Please critique my first Proper Cloth shirt

[Tony Stark]

Hello all,

This is my first post here. I've been lurking for a while and learning.

I'm tall and skinny, so I've never been able to find OTR shirts that fit. Brooks Brothers Extra Slim Fit are the closest to serviceable, and they still present all sorts of problems. Beyond that, I'm not a fan of their collars and I don't like pockets on my shirts.

I've tried moderntailor a couple times, and I've gotten my measurements close to good with them, but I liked the fabrics and options on propercloth.com so I thought I'd give them a shot. I particularly like the ability to customize the collar sizing, shift it back or forward, and the guarantee.

I copied my measurements beIow the photos. I took these measurements based off of the videos on Proper Cloth's site, and then I washed and dried the shirt per their instructions (since they say that they add material for shrinkage). Things I think I need to change are:

Collar: -.25"
Sleeve: +1"
Yoke: +1" total (.5" per side)
Chest and Hip: ??

This shirt, beside being a bit tight (even though I like them trimmer), has the same affliction that just about every shirt I try on does. From the front, it looks like it's hugging my body. From the side and back, you can see a bunch of excess fabric at my waist level. BB ESF does this even worse than others. I end up with the shirt flat across my stomach and a parachute in back. I'm not a fan of the look of darts on men's clothing, so I'd like to deal with this through other means if possible. I really despise excess fabric in the waist area and bunching up above the belt line though, so if darts are the only way, I guess I'll have to try that route.


Have at it. I know it looks bad. They'll remake it for me for free since it's my first order, so please help me fix it.

 

[Tony Stark]

Also wondering what's causing the puckering between the top two buttons... is that just because the collar is too big?

 

[Tony Stark]

No one? Did I miss a thread where I was supposed to post this type of request?

 

[Ivar]



No one?  Did I miss a thread where I was supposed to post this type of request?

Yes.

http://www.styleforum.net/t/265924/the-tailors-thread-fit-feedback-and-alteration-suggestions

 

[Tony Stark]

Yes.

http://www.styleforum.net/t/265924/the-tailors-thread-fit-feedback-and-alteration-suggestions

Thanks. I reposted there (pending moderator approval).

 

[mensimageconsultant]

(duplicate)

 

[mensimageconsultant]

Then nobody replied. People play games around here.

Perhaps the excess fabric from the rear is due to a sway back (lordosis).

The sleeve pitch is off, probably due to square shoulders.

The 'figure variations' are such that remote self-measure MTM is unlikely to work.

 

[Tony Stark]

Then nobody replied. People play games around here.

Perhaps the excess fabric from the rear is due to a sway back (lordosis).

The sleeve pitch is off, probably due to square shoulders.

The 'figure variations' are such that remote self-measure MTM is unlikely to work.

Ha, yeah... well thanks for replying here.

I am thinking you may be right about the lordosis. I can work on that, as well as putting on some weight in the right areas...

Are there any tweaks I can do to make this shirt fit *better* even if it will never be great? I get a free redo on this one, so I might as well see if I can get something useful out of it.

If online MTM isn't the way to go, is my only option full bespoke at a tailor? I'm thinking that may be cost prohibitive for me, but if it's the only way to get a proper fitting shirt, I'm not sure what else to do.