Question re: First Bespoke (Suit) Experience/Strategy

[whnay.]

Can't go wrong with either one of them.

 

[Cantabrigian]

Originally Posted by gherrmann

(N.B.: I do realize that some of the above considerations ideally would be resolved prior to one's selection of an appropriate tailor.)

If you're spending a lot of money, I think that's really the only way to go.

It's a lot easier (in my very limited experience) to walk in and say I want a sportscoat than it is to say I want a sportscoat with X collar, X shoulders, lapels of X width, rolled to the X.25 button...

If you're going with one of the lowcost tailors, they seem to be more used to specific requests. If you are going that route, I think you've thought of the important things - I'd say be clear, bring photos where you can to show what you're talking about and don't be too overbearing.

 

[Jupiter]

I too was of the belted type. However, once I had trousers made without loops but with side fasteners it all changed. If you are going to go bespoke, why not get something different from all the MTM/RTW stuff out there.

 

[OxxfordSJLINY]

Originally Posted by Jupiter

Great list. I wish I would have had it when I started!

I would add belt loops or not, side tabs or button fasteners (Daks), and zipper or button fly.

Enjoy the experience.

Are button fasteners basically side tabs with buttons (usually with two buttons, once in a while, if at all, with three buttons, if memory serves correctly)?

 

[Concordia]

Originally Posted by Jupiter

I too was of the belted type. However, once I had trousers made without loops but with side fasteners it all changed. If you are going to go bespoke, why not get something different from all the MTM/RTW stuff out there.

Yes and no. I like braces with trousers much of the time, and you will almost never find good ones RTW.

But IMO the purpose of bespoke is not necessarily to get something different from what's in the stores-- just to get it better. If that means something eccentric or different, OK. If it means just getting the best-fitting belted grey flannels and 2-button navy blazer money can buy, that's OK too, if that is what you really want. Don't feel obliged to load up on gimmicks just to prove to yourself that you can.

 

[Tampan]

Actually having a list is good too. Crib notes for yourself only. Read it when you're in the change room. Read it just after you leave the tailors. It is possible you overlooked something while you were enjoying the experience. Something like pocket height may be safely left to house style, if you liked the style. Something like vents might differ from the house style, yet because you and your tailor were having such a ball, perhaps it was overlooked.

 

[kcc]

As others have written 1) select a tailor whose style best fit your body type, 2) communicate clearly throughout the entire process and 3) trust the expertise of the artisan.

Note it is important to articulate the purpose of the garment i.e., casual, business or otherwise.

Its a fun experience so enjoy it.

 

[Jupiter]

I agree with you Concordia, different in my case means better fabric, fit and a few details--I am not paying for a bespoke Dr. Evil suit.

With regard to button fasteners (I think the correct term is Daks belt), on the trousers I had made in London they have three buttons and a length of cloth with the buttonhole attached to an elastic material. The latter is hidden under the waistband. It is very subtle and unique.

IMHO, your best method to find out what something looks like is to ask the tailor if he can show you some trousers with them that he may have in the workroom. This has made my decision (either yay or nay) several times.

Again, enjoy the experience. Get the tailor to show you what he can do, and ask questions.

 

[gherrmann]

Originally Posted by Concordia

If it means just getting the best-fitting belted grey flannels and 2-button navy blazer money can buy, that's OK too, if that is what you really want. Don't feel obliged to load up on gimmicks just to prove to yourself that you can.

a valid point, to be sure.

 

[OxxfordSJLINY]

[/b]If you are spending a lot of money on tailored dresswear (suits, sportsjackets, dress pants and odd vests), bespoke truly is the only way to go.

I wish I had the excellent will to realize this sooner.

However, for two-piece suits (consisting of a jacket and one pair of pants, made out of the least expensive fabrics that the tailor of your choice has to offer), bespoke is the only way to go if the two-piece suit is no less than $3,000. Consequently, the overall starting price for a bespoke suit should also be no less than $3,000.

For three-piece suits (which can consist of a jacket, one pair of pants and a matching vest or a jacket and two similar or identical pairs of pants-either way, made out of the least expensive fabrics that the tailor of your choice has to offer), bespoke is the only way to go if the three-piece suit is no less than $3,500.

For four-piece suits (consisting of a jacket, two similar or identical pairs of pants and a matching vest made out of the least expensive fabrics that the tailor of your choice has to offer), bespoke is the only way to go if the four-piece suit is no less than $4,000.

Vincent Nicolosi's two-piece suits range from $3,000 (for a two-piece suit made out of the least expensive fabrics that he has to offer) to $5,000 (for a two-piece suit made out of the most expensive fabrics that he has to offer).

Vincent Nicolosi's three piece-suits range from $3,500 (for a three-piece suit made out of the least expensive fabrics that he has to offer) to $6,000 (for a three-piece suit made out of the most expensive fabrics that he has to offer).

Vincent Nicolosi's four-piece suits range from $4,000 (for a four-piece suit made out of the least expensive fabrics that he has to offer) to $7,000 (for a four-piece suit made out of the most expensive fabrics that he has to offer).

Also, all of the information above about what the minimum price should be for a suit for bespoke to be the only way to go should give people an idea about what the minimum price should be for the following tailored clothing for bespoke to be the only way to go: sportsjacket, pair of dress pants and odd vest. Vincent Nicolosi's prices are an excellent example of this.

Anyway, the price ranges above for Vincent Nicolosi's suits should give people an idea of the price ranges for Vincent Nicolosi's sportsjackets, dress pants and odd vests.

If memory serves correctly, Vincent Nicolosi is a tailor from Naples, Italy, who came to New York City in the late 1990s (I believe 30 years after he started his career as a tailor) at 54 to 56 years of age.

Also, all of the clothing that Vincent Nicolosi makes is exclusively bespoke with no ready to wear, made to measure and semi bespoke options offered for his clothing, I am happy to say.

I should mention that people here on SF, people on AAAC and in many articles that I have read on clothing related websites that are not clothing message boards have had nothing but excellent things to say about Vincent Nicolosi.