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Is that a proper fit?

Italo Grossi

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Hi gentlemen,

I just bought my first tailored shirt on-line and I'm not quite sure if what I got its the proper fit.

My taste would tend to be more of a close fit than all saggy therefore the measures of my shirt are fairly tight to the body.

Thats my first shirt but Im planning in my buying many more soon. Any suggestions for the next lot?

Thanks




 

TheTukker

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If you're looking for a tight fit, this is pretty good for your first try. Just curious: where did you order from?
 

PhiPsi32

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What's the material/fabric? Did you wash and press it before trying it on? Or is this right out of the box? I would expect the sleeves to lay smooth. I don't have any custom shirts, but my slim fit off the rack shirts fit pretty well without any bunching up of the fabric.
 

VictorCelania

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I understand that you want the shirt to fit slimly, however if I were making you a custom shirt, I would make the chest probably 2" larger (in shirting terms, if you wear a 38 chest the actual measurement of the shirt would be 45") and the yoke (shoulder) 1/2" larger. The waist and sleeve lengths look good though. The other thing is it looks like you have a slightly sloped shoulder, along with a low left (your left) shoulder. If you can have this taken into consideration in your made to measure shirts and it will get rid of the diagonal lines from the armpit to collar bone as well as give you a bit more movement in the armpit since the armhole will be adjusted lower than it is right now. What's happening is that the shoulder is made for a regular shouldered guy, and your shoulders are pushing down into the armhole of the shirt make those creases. I imagine you have the same problem in suitings, where the armhole is snug on the left (the slope on the right probably wouldn't be affected too much). I hope this helps! If you have any further questions, by all means ask. I have 8 years in made-to-measure experience and am happy to answer questions.
 

VictorCelania

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Oh, and I would agree that if this is right out of the box and is not a wrinkle free shirt (I assume it's not) you will want to make it larger to accomodate shrinkage; after you have it laundered a few times at the cleaners, it will definitely shrink. If you wash it on cold, hang dry it and press it yourself, it's less likely to shrink as much. Cleaners are notorious for using hot water and while it's wet putting it on a hot press with starch which causes the fabric to contract.
 

Italo Grossi

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What's the material/fabric? Did you wash and press it before trying it on? Or is this right out of the box? I would expect the sleeves to lay smooth. I don't have any custom shirts, but my slim fit off the rack shirts fit pretty well without any bunching up of the fabric.
That's actually after being washed twice! The fabric feels very hard on the touch. It is 100% cotton. In case you are familiar with their job that's the trial shirt from modern tailor.
 

Italo Grossi

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I understand that you want the shirt to fit slimly, however if I were making you a custom shirt, I would make the chest probably 2" larger (in shirting terms, if you wear a 38 chest the actual measurement of the shirt would be 45") and the yoke (shoulder) 1/2" larger. The waist and sleeve lengths look good though. The other thing is it looks like you have a slightly sloped shoulder, along with a low left (your left) shoulder. If you can have this taken into consideration in your made to measure shirts and it will get rid of the diagonal lines from the armpit to collar bone as well as give you a bit more movement in the armpit since the armhole will be adjusted lower than it is right now. What's happening is that the shoulder is made for a regular shouldered guy, and your shoulders are pushing down into the armhole of the shirt make those creases. I imagine you have the same problem in suitings, where the armhole is snug on the left (the slope on the right probably wouldn't be affected too much). I hope this helps! If you have any further questions, by all means ask. I have 8 years in made-to-measure experience and am happy to answer questions.
Thansk for the great information. I'll make sure to check my shoulders hight and slope taking them in consideration for the next shirt. Very appreciated.
 

antipode

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Do post the next shirt. I'm interested in how it turns out.
 

Shirtmaven

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did you button the collar?
how did that feel?
there is a lot f pulling at the armpit on the chest.
ease up an inch . that will drop the armhole.
not sure if modern tailor can accommodate for your low left shoulder
also your right shoulder pulls forward. i doubt they can correct for that.

otherwise, You got your wish for a very trim shirt.
 

Italo Grossi

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did you button the collar?
how did that feel?
there is a lot f pulling at the armpit on the chest.
ease up an inch . that will drop the armhole.
not sure if modern tailor can accommodate for your low left shoulder
also your right shoulder pulls forward. i doubt they can correct for that.
otherwise, You got your wish for a very trim shirt.
two fingers room between my neck and the collar. Feels comfortable and its not too lose.
Yeah, I knew there was something wrong but for my lack of knowledge in tailoring I couldn't really figured out what exactly to change.
My right shoulder pulls forward. You are right, spot on. This gives me a lot of trouble with well fitted suit jackets. I can always see my shoulder bone pressing against the fabric.
I don't think modern taylor can adjust that for me.

I understand that you want the shirt to fit slimly, however if I were making you a custom shirt, I would make the chest probably 2" larger (in shirting terms, if you wear a 38 chest the actual measurement of the shirt would be 45") and the yoke (shoulder) 1/2" larger. The waist and sleeve lengths look good though. The other thing is it looks like you have a slightly sloped shoulder, along with a low left (your left) shoulder. If you can have this taken into consideration in your made to measure shirts and it will get rid of the diagonal lines from the armpit to collar bone as well as give you a bit more movement in the armpit since the armhole will be adjusted lower than it is right now. What's happening is that the shoulder is made for a regular shouldered guy, and your shoulders are pushing down into the armhole of the shirt make those creases. I imagine you have the same problem in suitings, where the armhole is snug on the left (the slope on the right probably wouldn't be affected too much). I hope this helps! If you have any further questions, by all means ask. I have 8 years in made-to-measure experience and am happy to answer questions.
Hi Victor.

Just a quick check, see if that makes sense.

I will keep the same measurements for:
Collar, Sleeve length, half biceps, half waist,half hip.

I will add and extra 1/4 or 1/3 inch to the arm hole. At the moment I have room for 2 fingers(same as the collar) in between the arm hole and my armpit area.
(I read somewhere I should try to keep this as tight as possible to avoid "shirt lifting". Is that correct? Should I loosen up a bit?)

Here is the thing with my chest measurements:
My body measurement is 109cm going around the chest(Right below the armpit area).
The shirt I ordered has a half chest measurement of 55cm or 110cm around. So basically I have 1cm room in my chest area.
At the moment I didn't realize this was too tight.

Im thinking of increasing the half chest to 57 which would give a 5cm room in the chest area. Any comments on this?

Regards my body features.

As you will see in the attached pictured I can go for a sloping shoulder or average. Based on the picture they provide on the website Im not quite sure if I should go for the Sloped shoulder. What do you think?

For the Back. I initially ordered as average back but I will change it to bent.



I think thats all.

Thanks everybody for the comments and help. Hope more people can learn from this.
If anyone has any comments to add please feel free.
 

GBR

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Not bad for that manufacturer.
 

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