

[Bob01]

Any comments about the pants in group #2 - I'll be around that tailor's area tommorrow - was thinking of ordering 4 or so more pairs of pants from them - May only be in China for another 4 weeks, so gotta stock up now ;-). Was thinking maybe the crouch was a little bit low, but besides that, it was ok?

Or is group #7 better? (albeit made with lesser quality cloth)...

Thanks again!

 

[IUtoSLU]

I have a suggestipn for the shirts. They are (at least IMO) too baggy around the waist and in the arms. In the past, my tailor tapered my OTR dress shirts. When they were still baggy, I then requested darts. The combination of these two tailoring services resulted in an OTR shirt that actually fit better than the two you have there. The total cost was only about $75. Granted, the fabric of the shirts was not as high quality as the ones you have and there was no feature of turnback cuffs (which is only a matter of taste). But the end result was a well-fitting shirt for cheap.

 

[Bob01]

Originally Posted by IUtoSLU

I have a suggestipn for the shirts. They are (at least IMO) too baggy around the waist and in the arms. In the past, my tailor tapered my OTR dress shirts. When they were still baggy, I then requested darts. The combination of these two tailoring services resulted in an OTR shirt that actually fit better than the two you have there. The total cost was only about $75. Granted, the fabric of the shirts was not as high quality as the ones you have and there was no feature of turnback cuffs (which is only a matter of taste). But the end result was a well-fitting shirt for cheap.

When referring to the two, do you mean the blue ones/turnbacks? (Debating if I like the turnbacks...;-)) One was altered with darts, that didn't seem to work that well and the other was a first attempt (and I probably wont go back to that tailor to explain what I want)...the Linen Shirt is the latest attempt at the tailor who put darts on the previous shirts they made - unfortunately I do not have pics of it with my arms out, but for the sides, would you say I should try to bring more in?

Thanks!