Grail watch opportunity!

[GuidoWongolini]

My mobile rings..

I see the caller ID.. It's my dealer (watch)..

Usually I'm in regular enough for him not to call! So this means he has something for me!

He has a 2 month old Panerai 233 "J"... breath.. Jump in a cab!

I have been recently thinking about doing the shift from the 'welter weight' to 'middle weight' in watch collectibles, this means that I will have to fore go 2 (or 3) of my current rotation to make the initial "sunken cost".

So I have put my recently acquired B&R & SS IWC Inge for sale (though I should really keep the Inge as it has the in-house movt, but the Panda is such a sweet face).

If I was to sell the Panda, then the natural replacement would be the SS IWC Port Auto 5001..

But that is another sleepless night..

SPEAK SOME SENSE INTO ME!!!

Here is the 233 (not my pics so credit goes to?)

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Beautiful. I would certainly trade in the IWC and B&R for that PAM.

 

[whacked]

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

Beautiful. I would certainly trade in the IWC and B&R for that PAM.

What he said. Honestly I'm not a fan of either the Inge Auto or the Bell & Ross.

 

[TheFoo]

I'd stick with an in-house IWC and get a basic, ETA-powered Panerai. Since Panerai never made its own movements in the past, you'd be sticking to the strengths of each brand.

 

[PandArts]

Keep the Panda and get that Panerai.

 

[Notreknip]

Mostly a curiousity, but what would the asking price be for your "Panda"? PM me if you wish.

 

[GuidoWongolini]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

I'd stick with an in-house IWC and get a basic, ETA-powered Panerai. Since Panerai never made its own movements in the past, you'd be sticking to the strengths of each brand.
- but this 233 is their 1st in-house movt.. GMT, date, 8-10 day power reserve & manual..

Originally Posted by PandArts

Keep the Panda and get that Panerai.
- That is the short term plan, but the IWC 5001 or 5004 is the next natural step in the IWC food chain

 

[slycedbred]

Suggestion: Sell none, buy more !

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by Phat Guido

- but this 233 is their 1st in-house movt.. GMT, date, 8-10 day power reserve & manual.

I know, but it's arguably not consistent with the brand's historical character or strength.

 

[GuidoWongolini]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

I know, but it's arguably not consistent with the brand's historical character or strength.

Noted..

 

[bmulford]

the 233J is certainly more rare than the IWC, and may even appreciate above what you pay.

Hopefully you're getting it for $10-$11k in which case, I'd say keep the Panda and lose the others (from what I've seen you post, most are replaceable).

The 233J seems well within your style, although to my eye its been a little over rated as a timepeice.

 

[whacked]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

I'd stick with an in-house IWC and get a basic, ETA-powered Panerai. Since Panerai never made its own movements in the past, you'd be sticking to the strengths of each brand.

Originally Posted by mafoofan

I know, but it's arguably not consistent with the brand's historical character or strength.

Never thought of the day when you refer to not making in-house movement as a "strength".

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by whacked

Never thought of the day when you refer to not making in-house movement as a "strength".

I normally wouldn't, but Panerais are nicer design pieces than they are watches. As the latter, they are very overpriced. From what I know, most of the work that went into developing the 233's movement was actually culled from Jaeger LeCoultre--an 8-day Reverso is much cheaper than the 233.

 

[timeless]

What about the size issue...you said you have a 6.5 inch wrist and both B&R and the Panda are about 42mm....at 44mm the GMT is a much larger heavier watch.

I also have a 6.5" wrist and have a 40mm Luminor as well as 42mm Radiomir but found the 44mm panny like a suitcase on my arm!

 

[LeatherSOUL]

I've also recently liquidated my collection because I got "the call" from my AD for my holy grail watch. My advice would be to get what you truly want and like. But, don't forget about wearability. If you are liquidating important aspects of your daily wear, I'd try to keep what you can to cover the bases.

Watches are like drugs though, you always say it's the last one but it never is. I thought my holy grail would be my last watch, but I've already bought another watch about a month after buying my holy grail.