Invertere

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by I. Gentantithesis, Nov 25, 2009.

  1. I. Gentantithesis

    I. Gentantithesis Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    Noticed Invertere mentioned recently on a thread. Invertere Coatwrights was established early in the 20th century in Newton Abbot, Devonshire, England on the SW seaboard, near Torquay - the site of Fawlty Towers.

    Invertere made high quality sporting and travel outerwear. It originated the reversible cotton gaberdine/tweed Balmacaan style raincoat. It was also famous for its shawl collar, hip length 'Buffer' coat in various fabrics. The 'Gotthard' was an iconic double breasted Ulster steamer/storm coat, oft alpaca pile collared and lined - Paul Stuart called its version with an exterior shell of alpaca pile, sans epaulettes, the 'Bearcat'. It was oft private-labeled without an indication of 'Invertere' - Bullock & Jones being an example. T'was a staple of upscale "Ivy" shops specializing in ye olde Englishe shoppe type raiment in the mid 20th century - Cable Car, The Andover Shop, Herzfelds. Alan Flusser's Style & The Man mentions Invertere when listing brands of European Anglophillic stores. Some deemed Invertere rain-wear superior to Burberry and Aquascutum.

    At one time the Invertere entity also marketed outerwear under the West Country Clothing brand.

    Unfortunately, Invertere at this point is defunct. In the UK the last of Invertere's factory inventory was acquired by www.tweed-jacket.com and has been eBayed. There may be a small cache remaining. In the U.S. the distributor was www.kuehnert.com (also long the U.S. representative of Traditional Weatherwear of Cumbernauld, Scotland - the maker of the 'Mackintosh' brand). Kuehnert's Invertere inventory was liquidated on eBay by the owner's wife's equestrian oriented 'Outfoxedfarm' seller identity.

    Two Invertere items currently appearing on Yoxx would appear to be of the type that actually retailed for circa $1000. Another source of old stock Invertere is O'Connell's of Buffalo, NY.

    Another one bites the dust.

    (I first contacted Mr. Graham of Invertere in the early '80s and subsequently acquired seven or eight coats, including three Gotthards; camel colour bearcat type, alpaca lined small check undyed homespun tweed and alpaca lined lovat whipcord. Now all one require's a series of unending crossings of the pond on the QM, lle de France, etc. twixt The Wars.)

    Addendum: 'Invertere' is from the Latin 'to turn about', a reference to its original reversable motoring Balmacaan.
     


  2. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    Well done, and great photograph.


    - B
     


  3. tobinbridge

    tobinbridge Senior member

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    Did Invertere employ proprietary sizing for their coats? Yoox displays the duffle coat in a size 40UK and measures 34 inches. Either the website is inaccurate or Invertere were more inventive then I once thought.
     


  4. Mark Seitelman

    Mark Seitelman Senior member

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    I have a variation of the "Bearcat" coat which was sold at Barneys about 10-12 years ago. It is my warmest coat, great for snow storms.

    Does any other manufacturer make a variation of the "Bearcat"?
     


  5. rnoldh

    rnoldh Senior member

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    Wonderful story of a once great company.

    I think I have one with the very big horn buttons.

    It's in storage and I didn't get to wear it much in Houston, Tx.

    I'll see if I can find it. While I'm sure the quality is excellent it's the durability that sticks out. The cost seems bullet proof and I bet it will last 100 years.
     


  6. LaoHu

    LaoHu Senior member

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    Very interesting and informative post. Thank you.
     


  7. Flieger

    Flieger Senior member

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    Didn't Vox call them the Idiot Savants of men's overcoating?
     


  8. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    I have a treasured gray melton belted greatcoat from them
    purchased in Chicago close to 30 years ago. My friend used
    to call it my "mission to Moscow" coat. It has a prominent
    place in my "clothing museum"
     


  9. M. Charles

    M. Charles Senior member

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    I have about 7 or 8 Invertere coats. Very top notch. Very Ivy.
     


  10. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    From early posts I recall that you are a patron of Winston Tailors.
    Correct? I used to shop there, RTW and MTM 70s through the 90s.
    Nearly forty years ago I purchased a British Warm from Chipp.
    Very heavy, 32 oz, I believe. A wonderful coat for Chicago, where
    I lived at the time. It went to Goodwill a few years ago with frayed
    cuff, etc from long service.
     


  11. radicaldog

    radicaldog Senior member

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    A great company, sorely missed. I'm very envious of my father's trench coat and duffle.
     


  12. Coatwright

    Coatwright New Member

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    I am the "Mr Graham" mentioned in this thread and you may be interested to know that Invertere is not "defunct" but has simply been hibernating for a while. Watch this space.... I'll keep you posted.
     


  13. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

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  14. williamson

    williamson Senior member

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    I am the "Mr Graham" mentioned in this thread and you may be interested to know that Invertere is not "defunct" but has simply been hibernating for a while. Watch this space.... I'll keep you posted.

    Delighted to hear it, and I'm sure very many others are.
     


  15. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    Delighted to hear it, and I'm sure very many others are.

    +1 !!
     


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