Poor man's watch thread

[ridethecliche]

I love monsters, but i think the dial scratches too easily.

 

[Journeyman]

But seriously, in the PMW category, how much uniqueness can one hope to find?

Well, you can find quite a bit of uniqueness, but most of it's ugly!

Seriously, though, I understand what you mean and, as I said in my previous post, it's not unreasonable to make a watch that pays homage to a classic, utilitarian design. After all, there's a reason that a lot of the classic diving watches from the 1950s, 60s and 70s looked very similar to each other - the designs made sense and were utilitarian and workmanlike.

However, I do think that the Tiger watch pictured above takes it a bit too far. Apart from the "T" for Tiger instead of the Tudor logo on the dial, the Tiger watch and the Tudor Heritage Black Bay are pretty much identical - same case shape, same bezel design, same bezel colour, same marker design, snowflake hands (which are very closely associated with Tudor), fabric strap and the style and content of the text on the bottom half of the dial.

Then again, that's just my opinion. It's an attractive watch design and the Tiger's a few thousand dollars less than the Tudor.

 

[BostonHedonist]

At the end of the day, almost all divers are Submariner derived. Sure they may have square or toothed indices or extra-wide hands, but they're not fooling anyone... That's why I support Seiko Starfish divers. They don't look like anything else.

 

[mimo]

It's also a reason I took the Orange Monster (rather than the black, but even that looks different).

Each to his own - some people like to have a cheaper hommage to beat around, and it's not the same as having a fake. But I do think there are cheaper watches (like the OM) that are worthy design pieces in their own right. For a diver, an Orange Monster or a blue Mako would seem like worthy and less derivative alternatives to a Sub-clone.

Here are three other watches, all under a grand US, all mechanical, of different styles, that I think emphasise the point: you can get real individuality and even real historical credibility, in a "PMW":

Stowa Baumuster B: if not the definitive "Flieger", then certainly one of them. Of five companies that made the originals - Wempe, Lange, Laco, IWC and Stowa - three still make a version. IWC is too expensive, Laco uses lesser movements. This stands proud with any of them, and is even a design invented by Stowa for the original piece. With a solid Swiss ETA movement, that is nicely decorated with a display back and sapphire both sides, too. About $800 as shown, at current exchange rates. I'm wearing one today. This is a remarkable watch for the money: great brushed case, wearable size, all that cred, and my personal favourite thing: that onion crown is a joy to wind (for fun that is, as it's an auto...)





Archimede Outdoor "Protect": a sports watch in the original sense, that doesn't need to be an oversized diver or complicated chrono. German case makers Ickler own this brand, along with DeFakto and Limes, for different price points and styles. Archimede do sporty watches and some of the German standards - a nice variety of quality pilots, deck watches and divers. And this. The case is very retro 70s, a modern but understated size, and both the case and bracelet are in a special hardened brushed steel. It comes in black dial and PVD versions too, with rubber and leather strap options. But I just love how clean this is: tough, clearly readable, water resistant, great lume, and I could really live with one for about $700. Swiss auto movement, too. Oh, and talking before of crowns - nice details here.



Junghans Max Bill Automatic: another use of the venerable ETA movement, in a classic Bauhaus design. There are a few versions, but this one stands out to me as the most distinctive. It doesn't look like a cheap Nomos, it looks like a Junghans Max Bill. And it's about $800 again. I don't know what else to say about it, really, because the design will be one you either love or don't. But if you do, I can't see any better value out there, or anything with more integrity at this price point.



Now, I can get a nice Seiko diver for $200, or a pilot or almost-dress watch, for under $100. I can get a nice manual Tissot for under $500. And I have, all of those things. They're great value. But staying in the realm of the PMW, I guess I'm trying to say that there is quite a lot out there to match different tastes and aspirations, without feeling you've bought a substitute for something else.

Gotta love the Germans, eh?

 

[Mead]

Those are 3 interesting brands

 

[BostonHedonist]

Those Stowa flieger watches are definitely on my radar for a future purchase. Amazing that a brand with their connection to history still sells significant mechanical pilot watches for under $1k! Makes me wonder why someone would go shell out almost ten grand for an IWC Pilot!

 

[ridethecliche]

I love that stowa. The junghans definitely reminds me of a nomos, but definitely not all the way.

 

[RogerP]

The Junghans Max Bill chrono has been on my want list for a looooong time.

 

[ridethecliche]

I don't like the archimede. The dial and face look cheap.

 

[Cant kill da Rooster]



I love that stowa. The junghans definitely reminds me of a nomos, but definitely not all the way.

I've always thought the Max Bill was closer to the Bauhaus style.

The Junghans Max Bill chrono has been on my want list for a looooong time.

I saw a chrono recently in person. Very nice watch for the price and very wearable for business and casual. I wouldn't hesitate to own one.

I don't like the archimede. The dial and face look cheap.

I agree on the sport white dial version but the Pilot might sway you a bit.

Those Stowa flieger watches are definitely on my radar for a future purchase. Amazing that a brand with their connection to history still sells significant mechanical pilot watches for under $1k! Makes me wonder why someone would go shell out almost ten grand for an IWC Pilot!

Not just the pilots but I had an Antea. The case and movement beautifully finished for a 1k watch. Nicely made watches.

 

[ShawnBC]

Nice post Mimo!

 

[Fred G. Unn]

On the subject of Stowa, what do y'all think of the Partitio?

https://www.stowa.de/Partitio/index.htm

With the continued strength of the USD against the Euro, this is now down to $600ish.

 

[TradThrifter]

Looks cool, but is almost too simillar to the Timex weekender

 

[mimo]

I think it has a nice, legitimate design history, and the white dial version especially is really attractive. Brings to mind the JLC Geophysic in the other thread, those numbers, the simple style, the proportions. Yes, I like. It's a modest size at 37mm by modern standards. But I think that's also to its credit: a touch bigger than a Rolex Oyster. This watch is not at all insecure!

 

[spiermackay]

Just had this delivered today. Very happy with it.

Seiko SPC087