My second bespoke suit - Graham Browne review and beyond (add Base Fitting + Second Fitting)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by add911_11, Mar 6, 2012.

  1. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    Hello everyone,

    I came to the conclusion that I should have a Charcoal Grey suit in my wardrobe, after having a staple grey M&S fully canvass suit and a bespoke 3pc chalkstripe suit. At the beginning I was looking through various MTM program and ultimately end up having a order at Graham Browne, it is because I found their price very competitive to the HK bespoke makers, and it seems they are very liberal on fitting style and good range of fabrics.

    1st meeting:

    I went to the shop on the 29th February, It was around lunch time, and the shop helper 'Dan' had guide through the fabric selections and style, he was very helpful, not pushy and very willing to accommodate my needs, the initial purchase was very pleasant and I am already pleased. I can't wait for the first fitting to see how accurate they are with the measurements.

    My specification (I had this in my mind so the filing was very quick):

    The Blenheim Collection by J.J Minnis - super 130 with 16.8 micro wool (Dark Grey)
    6x4 DB with 3.75 inches peaked lapel
    Slightly roped shoulder, light padded and light canvass
    Ticket + straight pocket
    SB waistcoat with lapel, five buttons, four pockets
    Straight fit trouser, side taps, braces buttons, 1.5 inches turn ups, single inward pleat
    No back trouser pockets

    The above specification, cost £1500 based on the fabric, pretty similar to Hong Kong

    I will post some pictures after the 21st Feb, after my first fitting and tell you a bit more of the experiences
    At the end of the purchase, I will compare between the fit of my bespoke suits and comment on the craftsmanship
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2012
  2. Spong

    Spong Well-Known Member

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    I've had a jacket altered at Graham Browne on the recommendation of a friend and I was very pleased with the result.

    I'd happily take other items back there to be altered and plan on doing just that later this year.

    Good luck with the suit! Looking forward to seeing the finished result.
     
  3. inimitable

    inimitable Senior member

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    Do you get any handsewing for that price? Buttonholes and such?
     
  4. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    Thanks for that Spong, I am thinking to get my M&S tailored, there is a couple of things that could be improved, how long did an alternation take?

    In terms of handsewing, since the suit is bespoke made, yes to all the buttonholes and keyholes, stitches but I doubt the layering of canvass will be by hand, I do think the attachment of the canvass to the fabric would be by hand

    In fact, I don't think they charge extra for any handwork otherwise they should have make this clear

    Both keyholes working, left hand side will have a flower string
    5 button cuffs, all working

    I am thinking whether I should go for black horn or brown horn buttons
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2012
  5. Spong

    Spong Well-Known Member

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    Took about 10 working days. I had the jacket taken in a little and the sleeves shortened so it wasn't a huge amount of work.
     
  6. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Can you tell us about the God range of fabrics that Graham Browne offer?
     
  7. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    Nice, I might bring my suit to let them have a look, There is a good amount to do on the back and the sides. wonder how much they will charge....

    Hey Pat, their fabric choice are wide, The only brand I didn't spot is loro piana, that is really, they have huge harrison,J&J minnis, Holland & Sherry, Zegna ( didn't see 15 mil 15 or 17 mil 17), but really they have pretty much you need, didn't spot much Italian ones, they use the same lining book as the Savile Row tailors, the same book A&S would show to my dad where he would not give a damn, but I can't recall what it is called, probably cupro

    I will ask them next time
     
  8. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    2nd fitting, the Base Fitting

    On the 21st March, I went to the shop again for my first fitting. Mr Russell, my cutter helped me and guided me though the fundamental stuffs. I waited 20 mins for the waistcoat and jacket base to be completed. By the mean time, I got the shop to alternate my M&S Savile Row Inspired suit, which I intend to be used for the conservative meeting for the first impressions. The charged around £100, payable upon my second fitting. This included tapering the waist, cleaning the back, slimming sleeves, removing belt loops and adding braces buttons, Russell also ensured the extra side taps if there is enough fabric but that is not my main concern

    Firstly, I was surprised with the absence of trouser, he told me this will be the next stage, I was not sure whether the English tailor were known to have this convention. Firstly, I tried on the waistcoat (Ignore the bad facial impression)
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    Flickr 上 CHA-KDSC02629

    I found the waistcoat was pretty much prefect, with the clean back, we didn't put too much time on this, next the jacket

    p.s. Both items had full canvass, the waistcoat's lapel will be cut and put on separately in the future stages
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    Flickr 上 CHA-KDSC02632
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    Flickr 上 CHA-KDSC02638

    Firstly, the sleeves were attached, he pined down the extra parts, cut it off and worked on the shoulders carefully, I was very impress with the details and seeking to get the best out of the first meeting. Shoulder pads were slip under the jacket, It was a light pre cut one and I am happy with it, the shapes seems to balance with my shoulders and didn't result in uneven level front quarters.

    We had agreed on slightly longer front and back, natural waist buttoning, 2.5 inches shoulder to lapel distance and sharp lapels (3.75 inches width). I had asked for a fishtail trousers as an amendment and hopefully he did put a note because it was a relatively busy day for him. Overall I think the first fitting had been great, very good fit and professional, I am convinced that they will make a good item

    My next meeting will be 3rd April, I will again post some pictures and talk about the service and the garments.

    The cloth I used:
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    Flickr 上 CHA-KDSC02625

    Few pictures from the shop:
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    Flickr 上 CHA-KDSC02619[​IMG]
    Flickr 上 CHA-KDSC02620
     
  9. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

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    Terrific report - many thanks for sharing! Suit looks to come along nicely. Can't say the same thing for your shoes and shirt though; better make sure not to wear those to that important first impression meeting. Mr. Russel's dress also leaves room for improvement.

    Also, now that you shared these pictures, who's that in your avatar?
     
  10. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    the suit is fine, as to your other comments, how irrelevant, what nonsense.
     
  11. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

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    That says more about your sartorial inclination than I was hoping for.
     
  12. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    I pack those shirt, tie and shoes in my backpack, so it may not be the freshest thing

    How come no love on the shirts? I can understand you might hate the tie combination because I just grab the tie without any thoughts to the fitting
     
  13. ianGP

    ianGP Senior member

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    Subscribed! I'm excited for your final fitting!

    As with the shirt, I do like the pattern but to me the collar is a wee bit tall, covering the full length of your neck. Do you have other shirts with shorter collars?
     
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2012
  14. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    Hey IanGP, I love your PL suits and your snazzy style

    I do have some typical collar shirts, Most of my shirts are from M&S and Chester Barrie in House of Fraser

    The shirt I worn to the fitting is a Hawkes & Curtis 'causal' style two button collar shirts, TBH I like high collars a lot, in the future I will had my shirts made in this kind of collar......

    Russell did ask me whether I need the suit collar to be higher, I told him to keep the collar standard because this is just my type of thing....

    Next time, I will take my M&S sartorial shirt for the fitting, I will post some pictures again after 3rd April
     
  15. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Senior member

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    This all looks excellent - I will be visiting Graham Browne in a couple of weeks to get my Dashing Tweeds number started... nice to see some DT pieces in the window!
     

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