Fit advice for my dress shirt

[Grevenbroich]

Dear gents

I am happy to now being an active part of this wonserdul forum.

So would you help me please by answering my question?

The fit of this shirt is not good. One thing is that the arms are too long.

But what ist the problem with the torso? Is the shirt too wide? Is it too long? What to chance for a good fit?

Thanks for your Help!
GrevenvGreve

 

[thomas_finney]

Hey Greven! It's hard to judge from this image... from what I can see the shirt is not a bad fit. It would be easier to address any issues if we could see an image wearing the shirt untucked from straight on and with your hands at your sides. If you can send I'd be happy to take another look!

THOMAS FINNEY
www.thomasfinney.com
@thomas_finney

 

[Grevenbroich]

Dear Thomas,

thanks for your help.
I made some more pictures (other shirt but same size and fit). Hope these pictures will help you judging its fit.

Thanks a lot
Greve

(PS: I plan on reducing the length of the arms by 5 cm or is 3 the better option?)

 

[thomas_finney]

Dear Thomas,

thanks for your help.
I made some more pictures (other shirt but same size and fit). Hope these pictures will help you judging its fit.

Thanks a lot
Greve

(PS: I plan on reducing the length of the arms by 5 cm or is 3 the better option?)

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Hey Greve thanks for the new images. You're right the sleeves need to be shortened - not sure what the measurement will be but its best to have them stop in the groove where your wrist meets your hand. Your point to point is spot on, and the chest and waist don't seem to be too bad. However, the seat is too small, which is causing the entire shirt to pull and ride up a bit. This is why you are seeing wrinkling and folding all the way up the torso.... unfortunately this is not a correction that can be made by a tailor without adding some fabric (like a gusset at the sideseam). Based on your proportions and fit issues you are a great candidate for custom... and if you're in the habit of tailoring your shirts custom is a better place to spend your money... Hope this helps!

 

[Grevenbroich]

Thomas,

thats awesome. Thanks for your knowledgable answer!
So did I get it right by saying that (in essence) my shirt is too short and thus it rides up while moving?
Sorry but I did not really get the expression "the seat" right. That's the problem of not being a native speaker

I am just asking because I have a lot of shirt which are much shorter but do not show these wrinkles. And this(!) really makes me thinking that I may have missinterpreted your help.

(I got all the other aspect of your assesment. Thanks!)

 

[thomas_finney]

Thomas,

thats awesome. Thanks for your knowledgable answer!
So did I get it right by saying that (in essence) my shirt is too short and thus it rides up while moving?
Sorry but I did not really get the expression "the seat" right. That's the problem of not being a native speaker

I am just asking because I have a lot of shirt which are much shorter but do not show these wrinkles. And this(!) really makes me thinking that I may have missinterpreted your help.

(I got all the other aspect of your assesment. Thanks!)

Hey Greven, no problem! In layman's, the seat refers to the width of the shirt around your butt... your butt is too big for that shirt.

 

[Anachronist]

Hi Grevenbroich (taking from your name, I assume your a fellow countryman ) and welcome to SF!

When chosing a short, I recommend going by the following rough rules of thumb:
- sleeve length: when wearing the short, bend your arm to a right angle in front of your chest. The sleeve should still cover your wrist up to wear your hand starts (where it gets wider). Always put on a jacket over it (if you don't have one along, try on a fitting! jacket from the shop) and make sure that with arms hanging relaxed by your sides, the shirt protrudes no more than 1 to max 1,5 cm from beneath the jacket cuff.
- body fit: the shirt body should fit close to your body and not bunch significantly either in the front or back, especially when you tuck it into your trousers (it will always bunch a bit because you need the room for movement or it will gape open especially in the stomach area when you sit down). A good test is pulling it by a button away from your chest or belly; you should have about 5-6cm of room (distance shirt fabric to body)
- collar: even if you don't intend to wear the shirt buttoned to the top, e.g. with a tie, close the top button. It should fit snugly (no significant room) but not tight, i.e. it shouldn't feel like it constrains your breathing or head movements. Sometimes you'll read things about being able to still put one or two fingers between collar and neck, but I don't believe in this test as a neck is so soft especially around the throat that this is a very unreliable guide. The test is in wearing a tie... if the collar bunches when you pull it tight, it's too large.

Hope that helps a bit

 

[thomas_finney]

Thomas,

thats awesome. Thanks for your knowledgable answer!
So did I get it right by saying that (in essence) my shirt is too short and thus it rides up while moving?
Sorry but I did not really get the expression "the seat" right. That's the problem of not being a native speaker

I am just asking because I have a lot of shirt which are much shorter but do not show these wrinkles. And this(!) really makes me thinking that I may have missinterpreted your help.

(I got all the other aspect of your assesment. Thanks!)

Hey Greven. Styleforum purposefully and wrongly deleted my reply to you... sorry they've done this. "seat" refers to the measurement of the circumference around your butt.

 

[Grevenbroich]

Thomas, thanks a lot for your help.
It was really strange to not see your answers any more. But I now know what you mean.

Also a big thanks to you, Anachronist.
And yes, I am a fellow countryman. Thanks for your warm welcome and the interesting facts about a well fitting suite.
I'll keep on looking for a nice dress shirt, I'll promise