Looking for input from the pros re 'CMT'?

[chorse123]

Originally Posted by new obsession

To whom are you referring? Tip Top? And the $30 to which you are referring is the cost of fabric which would them be taken to a tailor for CMT service? (I like to incorporate new vocab.)

I think he means Rick Rosenthal.

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by brescd01

You don't try to save money by getting cloth the tailor could supply

No, but I do sometimes try to save money by getting cloth comparable to what is in the books, but at a lower price. For instance, two years ago I wanted a mohair suit. I found in the books the approximate shade I wanted, but at a substantial cost. Also, I was not terribly impressed by the quality of the goods, and certainly not at the price offered.

I found a nice piece at Tip Top, roughly the same shade, but gutsier. It cost one-fifth (20%) of the wholesale price of that other mohair. So, build in the the tailor's markup and it was more like a 90% savings. That's not insignificant. Now, I wouldn't have bought it had I not liked the cloth. And had I thoght the stuff in the books was better, I might have bitten the bullet and ordered it instead. In the end it was win-win for me, on that transaction.

All I'm saying here is that, if there is a specific cloth in the books that I know I want, and I know the tailor can get that very cloth, I will order it through him. On the other hand, if I want some general pattern/color that I know is in his books, but I can find some other version of comparable quality for less money, I will not hesitate to buy that.

 

[Sartorian]

About the Loro Piana fabrics:

Would any of the cashmeres they will feature be something good to pickup for making a sportcoat?

How much fabric does one need for just a sportcoat?

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by Sartorian

About the Loro Piana fabrics:

Would any of the cashmeres they will feature be something good to pickup for making a sportcoat?

Personally, I like their cashmere overcoatings. But their jacketings, not so much. But then I really don't care much for cashmere jacketings at all, so take that bias into account.

How much fabric does one need for just a sportcoat?

For an average sized guy, 2.5 yards should be plenty. If you are really big, or the cloth has a large scale plaid that is hard to match, get more.

As a general matter, when buying your own cloth, always get a bit more. Round up. It's nice to have some room for error and not make the tailor sweat. Plus, it's highly likely that you will be unable to get more should any problems arise.

 

[Sartorian]

Overcoats would require how much yardage, Manton?

I need one of those, too.

Originally Posted by Manton

Personally, I like their cashmere overcoatings. But their jacketings, not so much. But then I really don't care much for cashmere jacketings at all, so take that bias into account.


For an average sized guy, 2.5 yards should be plenty. If you are really big, or the cloth has a large scale plaid that is hard to match, get more.

As a general matter, when buying your own cloth, always get a bit more. Round up. It's nice to have some room for error and not make the tailor sweat. Plus, it's highly likely that you will be unable to get more should any problems arise.

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by Sartorian

Overcoats would require how much yardage, Manton?

I need one of those, too.

Depends to some extent on the styling, length, and your size. Four should do it for most purposes.

 

[Matt]

If you are really trying to bring the costs in, a lot of us have bought from Howard on eBay and been satisfied.

I should really get a commission from him for all the plugs Ive given him in the past couple of years, but his (vastly improved since my last visit) store is here

His prices absolutely cannot be beaten - but of course you trade off the crucial touchyfeely thing.

Ive only seen one negative comment on the boards about him (someone who said the color was misrepresented), but otherwise, pretty good feedback all round.

 

[Sartorian]

I personally am about to order my first MTM suit. And since I have read on here that Mr Ned's selection of fabrics can be limited, I figure I should just do it right the first time and be happy with something I've been able to choose myself.

I'm also interested in just going through the process, too.

Thanks for the answers to my questions.