• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

I have ordered my first bespoke suit!!!

Nonk

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2004
Messages
745
Reaction score
1
It is with great excitement that I have to report that I finally made the leap and ordered my first bespoke suit today. (First for me, I own a Savile Row bespoke suit that I picked up in Bertie Wooster’s on the Fulham Road, previously having belonged to some now presumably long dead Guards Officer)

I visited Coleman’s in Leicester today and having threatened it for a few years, ordered a suit from Barry Coleman

( http://www.ileicestershire.com/profi...Coleman-&-Son/
and mentioned by bracemaker on AAAC here: http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/f...hlight=coleman )

I had decided in advance on something in a grey cloth as it is an obvious gap in my wardrobe, but Barry persuaded me to not go for yet another stripe, so I selected a very dark charcoal grey (Hey, what the hell, it goes with anything and will meet the subfusc requirements when Roy Foster sees the light and admits me to Oxford!). The cloth is an oyster 13oz (Bunch No 760, swatch no. 76056) by Lear Browne & Dunsford.

I selected a scarlet lining from Richard James Weldon (Book 1B, no 2228) with a Lear Browne & Dunsford sleeve (and trouser internal stuff around the waist, whatever the term for that is) lining. (Tenth Anniversary Edition, Plain & Fancy Linings, no. T760, basically off-white with red stripes)

The suit is to be 2 button, single breasted with peak lapels. Twin vented, it will have slightly slanted pockets and a ticket pocket, 4 working cuff buttons, full Savile row spec, re canvas, hand work etc etc (Barry and his cutter Paul are both Row trained, and Barry has won the Golden Shears in the distant past)

I do prefer a rather large lapel buttonhole, which note has been made of for later (I am a 'rule of thumb' type of guy. I actually use them and like to be able to accommodate rather large carnations) I requested three internal pockets. Two set very high in the breast which I prefer and one internal ticket pocket. I declined a button fastening, as I never use them.

The coat will be accompanied by a double-breasted, peak lapel waistcoat, with inclined buttons/fastening (If that makes sense, they form a V, rather than run vertically) and 2 lower pockets.

I ordered two pairs of trousers. One is a full brace back (see here for an example if you are unfamiliar: http://www.bownsbespoke.com/bespokesuits.htm) with straight pockets, single inward facing pleat, flapped back pocket, side adjusters and 18 inch bottoms with deep turnups.

The second pair is also fitted for braces, but with a simple fishtail split on the waistband and also have side adjusters, but no turnups.

I specifically requested rather deep pockets (No jokes please) in black lining.

My hunchback, freaky chest, differents size shoulders, different leg lengths, different arm lengths and fat arse etc were all noted (although not in those terms) and will hopefully be well accounted for/hidden.

Total cost, including VAT is £1635. I have been buying RTW and getting alterations done there for a while so Barry did what he could for me on price. (He informs me it would be 4k in London)

I expect to have the first fitting in around 4 weeks.

Cant bloody wait to get this thing!!!!

Thoughts/opinions?
 

Golf_Nerd

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2007
Messages
1,200
Reaction score
3
Congrats!
 

The_Foxx

Distinguished Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2002
Messages
3,905
Reaction score
1,917
looking forward to photos when you go for a fitting/ upon completion of your suit. I'm always amazed when gents buy SB suits with peaked lapels, which seem more of a special occasion or social setting suit than for conservative businesswear, but to each his own.
 

Nonk

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2004
Messages
745
Reaction score
1
Originally Posted by The_Foxx
looking forward to photos when you go for a fitting/ upon completion of your suit. I'm always amazed when gents buy SB suits with peaked lapels, which seem more of a special occasion or social setting suit than for conservative businesswear, but to each his own.


Is is not really intended for business as I don't 'work' (in the strict sense) and plan on never doing so again!

Plus whats the point in getting a bespoke suit thats the same design as every other RTW suit in every shop? If I could afford many, perhaps, but this is pure indulgence!
 

Charlie

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 31, 2007
Messages
105
Reaction score
1
Nonk;1321441 said:
Is is not really intended for business as I don't 'work' (in the strict sense) and plan on never doing so again!QUOTE]

Wow. I wish I could say something like that . . ..
 

Nonk

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2004
Messages
745
Reaction score
1
Charlie;1321486 said:
Originally Posted by Nonk
Is is not really intended for business as I don't 'work' (in the strict sense) and plan on never doing so again!QUOTE]

Wow. I wish I could say something like that . . ..



Lazy student/ wannabe academic.

After 19 years in the military and Police I don't classify it as 'work' in the strict sense.

I have not been injured yet due to it, I get to sleep in a bed every night and if I screw up it makes absolutley no diffference whatsoever!

Pinch me.
 

GBR

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2006
Messages
8,551
Reaction score
733
Congratulations - hopefully you will illustrate it as it progresses.
 

The_Foxx

Distinguished Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2002
Messages
3,905
Reaction score
1,917
amen, brother! If anyone deserves a slick suit with some cool details like peaked lapels, it's a veteran. wear it in good health, hope you can tool around like Bertram Wooster did in your fine duds.

I did the same thing not long after leaving the military, but didn't serve nearly as long as you did!


Nonk;1321570 said:
Originally Posted by Charlie


Lazy student/ wannabe academic.

After 19 years in the military and Police I don't classify it as 'work' in the strict sense.

I have not been injured yet due to it, I get to sleep in a bed every night and if I screw up it makes absolutley no diffference whatsoever!

Pinch me.
 

Sator

Distinguished Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2006
Messages
3,083
Reaction score
39
Originally Posted by Nonk

The suit is to be 2 button, single breasted with peak lapels.

The coat will be accompanied by a double-breasted, peak lapel waistcoat, with inclined buttons/fastening


Now, now unless we're American lets stick to calling them pointed lapels or double breasted styled lapels/collars
smile.gif


This is from A.A. Whife (Ed), London 1951:

LapelTypes_Whife.jpg


It's from the women's tailoring section but there is a similar description in the main, men's tailoring section.

BTW, I think what you've ordered sounds splendid! It also sounds like excellent value compared to what you pay on Savile Row.
 

Nonk

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2004
Messages
745
Reaction score
1
Thanks for the interest gentlemen.

I called into Coleman's yesterday to have a few alterations done on some other times and my 5m of cloth has arrived.

It is wonderful and Mr Coleman spent a little time with me chatting about it.

I think the main issue I am going to have with this process is impatience!

I was hopeful that just maybe it would be ready by Remembrance Sunday, but that seems very unlikely now. Shame, it would have cut a dash with my new Bowler. (The lining even matches)

I shall take a camera with me when I go for the first fitting and take some pics.

I appreciate this whole process is very familiar and therefore perhaps a little dull for many members, but it's a first for me and I cannot contain my excitement!

Mr Coleman even agreed to rush an alteration I needed doing on my trews to the front of the queue so they would be ready to wear at a function next week (which has sadly now been cancelled) as I was now a "˜proper customer'!

The lads here in university did have quite a laugh when I recently spoke of "˜my tailor', however the ladies found it "˜quite cool'. (and that of course is what it's all about!
smile.gif
)
 

clarinetplayer

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2002
Messages
4,612
Reaction score
7,677
Getting a second pair of trousers is a wise investment. The coat will last forever, but trousers have a lifespan for wear.

Overall, what an outstanding design.
 

Anthony Jordan

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 9, 2006
Messages
508
Reaction score
10
Sounds excellent, and I agree that the second pair of trousers is a wise choice. I have three peaked lapel [pace Sator!] suits, one of which is a three piece, and I like them very much. I hope that you get many years of wear out of it.
 

Featured Sponsor

How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 92 37.2%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 90 36.4%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 27 10.9%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 42 17.0%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 38 15.4%

Staff online

Forum statistics

Threads
507,006
Messages
10,593,434
Members
224,355
Latest member
ESF
Top