London - MTM/Semi-bespoke suit advice needed (Budget: Below £1k)

[add911_11]



You don't need to visit Graham Browne just because you want classic fabrics. I daresay that most tailors will have the big names (Holland & Sherry, Harrison's etc). In any case, I think the priority for the OP is to get a well-cut suit (with fabric playing an important, though slightly secondary role). In addition, if a first suit is a nice shade of navy or charcoal, most, if not all tailoring houses will have something they can offer.
As I've reiterated, I've only seen a couple of suits coming out from Graham Browne that would pass muster, and my poor experience there has changed my opinion on them. The adage is true -- if it's (Graham Browne's prices) too good to be true, it probably isn't. If, however, the OP has had some experience bespeaking suits, and has confidence in directing the tailor, then you might consider using Browne, though there are many tailors better than him at marginally higher prices.

I actually meant never trust a UK tailor to make you a suit that will have the Italian vibe, I have not met a UK tailor that can handle paper weight stuff well yet, in the other side of the world, I think Hong Kong tailors are very good with light fabrics. anyway, thanks for the input.

I have tried Graham Browne myself, and I can say their garment making is top notch However I don't think their pattern cutting skills is on par with the big names, hence the price difference, plus you better be specific of the fit e.g. shoulder width and length with GB, they don't give much constructive advices.

 

[bboysdontcryy]



... they don't give much constructive advices.

This. Plus, at least in my experience, they didn't even attempt to address glaring problems during the fittings until I had to point it out to them.

 

[partoftheweeken]

Just got 2 suits from Suit Supply in Lime Street a couple months ago. Both MTM in super 110 for £500 each. Pretty pleased with them.

I can post pictures up if you want. I don't know much about suits but the cut seems very modern, I have broad shoulders and it softens them up a bit but is still very slim fitting round the waist. I'm not used to tailored suits so it feels a little like the suit is "holding" me, not sure if that is good or not?!

Obviously it blows my previous suits out of the water (either M&S suits and an off the peg Paul Smith one), and I'm very happy with them but I don't know how it compares to others to be honest...

 

[Benzoid]

Ah please do! Would love to see some pictures of some suits from suitsupply to do a comparison.

 

[partoftheweeken]

Sure thing, Ill do it this weekend. I wanted to get them on here anyway to check in the Tailors thread before I get it adjusted.

 

[GBR]



I actually meant never trust a UK tailor to make you a suit that will have the Italian vibe, I have not met a UK tailor that can handle paper weight stuff well yet, in the other side of the world, I think Hong Kong tailors are very good with light fabrics. anyway, thanks for the input.
I have tried Graham Browne myself, and I can say their garment making is top notch However I don't think their pattern cutting skills is on par with the big names, hence the price difference, plus you better be specific of the fit e.g. shoulder width and length with GB, they don't give much constructive advices.

You are absolutely right about HK cutters being capable of handling light cloths and British ones generally much less so. Your GB suit looked fine as I recall although he did not cut your trousers as you preferred- fish tail back.

 

[bboysdontcryy]



You are absolutely right about HK cutters being capable of handling light cloths and British ones generally much less so. Your GB suit looked fine as I recall although he did not cut your trousers as you preferred- fish tail back.

Yes, his (and Simon's coats) was one of the better ones. Though there was a little balance problem with the front of the coat riding upwards.

I'm interested though if it's true that heavy cloth drapes better? I was speaking with Patrick and he seems to think that the lighter Holland and Sherry drapes better than the Lesser 11/12 oz I showed him.

 

[Macallan]



Due to having no intermediate fitting, you mean? O'Flynn got my pattern nearly right on the trial shirt with only one minor adjustment needed so that model certainly seems to work well in his hands.

Although O'Flynn is not true-bespoke, I cannot criticise his skill; will definitely use him again - I was just using it as example of semi-bespoke

 

[add911_11]



You are absolutely right about HK cutters being capable of handling light cloths and British ones generally much less so. Your GB suit looked fine as I recall although he did not cut your trousers as you preferred- fish tail back.

Yep, not major problem there.

 

[bboysdontcryy]



Although O'Flynn is not true-bespoke, I cannot criticise his skill; will definitely use him again - I was just using it as example of semi-bespoke

Fitting a coat is harder than fitting a jacket? Possibly? So I'm not sure if it's an apt comparison.

 

[Macallan]



Fitting a coat is harder than fitting a jacket? Possibly? So I'm not sure if it's an apt comparison.

Whether something is more difficult to 'fit' or not, is a different discussion to whether something is bespoke or semi-bespoke. For example, my Cad & The Dandy suit has a bespoke jacket but semi-bespoke trousers, the latter was made straight to finish.

Does it really matter if something is bespoke or semi-bespoke, not if it fits; but then again, this is Style Forum.

 

[bboysdontcryy]



Whether something is more difficult to 'fit' or not, is a different discussion to whether something is bespoke or semi-bespoke. For example, my Cad & The Dandy suit has a bespoke jacket but semi-bespoke trousers, the latter was made straight to finish.
Does it really matter if something is bespoke or semi-bespoke, not if it fits; but then again, this is Style Forum.

What I meant was that a semi-bespoke shirt might fit far better than a MTM jacket because it's far easier to fit a shirt etc. hence I'm not convinced that one should use an experience with a semi-bespoke shirt maker as a benchmark to predict whether a MTM coat will fit just as well.

 

[bboysdontcryy]

Was stating these in general terms btw.

How was your CAD stuff? Good?

 

[Joeaverage]

Wanted to add to whippingboy's thoughts re Elizabeth Radcliffe - aside from being an Arsenal fan thoroughly pleased with everything she's made for me.
cool little spot in cockpit arts also.