Is all Harris Tweed equal or are some more equal than others?

[merkur]

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[Tangfastic]

I think Harris tweed just has to be made on Harris to qualify for the name. I don't know how many separate mills there are or if they vary hugely in quality. I'm sure someone here will know. Here's a selection of Bookster's fabrics: http://www.tweed-jacket.com/CLOTH%20...LERY/index.htm The heavier weight tweeds cost a little more it seems.

 

[Dewey]

The thrift-store Harris Tweed that I've seen is usually baggy and whipped out. The weave loosens or something. It's hard to describe. The jacket might be ten years old and it looks saggy and wrong. I'm not sure if this is problem only for the lighter weight Harris Tweeds common to cheap fused jackets, or what, but I have had vintage Harris Tweeds - from the 1960s - that were denser, more hard-wearing, and still looking good after 40 years.

 

[mack11211]

Originally Posted by Dewey

The thrift-store Harris Tweed that I've seen is usually baggy and whipped out. The weave loosens or something. It's hard to describe. The jacket might be ten years old and it looks saggy and wrong. I'm not sure if this is problem only for the lighter weight Harris Tweeds common to cheap fused jackets, or what, but I have had vintage Harris Tweeds - from the 1960s - that were denser, more hard-wearing, and still looking good after 40 years.
Perhaps this is just because the jackets were worn to death. Harris is just a brand that did a good job of branding, so much so that many coats were sold on the name of the cloth. Makers sold them this way because cloth you can feel while quality of make is harder to determine. Some makers refuse to put fabric makers' labels on their clothing because they think it is declasse. Polo is like this, Paul Stuart as well. But there are many good mills for tweed, mostly in Scotland or Ireland.

 

[Dewey]

Originally Posted by mack11211

Perhaps this is just because the jackets were worn to death.

Could be. No one knows what's happened with those thrift-store clothes.

 

[dsmolken]

Some Harris tweed sportscoats at my local mall for $200 at only 30% off. They look cool, but I'm guessing they're of the "less equal" variety.

 

[ManofKent]

Generally the cloth is pretty good no matter what the jacket is like. The older stuff tends to be heavier weight, but the lighter stuff can be good if well tailored.

Harris Tweed has to be woven on a small group of Scottish Islands, some of it (particularly the older stuff) is woven on the crofts some in larger mills.

The quality of jackets varies greatly, from beautifully tailored pieces to the cheap and nasty just like any other jacket. The jackets are made all over the world by big and small firms.

 

[passingtime]

Originally Posted by ManofKent

Generally the cloth is pretty good no matter what the jacket is like. The older stuff tends to be heavier weight, but the lighter stuff can be good if well tailored.

Harris Tweed has to be woven on a small group of Scottish Islands, some of it (particularly the older stuff) is woven on the crofts some in larger mills.

The quality of jackets varies greatly, from beautifully tailored pieces to the cheap and nasty just like any other jacket. The jackets are made all over the world by big and small firms.
The cloth is only made in crofts, together with the use of local wool it's a requirement for the trademark. The cloth will be finished an the mill. There is only one mill but the previous owner is meant to be setting up in competition. Cloth is woven ad-hoc or to the requirements of the buyer who specifies the design and weight - although the quality doesn't vary much (there is only so much you can do with a hand loom).

There are non-Harris tweed tweeds from the Hebrides with Breanish the most well known. Generally Harris tweed wears well although it definitely will bag because it's a fairly loose weave but if it's properly tailored that shouldn't be a problem other than with the pockets which will get baggy if they are overfilled. It's not uncommon for people to do this deliberately in the UK countryside to give the jacket a lived in look.

 

[ManofKent]

Originally Posted by passingtime

The cloth is only made in crofts, together with the use of local wool it's a requirement for the trademark. The cloth will be finished an the mill. There is only one mill but the previous owner is meant to be setting up in competition. Cloth is woven ad-hoc or to the requirements of the buyer who specifies the design and weight - although the quality doesn't vary much (there is only so much you can do with a hand loom).

There are non-Harris tweed tweeds from the Hebrides with Breanish the most well known. Generally Harris tweed wears well although it definitely will bag because it's a fairly loose weave but if it's properly tailored that shouldn't be a problem other than with the pockets which will get baggy if they are overfilled. It's not uncommon for people to do this deliberately in the UK countryside to give the jacket a lived in look.

I thought there were currently three mills in operation?