Pulling off a Lighter/Linen-based Jacket

[Rixon]

Hey SF Hive,

I've already received some feedback, but would appreciate more! I'll include the notes so far. What's the best way to pull off a lighter coloured sports jacket like the one I'm wearing?

Notes so far:
-Jeans are too baggy & don't wear a light jacket with dark blue jeans. (This surprised me. Well, the latter part.)
-Maybe not a white shirt?
-The jacket is too long. (Can you not have a longer sports jacket?)
-A few have mentioned that the jacket is oversized or not super fitted. This threw me off. This jacket is fitted in every way and could not be tailored any closer.
-There are some wrinkles. (Well, its 30% linen.)

Much love,

 

[iviustang50h]

The jacket does look a bit long, yes. This is difficult to alter. The shoulders appear to be too big, but I am no tailor so I could be mistaken. If they are too big, though, this is something I wouldn't bother altering because it's too expensive. Also, the button stance appears to be a little high, but it's hard to tell from your photo. As for not wearing a lighter color with dark blue jeans, I disagree with that and feel it looks just fine. YMMV. In the end, though, even though the jacket has some pattern and texture to it, it still looks a bit like an orphaned suit jacket.

 

[Rixon]

@iviustang50h Some good points. I'm glad you're okay with the jeans! I suppose length translates into a sports jacket looking like an orphaned jacket(?) I simply took it as a style. That is something I wouldn't mind tailoring if others agree. It is kinda fun, such that the jacket is so lightweight that anyone breathing in my general direction will lift the material.

Is the higher button stance not simply some Italian style? I've seen jackets like this once in a while from Zegna and Kiton.

The shoulders, if they are large, would only be by half a cm and I'll resolve that with the gym.

The jacket actually has a lot of texture:

 

[iviustang50h]

@iviustang50h Some good points. I'm glad you're okay with the jeans! I suppose length translates into a sports jacket looking like an orphaned jacket(?) I simply took it as a style. That is something I wouldn't mind tailoring if others agree. It is kinda fun, such that the jacket is so lightweight that anyone breathing in my general direction will lift the material.

Is the higher button stance not simply some Italian style? I've seen jackets like this once in a while from Zegna and Kiton.

The shoulders, if they are large, would only be by half a cm and I'll resolve that with the gym.

The jacket actually has a lot of texture:
View attachment 804326

Generally, a stand-alone jacket will be cut a little shorter, yes, but even as a suit coat it looks a bit long. The button stance "looking off" could be directly related to the length being too long, with the former being a more visual thing than anything else. Using your picture as a guideline, to my eye the stance looks too high, making your waste appear shorter and throwing off the proportions of your body/look. How how far above your belly button is the top button of the jacket?

Some Italian styles do offer a higher button stance, but - and someone can correct me if I am wrong - it is usually found on suit jackets, such as the Neapolitan style, which also offers a more open quarters, wider lapels and a higher gorge. I can't think of an instance where I've seen a "high button stance" on a stand-alone sport coat or blazer. I certainly haven't seen everything, though...

Your new picture definitely better defines the texture of the jacket, so I'd say you're okay in that department. For reasons previously mentioned, though, it still looks like an orphaned suit coat (that and no patch pockets or buttons using a different color, such as brown). Do you know for a fact that it's a blazer?

It sounds like you really want to keep the jacket, and by all means go for it; it just doesn't especially properly fit you in my opinion.

 

[emptym]

White shirt with jeans is good imo, and I like the jacket's texture. Things I'd change,

for jacket: lower button stance, switch flap for patch pockets, lower gorge, rumple it up.
for shirt: tighten cuff and switch french cuffs for barrel
for jeans: taper. They aren't loose anywhere but the ankles.
for shoes: Are they black? If so, I'd with burgandy shell/calf or brown suede.

 

[Rixon]

@iviustang50h I will take the measurement for you later today. You make a fair point about the button's placement in relation to the jacket's length. The jacket could likely be tailored up a bit, due to the height of the pockets that would not make it look 'off', in my opinion. I could also easily change up the buttons and remove the flaps on the pockets.

I am a person of precision and I'm getting the community here to help me build a mental model around historical and current trends in proportions. Just as I once thought my GAP blazer was amazing and red wine out of a box was to die for, I acknowledge lacking knowledge makes one blind to what may be wrong. I often need to see other people doing something for me to go 'oh, that's why I shouldn't do that.' Fit for me is a challenge, but this jacket is hugging my frame. I have a 42-43" chest that drops to a 31-32" waist, the side profile shows that a bit better. Getting a good fit is a challenge and off the rack I need a drop 8, 9, or more.

I cannot say with 100% certainty that this was not a suit. It was a consignment find, but it had no signs of wear anywhere and the label inside is a newer style. It's possible, but I felt since it's deconstructed, looking unused, linen-based, and delicate fabric that it would be a sports jacket. Although, intent of manufacturer doesn't matter to me. I think pants made out of this material would not last very long.

@emptym Thanks for the input!
1. Hard to rumple. It's 35% cashmere 35% silk 30% linen. It sort of just falls back into smoothness. Maybe I could play with the pockets a bit. I could remove the flaps. They even tuck in and completely disappear to create clean jets.
2. Shalt do.
3. Tapered pants have always looked odd to me. That's why I've always stuck to straight cuts in everything. Perhaps a narrower straight cut with ever so slight of a taper.
4. Dark picture. They're a dark brown. I don't own anything black these days.

 

[breakaway01]

My take on this is that the textured linen is an inherently more casual fabric, so the rest of the outfit needs to be coherent. The white shirt is too formal with French cuffs. Jeans are fine but I agree that they need to be a bit more tapered. Shoes are too dark. I can live with the length of the jacket; I'd prefer a lower buttoning point and patch hip pockets as well but obviously you can't change those.

 

[ThomGault]

The jacket is perhaps too wide at the shoulders, it's hard to discern; but I don't think that it's too long or too baggy. (However, you aren't standing straight, so the view could be distorted.)
I agree that the buttons are high, which shortens the lapels and makes it look a bit off...but as it's a casual jacket, I wouldn't mind it too much. But you've gotta skip the french cuffs.

 

[Rixon]

Haha, I'm enjoying the input everyone.

@breakaway01 I'm playing with the idea of shortening the jacket and that may balance the jacket. It appears the distance with the pockets will allow for this. I can make the pockets jetted. I do quite like the material on this piece.

@ThomGault I think it's more of the angle. Even my tailor tells me I'm fairly broad shouldered. My one thing on the button stance is that I do like the way it moves. Shortening the jacket may balance this (?). I'll skip the french cuffs in the future. My bad. :/

 

[emptym]

Ah, if the jacket's a wool/linen/silk blend, then that's great, no need to rumple or remove the flaps. Also, I don't think it was part of a suit, given the fabric. Imo, the flaps and fabric make it be better look better with slightly more formal pants, like stone chinos with creases and cuffs. For the shirt, french cuffs are fine, just unusual w/ jeans, but that could be your personal style if you really like it. Either way though, french or barrel, I'd make sure the cuff was snug enough against the wrist that it didn't cover your hand at all. The human leg tapers, so pants with a slight taper looks natural and straight cut ones look a little like bell bottoms. I like staight cut jeans w/ boots.

 

[iviustang50h]

@Rixon If you're willing to put in the tailoring work, I think this jacket could turn out well for you. It certainly fits well in the waste and chest, so if your tailor can shorten it you'll probably be okay. Changing the pockets isn't as crucial, so if you like the more formal appearance just leave them; I'd put my focus into the length and button stance.

Have you tried something like Levi's Slim Straight cut (513)? They still taper, just not as aggressively as the 511 Slims. They would pair much better with that jacket.

 

[Rixon]

@emptym that's a good point about jeans. Perhaps I'll take a look at some tomorrow. I have the Levi's 505 @iviustang50h and I'll go check out the 513. I've never really dived through all of the numbers with those guys. I certainly like the idea of stone colour with cuffs - perhaps trousers in that case.

I'll fix that with the shirt's cuffs. I do need to get some shirts made with a French cuff. It is a bit of a personal style. Where I rarely wear a tie in any situation, I tend to add some fanciness elsewhere. Cuffs, lapel pin, pocket squares, interesting styles from TF... I always had the impression that a shirt's length should be hitting the top of where the thump joint begins. Maybe that's just a middle eastern thing (I'm from Dubai).

 

[emptym]

Extra long and loose cuffs have been common in the US for a while too, just like pants that are extra long.