MTM or bespoke? (barrel chest problem)

[nbutter]

I've got a sizing issue, which I suspect is the sort of thing that can be addressed with a good MTM suit (Samuelsohn, Hickey, Oxxford), but I thought I'd ask here in the forum before setting off to get measured for one.

Basically, my chest is too big.* Or rather, my chest is big relative to the rest of me, especially my shoulders. (It was ever thus, and some lifting a few years ago added an inch or two)

As a consequence, most OTR suits have a "break" in the lapels. It's somewhat less pronounced with 3 button suits, and with certain makes, but it's almost always there, assuming the shoulders fit me.

Is this the kind of shape/size issue that an MTM suit will fix?

Or do I have to look at "bespoke"?

As a side question, where would you spend $1500 on a suit in NYC, given my issues? (I do realize that I can go to Mr. Ned for $800, but I'm willing to spend more for a better quality garment; however, I'm certainly open to hearing that I don't need to. I do realize there are threads for this, but I'm up for any current comments as well, with thanks in advance!)


* insert joke, and enjoy!

 

[Eustace Tilley]

If I were you I would not even bother with MTM. Spend a bit more than $1,500 (around $1,700) and you can get a good bespoke product from Ercole in Brooklyn.

 

[nbutter]

thanks - is that because I'll get a better garment for the price, or because mine is the sort of issue that MTM won't address?

basically, i'm sure that if i show up, say, at a Brooks Brothers MTM event, the tailor/salesperson will assure me that they'll make the suit look perfect, but if this is the kind of thing that MTM can't really fix (because pre-assembled parts don't help with this), then I may pass MTM up...

 

[Despos]

Originally Posted by nbutter

thanks - is that because I'll get a better garment for the price, or because mine is the sort of issue that MTM won't address?

basically, i'm sure that if i show up, say, at a Brooks Brothers MTM event, the tailor/salesperson will assure me that they'll make the suit look perfect, but if this is the kind of thing that MTM can't really fix (because pre-assembled parts don't help with this), then I may pass MTM up...

You will do best when the person cutting or making the suit sees you and or measures you. You need a special cut canvas to fit your chest and the jacket cloth cut in the same way. Fitting you is more about the canvas than the cloth.

Bespoke is not a given. You need a tailor with prior experience of working with your body type.

 

[fp1]

What are your measurements?

I only ask because I have some experience with MTM in New York city and I used to wear a 50xl out of college and have since become a 48xl since I'm not as muscular as I once was. When I had a 50xl, I had a 36inch waist as well but I seem to have stabilized now with a 48xl, 37ish waist.

A guy in my office is a 44xl with a huge barrell chest because he used to be some sort of powerlifter but never got huge shoulders for some reason. I know he goes to Mr. Ned for his suits and they seem to fit him well.

 

[nbutter]

i think i'm going to try Mr. Ned too, after some further research.

19" shoulders, 44.5" chest. sometimes i'll try on 44R OTR suits where the shoulders are way too wide, but the chest still pulls. 42Rs fit in the shoulders but not the chest.

I think i'll start with a simple solid grey suit at mr ned and see how i do!

thanks, SF...

 

[nbutter]

Originally Posted by Despos

Fitting you is more about the canvas than the cloth.

that makes a ton of sense. thanks.

 

[JordanB]

I'm not barrel-chested, but my chest is proportionately bigger than my shoulders. I had one suit made at Mr. Ned and another on the way. I've been very pleased thus far - fits great at a great price. I've also heard good things about Ercole, but it is double the price.

 

[nbutter]

i went to mr. ned today to order & get measured. very, very pleasant experience.