Need jacket sizing help.

[John Doe]

Hello everybody, long time lurker first time thread starter. I've gained a lot of info since finding this forum and have slowly been trying to upgrade my wardrobe. Like many here I look for deals for finer clothing online. My question is; what guidelines do those of you who buy suits or sport coats online use so you that your purchase will fit correctly?

I normally wear a 40R however I know this can vary depending on the style, cut, and brand of the garment. For example, I'm looking at a sport coat on ebay listed as a 40R (chest 42" shoulder 18"). My chest is 42" and front shoulder is 18" back shoulder 19". Does this mean the coat will fit skin tight or does it mean it will fit like a glove since my measurements and the coats are the same? Should I be looking at coats with an added inch compared to my measurements? How many inches of allowance should I look for to get a good fit? Again, what general guidelines will help assure a good fit when purchasing online? Thanks.

 

[DocHolliday]

You need room to breathe and move, so the coat must be bigger than your chest. These days, 2 inches is a common allowance. That's pretty slim. Traditionally, 3 to 4 was more the norm. So if your chest is 40 inches, you'll want a coat that has a chest of 42 to 44 inches, depending on your tastes.

However, the fact that you say your chest is 42 inches but you normally wear a 40R is a bit of a red flag. Something doesn't add up there, unless you're buying full-cut coats and wearing them very slim.

 

[John Doe]

Thanks Doc for the quick reply. What you say makes seems right but after trying on a Burburry(?) and Canali on today in a 44 they were just too big in the shoulder and chest. I tried on a Zegna in a 51(EU) and this seemed a good fit. Tried on some other brands in 41 and 42 which also seemed a good fit. I guess it comes down to trying on different brands and finding the right size for that particular brand.

As an aside how much can I expect a tailor to bring in a jacket with good results in the fit?

Thanks.