Indochino Salvage - Help!

[apt_temerity]

So I ordered an Indochino suit and took the salesperson's advice on the suit. Then I started reading this forum and others and realized that I really would like more of a classic menswear style (I don't want to have to keep buying suits). So, I'm going in on Saturday to have them do the adjustments to the suit (all free). How can I get them to move this suit more towards a classic style?

I'm short (5'5") - so that factors into some of the decisions (e.g. shorter jacket). 42 years old. My arms are also unusually short.

Here are my initial thoughts:

1. The Jacket
   • It is definitely too tight across the stomach (the x) - so that needs to be fixed.
   • The sleeves of the jacket bunch up - is this because the sleeves are so narrow? Some other reason? Should I have them let out the sleeves?
   • Other comments about how the jacket could be transitioned to more of a classic style? Or other areas it doesn't fit?
2. The pants
   • It's hard to get a good read on the pants because they are so tight and bunch up. They definitely seem too narrow.
   • Once the pant legs are widened - I'm trying to figure out the break. I'm short - so it seems that even a 1/2 break makes me look shorter. And at the same time going with something like no break seems trendy and should go out of style.
   • The rise on the pants is low. These sorts of pants fit me much better than normal or high rise pants. Does the low rise take them out of the classic menswear category? I know you can't change the rise on these pants - but just asking for future pants.
3. Anything else?

Thanks so much for your help guys - figuring this all out is quite a challenge.

 

[breakaway01]

There are some things that can be tailored and some that would require a remake. If possible I would ask for a remake if your goal is a more classic fit.

In my opinion the biggest problem is that the buttoning point of your jacket is very high. Coupled with the low rise of your trousers, this leads to the visible triangle of shirt and belt buckle below your jacket button, which is made worse by the tightness of the jacket. It also tends to exaggerate one's hips and can make you look shorter than you are. A lower buttoning point will give you a longer lapel line. The buttoning point cannot be lowered in a finished jacket.

Jacket:
- buttoning point too high as discussed above. Can't be tailored.
- agree that waist is too tight. This can be let out.
- sleeve bunching is because the sleeves are too narrow particularly in the elbow and forearm. They are too aggressively tapered. This could potentially be fixed by tailoring if there is enough outlet in the seams. Left sleeve is too long (easily fixed).
- there is the hint of a collar gap on your left. If this is true then this needs to be addressed. In some cases it can be fixed by tailoring. Otherwise the shoulder width looks good and the sleeveheads also look good. A view of your back would be good, but the side view suggests that the back is probably okay.
- personally I don't love hacking (slanted) pockets on a suit but that is a personal choice. Obviously can't be tailored.

Trousers:
- if they feel narrow then they are too narrow
- If you widen then then you will need more length for the trousers to touch your shoe. How much break is entirely up to you; fortunately this is easy to change.
- trouser rise is very low for a classic fit. A low rise also makes the problem of the exposed shirt/belt buckle more difficult to fix. I really would recommend increasing the rise but I understand that you find higher rise trousers less comfortable. This is not a typical observation, though (usually most men find higher rise trousers more comfortable) so I wonder whether there is a specific issue with trouser fit on your body that needs addressing.
- trouser fit can be tricky but clearly trousers are not hanging cleanly in the back. Some of this may be due to narrow trousers catching on your calves but there may be something else going on. See my point above.

 

[apt_temerity]

breakaway01 - thank you so much. I can't tell you how helpful your recommendations are. All of the points you make help to contextualize the larger problems. It shows how hard it is to get a MTM suit that actually fits and isn't too trendy. Attached is a photo of the back of the suit.

 

[breakaway01]

the back of the jacket looks good.
I think at least part of the problem with the trousers is that they are too tight in the seat and thighs. Thus they can't hang neatly down the back of the leg. Basically when you are standing upright, the trouser legs should be able to hang straight down.

 

[apt_temerity]

breakaway01 - thanks - that's helpful. It will be interesting to see how far they are willing to go with changing/remaking the suit.

I did some research on where the buttoning point should be - and it sounds like the buttoning point should be right around my waist. For this jacket - that would put it almost exactly where the 2nd button is. Would that mean for a remake I would need to have the jacket longer? I did the trick of measuring from the top of my collar to the bottom of my trousers and then dividing it in two and the jacket looks like it could be a tiny bit lower (see photo below - both lines are the same length).

Thanks!

 

[breakaway01]

I probably wouldn't put the buttoning point right at your waist. As you implied, it may put the buttoning point visually too low relative to the jacket. You could probably place it about 1-1.5" above your natural waist and also lengthen the jacket a bit but not a lot, or else it may make your legs look too short. Say 0.5" or so.

 

[apt_temerity]

breakaway01 - thanks for all of your guidance - really appreciate it.