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Fit advice on two sport jackets

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Hey, sorry to bug you once more... been percolating on this for a while, and would like some more feedback if you're in the mood :)

I agree with you overall---the jacket just looks "off" on me. However, I'm trying to figure out the big picture things I need to look for in future jackets to avoid this issue. The things I've come up with (besides sleeve length, which is trivial, and always impacts me since I have very short arms) are

1) Length. This jacket is at least an inch too short, possibly more (although if it's more than an inch too short I'm going to basically never find an OTR fit that works on me, since after perusing many, many brands I find it hard to find a jacket around my size that's more than an inch longer than this OTR)

2) Shoulders are probably too narrow. I think I have relatively wide hips and probably could go for wider shoulders to offset that. Given that I have pretty sloping shoulders this might require me to look into more padded shoulders

I've also got a couple of thoughts on things that are more details that could be tailored, mostly just trying to separate it out from the unfixable things:

3) Something is off about the chest-to-waist ratio here. This is possibly tailorable on this jacket---maybe it needs a bit more space in the chest and a bit less space in the waist?

4) Maybe sleeve width? It's a little hard to tell how much of this is confounded with the sleeves just being too long, but I have pretty skinny wrists so it might be worth having more tapered sleeves. Again, this is tailorable, so nbd if I can find a jacket that fits better otherwise.

It seems like probably issue #1 is the most important---in my minds eye this jacket looks a lot better if you make it ~an inch longer (and correspondingly move the button stance and pockets down obviously).
I think the sleeve width is fine.

The chest on a jacket can't be widened. There's typically no seam allowance in there, and it's also made of a few things, including a chest piece constructed from haircloth. The chest piece will not have seam allowance.

I agree you would look better in a longer jacket and a slightly more extended shoulder.

Mark at The Armoury has a video where he puts on a short jacket with a narrow shoulder, and then a longer jacket. You can see the effect here. I think he looks best in the Model 3. The 184 is slimmer, narrower around the shoulders, and shorter.

 

schraiber

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I think the sleeve width is fine.

The chest on a jacket can't be widened. There's typically no seam allowance in there, and it's also made of a few things, including a chest piece constructed from haircloth. The chest piece will not have seam allowance.

I agree you would look better in a longer jacket and a slightly more extended shoulder.

Mark at The Armoury has a video where he puts on a short jacket with a narrow shoulder, and then a longer jacket. You can see the effect here. I think he looks best in the Model 3. The 184 is slimmer, narrower around the shoulders, and shorter.

Thanks for the input, it's super useful.

That video was interesting, I agree with you that Mark looks the best in the Model 3 for sure, although the size 50 184 isn't too bad on him to my eye.
 

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