Higher-quality seersucker?

[MrG]

The recent thread on pairing a seersucker coat made me realize it might be time for me to buy some new seersucker. In the past I've always tended toward Haspel, given it's sort of the old standby for seersucker. However, before I drop any cash on new stuff I thought I'd drag the SF waters to see if anyone has any opinions on various brands. I know there are other places that make seersucker clothing, but I'm curious as to members' opinions on the various manufacturers.

Some questions:

Is there such a thing as higher-quality seersucker clothing?

If you wear it, what maker of seersucker suits do you prefer?

Is the difference between, say, Haspel and higher-end seersucker suits as profound as it is for more formal suits (e.g. is it really worth spending more for something better)?

 

[tsherry]

I have a Hickey Freeman tan and white seersucker that had retail tags of $1100. I bought it new from a forum member for considerably less and like it a lot. My grey and white is Jos. A. Bank and although I always get complements on it., the shoulder padding turns me off. The HF is much better made and less padded, but still seems just a tad too structured for what I consider a really informal look. Bottom line, I like it enough that I would spend $300-$400 to replace the JAB in gray or blue if I came across it, but not enough to pay anywhere near $1K for a cotton casual suit.

 

[rnoldh]

I agree that $1,000 or more for a seersucker suit is a bit much.

Someone like Manton would know if the true bespoke tailors ever do anything in seersucker.

I have some seersucker stuff made by Orvis. It's probably not as good as the HF suit but better than the JAB.

 

[edinatlanta]

Will has some thoughts about this and will say much like any other fabric that you need a bespoke version for superior quality.

HOWEVER, I've also read e that the weight of the fabric makes it a bit of a waste to get an expensive suit as it will fall apart regardless of how much one tries to prevent that from happening (or something like that).

I'd say, shoot somewhere in the middle and JAB or Brooks Brothers at the highest end will more than suffice.

 

[pbc]

There are several suppliers of seersucker in the US. All have their supporters and detractors. Common considerations are:

Cost, for a cotton suit that typically lasts about 5 years, give or take, giving in to sagging or discoloration.
Lining, half or unlined jacket and unlined pants being more traditional.
Darts, present or not.
Pleats, present or not.
Buttons, white or brown; horn, plastic or mother-of-pearl.
Shoulder, padded or natural.
Fabric, all cotton preferred. All of the suppliers mentioned have all cotton suits.

Haspel's seersucker suits are classic and inexpensive, but some don't like the darts. I've found them to be crisp in their construction. Half-lined jackets, two or three button, single breasted, center or side vents, with double-pleated or flat front pants. Several candy stripe color options as well as solids and other patterns, including pinfeather (pincord). Made in the Philippines. $189.

Joseph Bank has all their seersucker on deep discount for today and tomorrow. Some have complained that they wear warm, and Joseph Bank introduced the new StaysCool liner with NASA engineered fabrics to keep you cool. (Obviously not traditional.) I haven't tried it myself. They also have several options: 2-button, 3-button, double or single breasted, pleated or flat front pants. The jackets are "soft shouldered," darted, and fully lined; pants half-lined. Several candy stripe color options. Imported. Currently $99-$158.

O'Connell's are natural shouldered 2.5 button center-vented jackets with pleated or flat front pants. I don't think they have darts, but I'm not sure. Blue/white only. Made in the USA. $345.

J.Crew sells slim fitting 3 roll 2 darted suits. Pants are slim fitting with a lower rise and flat front. Fully lined jacket, center-vented, with unlined pants. Blue or khaki candy stripes. Made in Japan. $296.

Brooks Brothers sells both suits and separates; jackets are 2-button, center-vented, and darted. Suit comes with mother-of-pearl buttons, pleated pants and navy/white candy stripes only, made in Thailand. Separates are either pleated or flat front pants, navy/white or blue/white candy stripes, imported. Flat front pants can be ordered in red/white candy stripes. Also has a pincord suit in tan, imported. $388-$600

Orvis sells separates: a fully lined 3-button, darted, center-vented jacket with brown horn buttons and matching pants. Blue/white candy stripe only. Made in the USA. Currently $358 total.

Hickey Freeman has sold seersucker in the past and currently has an option for boys, but nothing for men. Made in USA.

There are others, but I haven't looked them all up.

pbc

 

[MrG]

Thanks for the input everyone. This sort of confirms what I suspected: There is some difference in quality. However, the difference isn't particularly profound, and you have to spend quite a bit more for a modest gain in quality. It's also questionable as to whether a cotton suit can be improved upon anyway.

Looks like I'm sticking with Haspel for the time being!

 

[Sebastian]

If you don't have to stick with the US makers you will find some high end seersucker stuff.

Recently the Italians are qute fond of them.
I saw them made by Canali, Pal Zileri, Cantarelli etc.

Surely, they are costly and they mostly sell jackets only, but the construction is great. And as a bonus many of them have 3 patch pockets, which is a plus in my book...

 

[phillyesq]

Originally Posted by MrG

The recent thread on pairing a seersucker coat made me realize it might be time for me to buy some new seersucker. In the past I've always tended toward Haspel, given it's sort of the old standby for seersucker. However, before I drop any cash on new stuff I thought I'd drag the SF waters to see if anyone has any opinions on various brands. I know there are other places that make seersucker clothing, but I'm curious as to members' opinions on the various manufacturers.

Some questions:

Is there such a thing as higher-quality seersucker clothing?

If you wear it, what maker of seersucker suits do you prefer?

Is the difference between, say, Haspel and higher-end seersucker suits as profound as it is for more formal suits (e.g. is it really worth spending more for something better)?

How do you like the Haspel? I'm on the verge of purchasing my first seersucker suit, and wanted to hear what you thought.

 

[MrG]

Originally Posted by phillyesq

How do you like the Haspel? I'm on the verge of purchasing my first seersucker suit, and wanted to hear what you thought.

You can't go wrong with Haspel. I believe they were the first to make seersucker suits, so they're actually designed to keep you cool, which is not the case with a lot of the more fashionable lines. They're not heavily lined like some others I've seen - the pants are completely unlined and the jacket is only lined in the sleeves/shoulders. To me, if you line much more than that you're defeating the purpose of seersucker. I wear it because I love the look, but I also want the comfort it provides. When it's 105 degrees here in August I want as little cloth on my body as possible.

Given you say this is your first seersucker suit I would have no reservations with Haspel. You might as well start with the orignal!

Also, it's relatively inexpensive. I ordered mine from esuit for $169.99, and they shipped it for free. STP had it for around $145 while I was looking, but they didn't have my size. If you're patient you can probably find it for ~$150, maybe less, but you can definitely find it for less than $200 pretty much all the time.

 

[Al_Merick]

What is the fit like with the Haspel suit? Classic? Slim? True to size with respect to cut(classic/slim)?

 

[rssmsvc]

The 2 I have seen that were the most interesting was Isaia has an AquaChino version of seersucker that wear very , very cool in the heat and in light rain the rain just runs off.

The second one I saw in a seersucker pattern was from Oxxford like 3 years ago , it was pure wool though and was one of the most elegant ensembles i have ever seen. I think the gentleman either brought his own material or had it special ordered.

 

[ArliHawk`]

I have a Joseph Abboud brown/tan seersucker I bought a few years ago. Made in the USA and has held up pretty well.

 

[MrG]

Originally Posted by Al_Merick

What is the fit like with the Haspel suit? Classic? Slim? True to size with respect to cut(classic/slim)?

It's a classic fit. It fits pretty true to size, but it seems a little slimmer in the chest/shoulders than other American suits. I don't feel like I need to size up, but I'm going to have the back let out more than usual (I always have 38 coats let out a little).

The rest of the coat is pretty generous. It's definitely not slim, but it's not ridiculous. I'm going to have it taken in, but I prefer my coats to fit pretty slim, so YMMV.

The only complaint I have is the shoulder padding/cut. They're a little boxy, but it's not so bad as to be a deal breaker.