Feedback on first bespoke suit?

[thesupremegrape]

Bought this bespoke suit.

It is my first nice suit, so I did a lot of research before hand. It is fully canvassed in a charcoal grey Scabal worsted wool fabric (roughly super 90 so not the finest but durable). I chose a cheaper fabric as this was my first time working with this tailor.
Things the tailor told me (I'm not sure whether it's all true because I don't know what the things look like, but it comes from a reputable tailor shop): It is fully canvassed (I verified this), hand pick-stitching (I chose to use the same colour to keep it minimilaistic), peak lapel (I initially wanted a sharper peak, but I think this is flatter peak is more of the tailor's house style), functional button holes, milanese button hole, bemberg lining.



All in all the suit cost me about $750, which seems very cheap to me (about $500 for the tailoring and $250 for the fabric which I purchased myself)
Can you guys give me any thoughts about pros and cons of it. Overall, I am pretty happy with it. There is some light pulling, but I think it's not as noticeable as in the photos. I'm looknig for feedback so I know whether or not to commision another suit and what to improve upon in the future.

 

[dieworkwear]

It's not bad for $750. If you're a young guy, I can see that working for various functions, like going to get drinks or going to work (whenever that happens again).

If it were me, I would lengthen the jacket a little and widen the legs. As is, the jacket looks a bit short to me, although some guys like that kind of thing. I think your build supports a short jacket. But I think you would look better in a longer jacket. It would come off as more elegant, and short jackets in 2020 look a bit dated anyway.

Mark Cho at The Armoury recently posted some videos on both of these issues. I think he does a good job explaining these concepts.

Before commissioning another suit, I would wear that for a while and see how you like the silhouette.

The sleeves on your coat also look like they need to be pressed. A bit of shirt cuff should show on the right sleeve, but maybe your shirt just got caught up in there. The back of your trousers looks like it could be cleaned up.

 

[thesupremegrape]

It's not bad for $750. If you're a young guy, I can see that working for various functions, like going to get drinks or going to work (whenever that happens again).

If it were me, I would lengthen the jacket a little and widen the legs. As is, the jacket looks a bit short to me, although some guys like that kind of thing. I think your build supports a short jacket. But I think you would look better in a longer jacket. It would come off as more elegant, and short jackets in 2020 look a bit dated anyway.

Mark Cho at The Armoury recently posted some videos on both of these issues. I think he does a good job explaining these concepts.

Before commissioning another suit, I would wear that for a while and see how you like the silhouette.

The sleeves on your coat also look like they need to be pressed. A bit of shirt cuff should show on the right sleeve, but maybe your shirt just got caught up in there. The back of your trousers looks like it could be cleaned up.

Thanks for the feedback! Yes, I am young so that's good to hear. Initially I did want a slightly longer jacket but I let the tailor talk me out of it, which I do regret slightly. I'll watch the armoury video to learn about a better jacket length. Could you give me a rough idea of what you think would be the correct length for my build? When you say you would lengthen the jacket, you mean for the next suit right? (I'm assuming you can't lengthen it now).

As for the trousers, I was quite happy with the fitting, but I'll also watch the armoury video for future reference.

Yes good point, I only plan on comissioning another one in a few months or so. Also for the right sleeve, the cuff usually shows, it just didn't appear in the photos

 

[dieworkwear]

Thanks for the feedback! Yes, I am young so that's good to hear. Initially I did want a slightly longer jacket but I let the tailor talk me out of it, which I do regret slightly. I'll watch the armoury video to learn about a better jacket length. Could you give me a rough idea of what you think would be the correct length for my build? When you say you would lengthen the jacket, you mean for the next suit right? (I'm assuming you can't lengthen it now).

As for the trousers, I was quite happy with the fitting, but I'll also watch the armoury video for future reference.

Yes good point, I only plan on comissioning another one in a few months or so. Also for the right sleeve, the cuff usually shows, it just didn't appear in the photos

You can't lengthen the jacket in a way that would matter now. If you lengthened it the amount you'd need for a classic fit, the distance between your buttoning point and buttons would look oddly long when compared to the hem (assuming there's even material there to let out).

Roughly, a jacket should bisect you halfway from your collar to the floor. That means the hem should be at the halfway point. Mark explains this in the video.

The best thing is to develop an eye. Sometimes a jacket can look better when it's slightly shorter. It depends on the silhouette. Ultimately, it's about the look and not rules. But a good rule of thumb is to go halfway.

Your jacket is shorter than what would be considered "classic." For $750, I don't think it's a bad suit. I think you can wear it for the functions that require a suit. But stylistically, I would have preferred a longer jacket and fuller trousers.

 

[thesupremegrape]

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[thesupremegrape]

You can't lengthen the jacket in a way that would matter now. If you lengthened it the amount you'd need for a classic fit, the distance between your buttoning point and buttons would look oddly long when compared to the hem (assuming there's even material there to let out).

Roughly, a jacket should bisect you halfway from your collar to the floor. That means the hem should be at the halfway point. Mark explains this in the video.

The best thing is to develop an eye. Sometimes a jacket can look better when it's slightly shorter. It depends on the silhouette. Ultimately, it's about the look and not rules. But a good rule of thumb is to go halfway.

Your jacket is shorter than what would be considered "classic." For $750, I don't think it's a bad suit. I think you can wear it for the functions that require a suit. But stylistically, I would have preferred a longer jacket and fuller trousers.

Thank you! I mentioned the halfway thing to the shop (not directly to the tailor but to the person who was helping me choose the details), but he thought that would be too long. That discouraged me from going from the inital longer design I suggested. I am still very happy with the suit overall but it's very useful to know this for future reference!

 

[Phileas Fogg]

I think it looks fine. For $750 you did really well.

you’re young and your in good shape. I like the jacket length as it covers your butt. The cut highlights your body. The leg and thigh are narrow but they seem to work for you as there is still drape.

my only concern is a bit of pulling at the waist as seen in the back. Whether this is just too much suppression or the jacket needs a good press, I don’t know. If you can discuss that with the tailor and have him resolve it then you’ve got a winner.

 

[Wild Strawberry Rabbit]

Besides waist issue mentioned by @Phileas Fogg I think that also shoulder line on the left side is not ideal and I would ask if it is possible to correct it. But anyway suit looks really nice for 750 USD. Good value for money.

 

[thesupremegrape]

I think it looks fine. For $750 you did really well.

you’re young and your in good shape. I like the jacket length as it covers your butt. The cut highlights your body. The leg and thigh are narrow but they seem to work for you as there is still drape.

my only concern is a bit of pulling at the waist as seen in the back. Whether this is just too much suppression or the jacket needs a good press, I don’t know. If you can discuss that with the tailor and have him resolve it then you’ve got a winner.

Thanks for the feedback!

I don't think the tailor can do anything at this point since the suit is already complete, but I will definitely keep that in mind for future suits.

I did notice this pulling but it seemed to be less noticeable in person. I asked the tailor if anything could be done, but he said that would ruin the silhouette as the supression would change, and this may cause pulling in other regions. I'll definitely keep an eye out to ensure its better in future suits though

 

[thesupremegrape]

Besides waist issue mentioned by @Phileas Fogg I think that also shoulder line on the left side is not ideal and I would ask if it is possible to correct it. But anyway suit looks really nice for 750 USD. Good value for money.
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Good spot. I could tell something was slightly off on the shoulders but couldn't quite place my finger on it. I'll try talking to the tailor, but I think chances are it's too late now (I've already done 3 fittings) and I remember the tailor telling me the shoulder can't be changed significantly after the basted fitting.

 

[thesupremegrape]

I think it looks fine. For $750 you did really well.

you’re young and your in good shape. I like the jacket length as it covers your butt. The cut highlights your body. The leg and thigh are narrow but they seem to work for you as there is still drape.

my only concern is a bit of pulling at the waist as seen in the back. Whether this is just too much suppression or the jacket needs a good press, I don’t know. If you can discuss that with the tailor and have him resolve it then you’ve got a winner.

Could you explain what you mean by "there is still drape"?

 

[Wild Strawberry Rabbit]

Good spot. I could tell something was slightly off on the shoulders but couldn't quite place my finger on it. I'll try talking to the tailor, but I think chances are it's too late now (I've already done 3 fittings).

Maybe it’s not too late, depends on the tailor I guess. For example if I won’t spot an issue with my commission when receiving it or an issue will appear only after a few wears I can still go to my tailor and he will still correct it for free.

 

[thesupremegrape]

Maybe it’s not too late, depends on the tailor I guess. For example if I won’t spot an issue with my commission when receiving it or an issue will appear only after a few wears I can still go to my tailor and he will still correct it for free.

Ah that's interesting, I'll send him a message and see if anything can be done!

 

[dieworkwear]

Ah that's interesting, I'll send him a message and see if anything can be done!

If it were me, I would have him clean up the back of the trousers before asking for other alterations. IMO, the back of the trousers is the more obvious issue.

In the past, I've had that issue corrected by shortening the back rise and letting out the crotch. But I'm not a tailor and would leave it up to whoever you're working with.

 

[thesupremegrape]

If it were me, I would have him clean up the back of the trousers before asking for other alterations. IMO, the back of the trousers is the more obvious issue.

In the past, I've had that issue corrected by shortening the back rise and letting out the crotch. But I'm not a tailor and would leave it up to whoever you're working with.

I pointed out the puddling in the final fitting and he said he could correct it, but this may cause pulling/puddling in another area. Is this worth the risk?